1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Engine & Solid Axle Swap Build

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by greg0187, Nov 3, 2008.

  1. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    I had no idea they were built like that, I am going to look at my old diff and think on that one. These truck's are one of a kind. So the H bar set's over the trimmed side gear's ? I have never seen that one. Next time I lock a dff I think I will try that.
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011
  2. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Spaner, Yeah, the H bar setup is unique. Probably worth looking into. Have you seen it when the spiders valleys are filled with weld? Removable as well, and gives some differential action.


    I bolted the roll bar to the bed mounts that go to the frame. Used 2" C-channel. The bed bolts are recessed so there is a small length of tubing welded to the channel where the bolt goes through into the recessed area. Same as tying into the frame in my opinion. The channel is floating about an 1/8" above the bed floor. For the cab side I just built the roll bar into the original headache rack/roll bar.


    The recess.

    Attached Files:

  3. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    I wish the Carry bed's bolted in like that! There isn't any thing vary strong holding it to the frame. What are you planing for your transaxle diff? You and Spaner have some good idea's, But welding solid is the best I think for a trans axle. You know it will stay together. Have you tried using your stock radiator? I was worried that the stock one would not cool the bigger engine, but I have not had any problems at all. I used the Carry temp sending unit and the gauge stays the same as when the stock 3 cyl was in there, even on long steep grades at 90 plus air temp. I think the long rad hose's help cool it too.
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2011
  4. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member


    Ideas are a dime a dozen Digger. Think'in up sh!t, is just for fun.:pop:

    Greg, I've seen the "weld-filled-gears"; but, only Two-Toothed, engagement-drive(outer-inner);---DANGEROUS.
    Both you guys, do some nice work, and a few others on this site as well, remember the "Hunti-Bar"...nice..It's all just for fun.

    I'll tell you where I am with this now. Mechanical (Lockable) front Diff-Lock is out for me, could be done (using existing "axle-lock" fork and side gear), but it's WAYY out there, in cost and fab time. Just not realistic.

    I looked at an "electric" TCS (not electronic)(kept me up all night), figured it all out, using a "flip-flop" control circuit with the brake light sensor, and existing rear diff-lock system. Saftey control, system gets it's PWR (ON-OFF Selection--and energized indication) from the rear Diff-Lock system, SO, disengages through 39kph, regardless of "ON" selection.

    Using 3 proven "electric line-locks" ($35-each) and a "flip-flop" circuit. Press brake with the left foot, system locks rear brakes OPEN, locks left front OPEN, allows pressure to right front brake. Release brake, circuit collapses (flip-flop), pressure now goes to front left only. In "real time".
    So, as fast as you can "pump the brake pedal"; (FRONT)-Left-Right-Left...Tourque.
    Will work great for climbing thoses big sand hills, but you have to pump the brake pedal with your left foot, and you have NO standard brakes while the system is energized. Mechanical e-brake, on the rears only; if you get into trouble.

    So, my choice is to have electric TCS on the pedal, with rear e-brake. OR,
    Have full normal brakes, with mechanical TCS, in the fronts, with some mechanical e-brake front calipers, on a "rocking control lever", like I originally came up with. I've read about some competition guys going with "dual rear calipers" and hydraulic hand brakes, for competition drift racing. Informative for fab information, but I think that I've decided to go with my original idea, and replace the original front calipers, with some OEM's incorporating a mechanical e-brake. Also, I think that a mechanical levered control stick, will give some "feed-back", into the lever, and actually "let you FEEL" which wheel is spinning, and needing some extra "brake-time", before release.

    Working on it.

    That H-BAR would work out just fine in the trans axle, and be a little bit "beafier" in a 4-gear set-up. Mike-it-up, and I think that you will find that the sides are way thicker (within the carrier), compared to gear-filled-welds, and, be more than you need for strength, especially if you go with some 316 stainless steel, in a 3D (blocked) milling setup.

