I have a connect rod knock and will be overhauling my F6A engine. I will be taking lots of pictures and posting them for all to see. While I have the truck in my shop, I will be doing a 2" lift and adding a Dump bed. I will be designing and building the dump mechanism my self. I already have the bed removed from the truck and most of the engine ready to remove.
... We'll see, It is Sooo difficult to find the man in the "KNOW". F6A敏感マスタ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0kOXPZs9n8&playnext=1&list=PL77EE87089EA334C3&feature=results_video Maybe he can help you, maybe not. ...
I'd just go with a T660, BUT, maybe heads off the K6a... Let's just see what you can make of the AU, guys... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyGP8VbLQPI ...
spaner thanks for the video's. Not interested in making a racing motor out of this. This is my farm work horse. Need to get it back on the road ASAP. Did get the motor out last night. should have it torn down this weekend. More to come
Ho, ok, just repairing. Check this then; http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?15089-Suzuki-carry-transmission-for-sale
Updates to overhaul All, Got the engine out and oil pan removed and sure enought the rear rod was knocking. Tips on removing the engine. Don't for get to remove the chasie ground wires and filter housing. I missed those two items when removing my engine. Method I used to remove engine 1) removed bed (better access to every thing (2 hours) 2) drain fluids 3) removed all cables, hoses, and electrical connections 4) support engine and tranny with blocks and floor jack 5) removed 2 bolt for tranny cross member 6) removed 4 bolts for engine cross member 7) lower engine to shop floor 8) Lift front of truck off shop floor 9) slide engine from out under the truck Total time 5 hours Here are some pictures
That's not that bad, http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-CARRY-DB51T-AND-DD51T-ENGINE-ROD-BEARINGS-STD-25MM-/150801498116
I have some that are less (these are f5a but I can get you f6a bearings), as well as pistons, rings, valves, etc...complete overhaul gasket kit too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Carr...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item27cd6c02f6&vxp=mtr
Not too bad, and he's in TX, so... Should be OK, but I'm going to POKE you again, just because... If you can get 50thou overs for less than 45 bucks... Well, I just might get a set; just for incase... Doable?
Spaner, std, .25 and .50 under size crank bearings at $45 all day long, not a problem. Just let me know, not to step on any other vendor's toes at all. Just want us to be able to afford to drive and maintain these guys. Thanks, Dan
All, got the engine finally torn down. Engine is in good condition. jusj need to replance the crank. got on coming. Here is pic of the cam and head
We were talking about rod-end-bearings though right? 50thou over, more bearing, less mounting? Wouldn't the world just be a great place if the mains AND the rods were actually the same bearings...wow... Naw, naw, we can't do that...that would just make too much sense. Just can't do it.
ALL, Parts on order. Got the new crank already. As soon as I get the all the other parts I will be heading to a Automotive machine shop to have all the parts cleaned. Then I will have them reassemble the block for me as I don't all the tools.
Just finished doing the samething to my engine, got it installed yesterday. Having a hell of a time finding out what the firing order is on the cylinders. You wouldn't have marked down or know what it is by anychance? is it 1,3,2 or 1,2,3 Thanks
Yah I thought it would be in my manual so I didn't pay any attention to it when I took it apart. Searched all the post and looked into google and can't find it anywhere. Just talked to a buddy and he's going to check it out on his truck when he gets to the cabin but that might be a couple days, but I'll let you know if you don't figure it out by then.
If it's clockwise rotation it's 132 if it's counter clockwise its 123 I can't remember right now which way it turns. should be easy to check.
Update for all Engine is in the shop. Found out I need .5 mm oversize pistons and rings. Machine shop says the rest is good. New Pistons have been ordered I got the CV joints overhauled a couple weeks ago. Cost $100 + cost of new boots. Nice a stiff now. I have not had a change to put them back in. While I am at I am going to add 1" spaces between the frame and front end to help the CV joint angles. I should have Motor back in about a month more then
I have a stupid question here, Is the the #1 cylinder the first one toward the front of the motor? When getting an engine to TDC is that the cylinder im working with? Also Jim, when you say clockwise vs counter clockwise im assuming your talking about the distributor rotor, is that correct? Thanks in advance.
#1 is the front cylinder and clockwise is the direction of the rotor so the firing order is 132.There are no stupid questions as long as you're being honest.The best way to get to TDC is look at the timing marks on the flywheel through the hole on top of the bell housing then be sure the rotor is pointing at #1 wire of the cap as it's possible to be 180 off.When you rotate your engine by hand turn it clockwise with the crankshaft pulley
Also make sure when your on the mark that your #1 cylinder is in its compression stroke ( i normaly take the spak plug out and check with my finger )
im assuming that when you say compression stroke you are making reference to what Jim mentioned about being 180 degrees out. Is that correct? If the timing mark on the flywheel line up and the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder could that not be TDC? I don't know
If everything is setup right, then yes, but it is not a solution to FIND the correct setup. Take just changing the cap & rotor...guys get lost, and don't think that you CAN experiment without causing damage. With mine right now, the cap goes on 2-ways, and the rotor goes on 3-ways. Then you have..depending on what's been messed with.. Dizzy adjustment, bolt-in-notch, Dizzy gear mesh, Cam pulley to crank alignment vs belt tension. The old ways are best in this case, I think. #1 to TDC with a stick in the hole, THEN look for an alignment mark on the front to confirm what you know IS. Cam should be in the compaction cycle, ready to ignite, that means the #1 valves are closed, slop in the 4-front rockers. This is where you could be one rotation of the CRANK out, just go down and back up again on the piston. If the belt is off, you don't turn nothing, if you're building an engine, you do this before you bolt the head on. If you're taking a head off, you do this first. Pay attention to the confusion of firing order as well with this engine. It's done in a static condition, so, it don't matter which way the dizzy spins vs which way the engine spins etc. With the above all setup, Install the rotor and cap, so that rotor is under "one of" the pols. That's #1. Clockwise(while looking at the three cap poles), the next is #3, and then #2. Some would say that the firing order is 1, 3, 2. Even that's too hard for me to remember. It's 3, 2, 1..or if you prefer anti-clockwise, then it's 1, 2, 3...Dho, now I've confused everybody again...
Yes Hatch, your are right, if your are on the TDC mark and your rotor point to #1cylinder you shoud be on the compression stroke(ready to spark) the reason i use my finger to feel the compression, is because sometime whith the valve cover on You dont see the position of the valves(closed) Remember that you can be on the TDC mark and be on the exhaust stroke. If you did not removed the distributor You dont have to worry about all the possible configuration. Good luck!