I just changed mine in a Carry 92 with coils from Summit at 34.00 each and used straping machine to shorten spring length until I get them in place. Cut the strap and pulled them out what a difference in the ride ausome. I used 275lb. and 300lbs. as I am big and i plan to add asnow plow later.
There was some speculation as to why you would put two different sized coils, I assume this is to balance the truck to keep it level?, always nice when you plow.
Thanks to this post I no longer need to dread bumps in the road. I used 10" 250# springs 2 1/2 inside daimeter ,a tad tighter than the 2 5/8 but it was all I could find locally,and they fit fine over the dustboots. Rides like a different vehicle and no more bottoming..hats off to Greg
Thanks alot! I know some have had different experiences with the springs (Good and Bad). Mostly because of a different model truck. I've seen where some vendors sell the springs for 3-4x the amount of the cost of the springs. My intent was to share this info/my experience for all and not try to make any money in the process. I'm glad to hear it worked well for you. -Greg
I think I used 225# springs, AFCoils, got them from AFCO racing springs, cost me about 60 bucks each, $150 for the pair by the time I got them up here in Canada, just about a whole new vehicle when installed. I noticed the old springs had flatened on the bottoms and tops from hitting hard, so often. I have considered removing the 2 inch lift kit, as the new springs gained me about an inch and a half rise., you would still need to lift the rear a bit, to have the right stance.
Any one know the Spring rates for a 96 Carry? First post on this site, must say great source info and reading here and what a blast these trucks are, been thinking about one of these now for two years and finally decided it was time to buy one. As I'm know the owner of my first 96 Suzuki Carry, I am going to install a blackline plow and Snow Ex mini salt spreader to the rear. I'll be using this at a subdivision we maintain in the winter. So after reading this post I wasn't sure if anyone has the spring rates for 96 Carry, so this way I can figure out which springs to purchase, Just slightly stiffer is all I would be interested in, so as to accommodate the plows weight. Any one have any info on the Carry as far as springs rates and ID size are concerned? Thanks - sorry for the long post.
Here's a link to a carry specific install. Thanks to cmaxxer. http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=4015 It may help you on your quest.
I think I have maybe possibly sort of settled on installing 225# springs. I weigh 175lb my wife weighs 110. Only a portable winch and front bumper/brush guard and tool chest in bed behind cab. Any comments? Should I use the 250# springs? For those that are looking for 275# springs, try here. Great price--$37.00. By the way, I already contacted them and the 225# and 250# are the usually found $60.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K:MEWAX:IT
Aero - 225 will work Aero, I put in 250# on my stock 1992 Carry. Made a huge difference. The originals made for a mushy tippy ride. If I could do it again I would go 225#. Don't get wrong, the ride is great. Very comfortable and stable. Mine may be topping out every great once in a while.
Change out Front end Struts and Springs Has anyone changed out the front end struts. I am having trouble seeing how to release the strut from the bottom connections.
Two bolts hold the strut to the spindle on the bottom. One nut (to remove the spring) or three bolts (to remove the assembly) on the top under the seat. And one bolt that holds the brake line to the strut.
I found that there is a very snug fit between the strut and the rest of the wheel mount, after removing the two bolts I used a dead blow hammer to tap it lightly back and forth, once you break the paint seal, it comes easy.
I got my springs from AFC racing springs, don't remember the address, they were 10 inches long, identical to the old Daihatsu ones, I only measured the lift from them when not sitting in the machine, it was about 1 3/4 inches, I already had a two inch lift kit installed, but it alone didn't solve the bottoming out problem, the new springs did. The only negative affect I found was that at about 40 MPH, on rolling pavement, it tends to wallow a bit, but then that's over the towns speed limit.
Groz, what lbs. springs did you use? After installing atv tires every truck Ive been in has a death wobble around 40/50 mph.
I put 225# springs in my Daihatsu, I have 14 inch Bridgstone wheels and radial M&S tires, rated for highway use, I wouldn't say it has a death wobble, just that I notice it squirming a bit. If you licence your mini for highway use, you are not allowed ATV tires, as they are not rated for highway use in Canada. I notice the wobble on Municiple streets as they tend to be rougher than the highways, two different Governments. I had no trouble maintaining 50MPH on the highway, and didn't feel insecure.
I just installed 225 springs in my 97 suki. Repacked inner and outer wheel bearings, repacked cv joints in and out. Removed and replaced bad dust boots on tie rod ends. Still need to get extended wheel studs pressed into the hubs before I can put them in. When removing the hubs using a torque wrench to remove, one took 130 in lb and the other took 35 in lb to remove. I read somewhere here that 133 in lb is the specified torque setting???? Can anyone confirm that? Now, off to find a kind sole with a press
Measuring torque specs... when you loosen bolts is NOT an accurate way to determine the proper torque for any fastener. It can actually damage your torque wrench. A torque wrench is only meant to accurately measure "applied torque" not "breaking torque". Get your torque spec from a trusted source, never rely on breaking torque. z
CV boots Greg Thanks I am also changing out the CV boots on the Shaft. I am not able to get the shaft off. I pulled the shaft and the internal shaft want to come our the driive shaft. Is there a retainer ring that holds the spline part in or what is the best way to take it off.
To take the CV axle out there should be a nut on the outside center of the hub at the spindle end. After you remove the nut you need a press to push the splined section out of the hub. On the differential end of the CV axle there is a pressure clip on the end of the shaft that holds the splined section in place. The clip is not meant to be removed to remove the stub shaft. Use a prybar between the diff housing and the stub shaft to pop it free from the diff housing (I have better luck trying to pop it out rather than prying it out i.e. quick spurts of leverage on the prybar). Thats the way it was on my 99. There may be a circlip on the inside of the diff that must be removed from the end of the stub shaft before it can be removed on older models. If it doesn't pop out with moderate effort using the prybar method then you might need to look inside the diff.
CV boot Greg When I pull the spline shaft came out of the partially out of diff. If I take it all the way out will it be a problem to put it back it?
Zardoz, Thanks for your input. Correction to my post--should have read "lb ft". But in any case. Your point is well taken reference removal torque. This why I used an old dial guage torque wrench just to get an idea of the torque. I do not know if the torque spec is 25 lb or 250 lb. My discovery of a great difference between sides does not help any. A reliable source of this information--well, that is why I posted here. Any reliable torque specs for the front spindle nuts anyone would share with me? Thanks
I just had a look at my Daihatsu shop manual, and they give detailed instructions for front wheel replacement, First put it all together, and tighten up the nuts to 19 to 23Ft lb's, then slacken them off till finger tight, then hook a spring balance(fish scale) to one of the lug bolts, it should take about 4 to 7 lbs pull to turn the wheel. that's your pre-load, then you can do up the nuts to regular torque, as above. now remmeber that I am not a mechanic, and these figures are for a Daihatsu. so maybe toss these around with the rest of the guys and see what they say.
I was only parroting what it said in the book, personally I don't think it was nessesary to Check the pre-load either, but the Japanese do things differently.