    As always, just my opinion.:cool:

  5. paulnixon

    paulnixon New Member

    According to me ,The MR2 MR2 Turbo and have no basis, and the engine mounts are rubber isolators incorporated. There are four brackets. The left and right side supports are mainly to support the weight of the engine and locate the motor side, and not allow the engine to move laterally. This means it keeps the engine running when the car goes around corners. The left side assembly is attached to the top of the gearbox. The mounting of the motor is attached to the right, above the main crankshaft pulley.
  6. monster mini

    monster mini New Member

    sounds like a lot of fun and work. Good luck with the project. I currently have swapped out my 550 cc engine for a 1.6 l tracker engine and installed the drive train as well. No longer a on road unit lol
  7. Drip Torch

    Drip Torch New Member

    prove it! lets see some pics!
  8. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Had a great new years day of some really hardcore wheelin and the truck did spectacular. 12 hours of wheelin and a half tank of fuel, with one issue where I forgot to tighten an alternator nut, a trip to the ORV park shop for a 14mm nut and had that fixed in 30 seconds. I haven't had this much fun in a long time!

    My appoligies, but the last 3 months has been crazy with work and the truck and I haven't had a chance to get on here to post much of anything.

    After spending 3 weeks in Japan I got home on Dec the 18th, spent about 3 days recovering from jet lag and getting ready for the holidays, visiting family, etc... During that time I managed to weld up the transaxle differential and did a complete rebuild while i was in there. It was my first time rebuilding a tranny, but it was a spare transmission I had laying around so I wasn't too worried if I messed something up.

    After Christmas I started the process of removing the old transaxle. I had a slight oil leak at the rear main seal so after I got the transmission out I pulled the oil pan, front main seal, and rear main seal and replaced them with new gaskets/seals. And of course, since I had gone that far, I replaced the timing belt and water pump, then to top it all off I pulled the valve train and replaced the cam seals and valve cover seals, then swapped the newly rebuilt trans in place. Finished it off with new alt and steering belts.

    I turned the last bolt at 11:45pm on December the 31st, and rang in the new year while test driving out in the construction area a 1/2 mile from the house. Wife texted me saying she could hear it rumbling in the living room during that time! Hells yeah!

    Anyway, I got some pics and video that I need to gather from other parties and will post them as soon as I get them. Believe me when I say I know I owe some pictures of the wheelin and from Japan. I haven't forgotten. Going out now to unload from the trailer and clean the incredible amout of mud off the truck.

    Happy New Year Y'all!

  9. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    So im realizing at this stage that i need some sort of camera equipment. Never really been that "Take pictures now" kinda fella, im more like "live it up and enjoy it". I'll post the few sorry photos that I have, regreting that i didn't take more, for you guys.

    A little story: :D

    11:55AM December 31st 2011: After turning the last bolt just before midnight, and just after a whole day of laying under the truck, I find myself raising hell in the constuction area just near the house. Obviously this involves many cold drinks. (my poor baby even missed out on the new years kisses, poor thing)

    approx 2:30AM January 1st 2012: After a few more tasty beverages we are satisfied that the modifications I have made will make the trip to the ORV park. A sober friend and myself decide to load the truck on the trailer to prepare for whats ahead. So I let my friend drive my tow vehicle over to where I keep my trailer and we hook it up. :cool:

    approx 3:30AM January 1, 2012: Get back to the house and load up the truck, pack a few tools, fluids, etc... and the oh so desperatly needed beverage cooler. :D We make plans to meet back up here at 4:30am.

    4:15AM: Getting really tired.... Buddy shows up and we make the short 1 hour drive to the park. Gotta love Monster Energy!

    5:15AM: Those poor people that we pulled up next to that where sleeping in their tent as we unloaded! ;)

    5:30AM: Off the trailer, just begining the day and here comes a down pour (Those poor people sleeping in the tents) LOL. We ride a couple of trails and do some of my famous "cyclones" in the mud pit and head back to home base for some more tasty beverages. (At this point Its my goal to not break anything this early in the game. Especially after all I did pay $20 for this red plastic bracelet.)

