Ta Da! See link ---->>> http://www.tciauto.com/Products/SportCompact/ Scroll down to Honda Drag Racing Spools a lot pricey though found it cheaper here --->> http://www.eraceparts.com/categoryc3a4.html or http://www.circuitworx.com/products.html# same price different brand or cheaper yet ---->>>> http://performance.yoparts.com/Store/Product/ItmGroupDetail.aspx?GroupId=53988&Make=HONDA If I keep at this long enough you will get it for free
you would have to find a "balance" shop. i used to send my cranks to the machine shop then out to a different shop for balance. crank, rods, pistons and flywheel was usually about 75 bucks... that was about 6 or 7 years ago tho
I'll let you off the hook. I think I'll just get some brackets from these guys. Maybe some rod ends as well. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/All-brackets-_c_34.html -Greg
i've spent cubic dollars with these guys probably about the same quality it's all lazer cut too, just gives you an option for shopping the price.
I'm kind of thinking about undertaking a project like this with my Sambar, too... I want to use the turbodiesel out of a Japanese or European-model Toyota Previa/Estima/Emina... I figure it's a decent donor since they last forever, the engine is already configured to lie on its side under the floorpan, and there's a native AWD (albeit automatic ) transmission setup. Unfortunately, it looks like I'd have to lengthen the truck by several inches to make everything fit... Colin
Do it! I just picked up my motor and trans tonight. Honda 1.6L VTEC 4 speed auto trans out of a 99 Civic 60k miles. I also got the wiring harness to the ECU and the axles. For the most part is was complete minus a starter, speed sensor, exhaust manifold, ECU, and distributor. I think it should work well. I'll post pics of the setup later when I get some help getting it out of the truck. Here's some specs on the engine. Displacement : 1,590 cc (97 cu in) Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in) Compression : 9.6:1 D16Y8 1.6 16V SOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1590 127 hp@6600 rpm 108Nm@5500 rpm Head Code : P2J Piston Code : P2P Redline 6900 rpm ECU Code : P2P -Greg
Cool. The other possibility I was considering was a Volkswagen diesel - either a 1.9TDI or an older 1.6 or 1.9. They make adapter kits to put them in a Samurai or Sidekick, so setting one up for RWD or 4WD with a longitudinal mount wouldn't be too bad. They sit upright, though... so you'd almost have to build a giant body lift to make everything fit. Colin
Yeah, the height of the engine is going to be a tough obstacle. I took some measurements awhile back to compare engine heights and the difference was approx 4-6 inches, not too bad, I'm thinking about doing a hump in the bed instead of raising it if I can. I'll have to decide whats best when the time comes. -Greg
Here's some pictures of the engine/tranny and axles. This thing is going to be a beast. Acorrding to the freight paperwork the axles weigh 575lbs . From the looks of it they should be strong enough to hold up to the abuse I will give them, even if they are only Dana 30's. -Greg
Ha, Ha, Ha..... I know, its not like they're 12" rotors or anything. Funny they're nearly the same size as the stock wheels. I wonder what I'm gonna have to replace the master cylinder with in order to get them to work. Its bad enough that the auto tranny has a gear position cable, and I also have to wire the ECU to tell it what position its in. All Electronic...WHAT FUN! What did I get myself into! LOL -Greg
when working with a master cylinder it's easier to do when running drums... but just to give you and example think of a bicycle. when you have a big gear up front and a little gear in the back it's hard to pedal. same goes for the hydraulic systems. if you have a 22mm master and little 17mm slave cylinders it's a lot of foot pressure but little travel. when you reverse it to a 17mm master and big 22mm slaves you get a long stroke at the pedal and it feels almost like you have a power assist. i have no idea how to figure that with disk brakes, but just thought i would throw that random bit of knowledge out there =)
I kow what you mean. I figure the master is going to be too small for the huge slaves and the pedal will bottom out before I get any pressure to the disks. I'll have to figure that one out when I get there. The biggest problem I have right now is trying to figure out how to hook up the auto trans shifter cable (which I believe is going to be too short) and wiring the shift position to the ECU. Why Honda did this, I do not know but its going to be a PITA. One thing I found interesting about Honda auto transmissions is that they are unusual in that they do not use planetary gears like nearly all other makers, instead they use traditional sliding gears in parallel like a manual transmission. Supposedly this is b/c of patents held by companies like Borg-Warner. I could still use a manual trans but Hondas have a direct linkage instead of cable operated shift so I figure it will be equally difficult to install and besides that if I did a manual trans I would need to install line locks on the brakes b/c of no park gear. Thanks for the input! -Greg
Greg, For the cable on the on the shifter: Couldn't you run the stock cable to a convenient place and then use a 1:1 bellcrank to link up to a cable of your choice? The bellcrank could be any shape that works [I, L] for you plus it would be easy to link to different cables this way. Just a thought
Yeah, I was thinking some sort of bellcrank or custom cable setup. I'm going to set it on the back burner for now. Meanwhile, I got one of the axles broken down, and started media blasting the knuckles, brake calipers and misc brackets. I'm going to replace the seals, gaskets, ball joints, u-joints, re-grease, and fresh fluid and let everything else go as is on the axles. Hopefully I can get the axle tubes swaped on the rear axle and all the parts back together soon so I can start on the 4-link. I'll post some pics of the progress. -Greg
found a good site that might be of use to you in getting the driveshafts... looks like woody's makes everything
Cool! I was actually looking at that site last week. I've also got a reputable place here in town that I will probably have price it out as well. Thanks, Greg
Here's some more work I've been doing in my "Chop Shop" Its kind of hard to sneak out and get anything done with the little one here. Rear Axle Chopped. Spare Parts. JK
Going back to this... I was looking at the Honda manual today and It looks like the cable is only for the park detent. So I'm thinking maybe I can get away with connecting the parking brake lever to the tranny with a custom cable for park and some sort of switch bank of something for the gears. Seems kind of weird but it kind of makes sense. -Greg
that makes sense, but i think i might go for some kind of button rather than switches. it will be easier to push a button that try to turn off one switch and turn another on. you need to set up a sequential "flappy paddle" gear shift on the steering wheel
Just found this link to the build! That is going to be a sweet rig once you get all of the details worked out. I wish I lived closer, I would help! Although I'm probably not as much help as Milt and the others!
Yeah, It would be nice to have someone give a hand every now and then. Although... Usually when that happens here it becomes a beer bash and nothing gets done. Thanks for the encouragement though. I can't wait to get it done. This is a pretty cool project. I've got a lot to learn and figure out. Been doing alot of research and I figure when I'm done its gonna have cost me quite a bit of money and alot of bit of time. I've already got 2 g's into it and all I have is a pile of parts, a couple lockers and Superwinch hubs. Its worth it though. By the time I'm done I'll still have less in it than if I would have bought a Ranger Razer or Yamaha Rhino. I got one of the lockers in yesterday, a first for me. Very simple to install. IMO Even though the Richmond locker is considered a excellent locker for off-road I can see the value in spending the extra money on a Detroit locker for a daily driver. If my wife ever reads this, I lied, I bought everything for $10. -Greg
Yeah your right. I usually work more productive by myself also. I will be get'n something done and someone will show up, we get to bs'n,admiring,dreaming, and by that time we lost all productive ambition and call it a night or get more beer! My wife calls my truck "the other woman". Keep the updates coming when you hit different milestones on the build.
Great build Greg! I applaud your ambition on this project. Cant wait to see the progress as you move forward. op: op: op:
Greg, Take plenty of pics and document the conversion. Make a pamphlet of sorts for us neophyte fabricators and sell for $10. If brackets or adapters were needed, you could put together a conversion kit. It could offset the project, or better yet, fund any future ideas. Yea I know, just what you need; a hobby turned business.
I got the axle tubes swapped. Just need to weld them in. After cutting the axle tubes off I made some internal sleeves to re-align them. Then slide, coax with a small hammer, into the opposite side. Then re-align the knuckles with proper caster angles and weld back together. As soon as I get the axles rebuilt I can set them to the side and get the truck in the shop and start tearing it apart.