    7:00AM: Rain stops, and the place becomes alive with Gas, alcohol and propane powered 4x4 machines that no one can even imagine. $100K pieces of equipment ready to be smashed against the boulders that are just waiting for them around the bend.

    Approx 9:00AM: Rode a few of the "kiddie" trails and made a few stops at some of the "Big" trails and watched the machines battle the rocks... At this point it was time for a little more than just childs play.

    Who knows what time: Its cold and windy, but we have heat! WooHoo! The place is getting crowded. I tell my buddy, hey do you want to drive? 5 mins later hes in the drivers seat. So we ride... Now neither of us have been here but just a couple of times and at a place like this you just make a decision to go down a trail not knowing where it will take you. We hit a trail and then 5 mins later I'm getting out and saying "let me get out and spot you". 5 mins after that I have 3 500HP buggies sitting on 42's right behind us! Oh ****, no turning back now!!!! So to give you an idea what I did I found some video on youtube that shows the trails we took.

    This is the first major trail we got on. I think I need a gopro camera or somthing similar. Thoughts/suggestions? Remember I'm only riding this trail on 27's. They call it the Tunnel.


    Made it! Whew! High fives and a few knuckles afterwards the guys behind us stopped at the top and they checked out the truck saying they really enjoyed watching us climb that bit. I'm sure it was! It was a rush!

    At this point I got back in the drivers seat and we hit a few more trails, I was jealous, since my buddy got to drive the most intense part we've been on. So off we go and I found myself in the same situation. 2 big rock buggies right behind me on a trail I shouldn't of been on. Whoops!

    Rode the trail to the top and bailed just to the left before the exit (this is where the crowd of people were standing watching the next "victim" to come up the rock face!) This was the trail.


    After bailing prematurely we stopped at the top and watched a couple rigs go through and then thought to myself "I think I can do that". Got the guts to go and spotted a couple more rigs on their way and figured I would wait... out of the next three that came up only one made it. one samurai was successful and two jeeps bit the dust, broken axles, driveshafts and steering arms!. hmmmm I still think i can make it I thought. Im stupid like that! LOL

    This was the exit to what they call "Bents and Dents", My buddy took video on his phone where I climbed it. I will get that and post it as soon as I see him again. He said he heard a lot of people saying that "That thing" wasn't going to make it "up this". I prooved them wrong! :)


    4:30PM: Drove the truck onto the trailer and headed back to the house.

    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012
  10. fupabox

    fupabox Active Member

    Damn that's some nasty looking trails there...
  11. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Could life get any better. Great way to break in the new year, I'm jealous.
    I'd be your camera man anyday..:D

    Video can never be as good as the real thing. I know that I'm always disaponted in mine. It's just not even close to the real thing. But for the guys that were not there, it's like CANDY..:pop:

    Hurry up already..:rolleyes:
  12. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member


    I made a camera case for my truck out of a PVC pipe but if you don't already have an HD camera the GOPRO's are totally awesome.
  13. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    YA HOOOO Thats the stuff I LOVE!!! I wish I was with ya!! It would be sooomuch fun to be with all the buggies and show them the mighty mini can do it!!!:cool: So how did it do? Some of the rock's looked big for 27's. but a little wheel base truck look's to have some room to pick lines. Love to hear all ya did to your truck. :pop:
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012
  14. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    Greg, I was wandering how your truck did with the trans diff locked, and if it made the axle lockers noticeable. I found a lockright locker for the front of mine and wanted your thoughts on the rear axle. The way these lockers work I was thinking of just welding the rear diff , { getting a new case for the taller gears }. It only sees dirt roads. I am having a hard time finding the 2.72 gears, you would think they would be a dime a dozen, not much listed on the net.:frustration: I have been thinking on building tracks out of snowmobile tracks, kinda like the old Una Tracks. The Mattracks I have did not perform like I wanted and now that the truck is 2,000 lbs I know it won't float In the deep snow. Looked at your build thread the other day, that's a vary nice job you have done !!!. :pop:
  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Guys, just from my own R&D, I was looking at the Spartan lunchbox locker. It's not for me, but looks like the perfect unit for something under 2500LBs; for non-import components.

    And Greg, I've been looking at one of these "glasses" type video solidstate cameras. Might be something that you can "set, and forget". A little pricey, but not too bad for a high quatity unit.
  16. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    With the trans diff locked there is a lot of difference! The truck was very smooth before, now it has that typical 4wd binding feel especially when turning the slightest bit. The truck does not like the pavement at all!

    Honestly I can't tell the lockers are in there. I've driven on lots of pavement and have not noticed anything unusual, barking tires etc... Im not so sure they actually unlock very often. Im not surprised since they are designed to unlock in a, more or less, coast situation. With this drivetrain setup im pretty much in the throttle all the time or its gearing down. Seems to always be torque on the pinion. You get the idea.

    Overall Im happy with them. They don't feel clunky. No pops of any sort. I've heard them rachet (click) only a handful of times, the majority of these times has been since the center diff was locked. Somethings got to give i guess. They operate very quietly and you almost have to be listening for them.

    You could probably get away with welding the rear and saving a few hundred bucks. I'm just not sure how it will effect the rear/4 wheel steering performance.

    My only observation is that I would never install one on the rear of an everyday driver, and for offroad only applications there is no point in spending bank on the zip/air lockers compared to these.

    As far as the gears go, I took a look and your right. Not much of anything. Kinda has me worried about finding 3.08's because i didn't see any of those either. yikes!

    A track project of any kind from some old sleds would be pretty cool. Unfortunatly there are non existent around my neck of the woods!!!
  17. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Still working on this camera thing. The glasses are a cool idea.

    Anything has got to be better than my buddies cell phone videos!

    And yes, my rookie a$$ climbing bents and dents. Next time I think I need to concentrate less on the rear steer and get more into the throttle. The oil soaked rocks from busted oil pans had me worried.
  18. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    Greg; Ya, kinda what I thought, with torque on the pinion the axles lock, so I was not sure I wanted to spend the cash for a locker. I did find some 2.73's and have them on the way. That is, as far as I know the tallest gears for the CJ axles. Going from 4.27 to 2.73 gears, @ 2500 RPM [ 4.27 =17.48 MPH ] to [ 2.73 = 27.34 MPH ]. The locker for the front, two carrier's, and two sets of gears cost $ 600.00, Plus new bearings, oil, shims and seals, that' s allot for 10 MPH :frustration: As far as the rear steer it seems to be ok, the rear tires are always skiding in a turn. I unlock one front hub when i don't need 4 wheel drive but I think with the front locker I will have to unlock both hubs. It was kinda nice to open the door and reach down to unlock the front axle. o well. I have been thinking of making some kind of gauge to show when rear wheels are centered. Do you have any thoughts ? And yes, I too know the feeling of seeing glass, oil, and paint on rocks and ledges when I go to Moab's trails. :eek::confused::eek: It makes ya think of more than just getting over the ledge!!! OOOya the rush of trying to get up something your not sure the truck can do and having jeeps and buggies with ya. Then the feeling ya get when ya made it up. We would love to hear more on the trip to the park, I just LOVE a good story!, And even the crappy cell pix is cool too! :pop: Joe
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  19. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Gas tank sending unit and matching gauge, half tank neutral position. Make up a custom back plate for the gauge on a jet printer.

    That's what I'd do anyway..
  20. Little Digger

    Little Digger Member

    There ya go !! I didn't think of something like that. I was going to use a solid cable and run it into the cab to some sort of hand made gauge. Your idea would be better. I would have to make something to keep the mud out of the contact's. I wanted to put some gauges for the trans temp and hyd temp. A steering gauge will fit right in!! Thank's Spaner !!:cool:

Share This Page