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Desperately need tuning help!

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by rstickley, Nov 20, 2011.

  1. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    I am working on a '91 Suzuki DD51T. I changed the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, dropped tank and cleaned out, and put a kit in the carburator. It does not idle smooth and I was wondering if someone can give me the carb adjustment proceedure, timing setting (for South Louisiana), and a vacuum diagram?:frustration:
     
  2. daddygroove

    daddygroove Member

    good day,
    distributor cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, carb kit? did you install the original parts?. it will make a big difference in your performance, drivabilty, reliability, safety, quality just to name a few.
     
  3. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    All were original parts except for fuel pump and filter. These were aftermarket but was on the truck for the past 4 years. Truck sat up since last Febuary and fuel varnished up everything so we just decided to replace pump and filter since we were changing everything else. It ran fine with that pump and filter before.
     
  4. 19pointbuck

    19pointbuck New Member

    tune up in a can

    I would give her a good drink of Sea Foam. Very good product for cleaning up varnish.
     
  5. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    She has had a steady diet of SeaFoam since adopting 4 yrs ago.
     
  6. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    Can someone please post a vacuum hose diagram and carb setting procedure. Even if it is in Japanese, my nephew can translate it but he leaves tomorrow morning. I will start back on it tomorrow night and need to get this thing finished.
     
  7. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    OK. I still need some help. I have checked all vac lines for position and leaks and as far as I can tell, all is good (I check all hoses physically and with propane). This is what is going on now. When cold, engine will idle but with a slight unsteady miss. Once it is slightly warm,(after about 1 min) the choke opens and it idles down, stumbles and dies. It will start up and continue to do this. If I go drive it, it runs great but does not idle. Once it reaches operating temp, it will idle but still not as smooth as I would like it too. I don't know what else to check.:frustration: I am now begging for assistance:confused:.
     
  8. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    Try cupping something over the carb inlet (with the air filter housing off) while at partial throttle. A quick and complete vacuum inside the carb can help dislodge any debris that has accumulated inside it. Sounds like the idle jets/bowl is corroded up? May require a teardown..
     
  9. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    As I've posted elseware, if you will go through the trouble of posting up some referance pics of the carb with #'s for all the set screews. I will go through the trouble of describing the carb tuning procedure. Which will not help you if you have not eliminated all of the vac leaks and set the timing properly.
    The problem will not be rectified by typing a post.
     
  10. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    In this photo, there is one adjustment screw and one vacuum port.

    [​IMG]

    In this photo, there is two adjustment screws.

    [​IMG]

    In this photo, there are 5 vacuum ports that I would like a second opinion on what hooks up where:

    [​IMG]
    Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am getting frustrated:frustration::frustration:.
     
  11. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Man, you've got bad timing. Monday, it was +1 here, now it's -37c with the wind chill, trucks at the storage yard.
    It would be cool though, if we could get a running concensus from all the DD51t owners as to where their vacuum lines run to. If 12 people chimed in, then everyone could be pretty confident that a particular line was run to the correct position. For right now, I can give you the one's from memory that I am 100% sure where they run on MY DD51t.

    #6: runs to a small T with short line to middle/back of air canister, longer line to bottom of canister, second line beside it on the canister runs to hot air intake control valve.
    #1: runs to EPA fuel recovery canister. Runs along under seat rail, then through fire wall. Canister is behind right front wheel well.
    #2 is choke pull-off vac power, runs through a green flow control element first.
    #3 I think is distributor through brown element...memory getting scetchy.
    #4 I think is the idle-up controler...very scetchy.
    #5 I think runs to thermal manifold switch and then to egr valve...just guessing now.
    I'd have to go out and look at the truck to be sure, but you have a lot more vac lines than that on the truck to figure out before you try to dial in the adjustments, and I think that you've missed a screew. The back side/left, should have, Idle, Idle-up/pre-start, and Idle-up/Acc...plus the acelerator pump rest in the front. That should be 4. Have another look.
    Take them out and brush/neversize them, so that they can be adjusted with a driver bit, held in your fingers, cuz you can't get anything elce in there. Carfull with the second pic being backwards....#6 sits just behind #1?
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
    Merch likes this.
  12. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    For #6: Does it matter which port (of the 2) on the bottom of the housing that this hose connects to?
     
  13. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't think so cu'z it's just an on/off thermal valve, but on mine the vacuum T-off runs to the aft connection, then the front connection runs to the hot air controler.
     
  14. the pou

    the pou Member

    vacuum drawing

    i have a drawing of the carb vacuum hozes, will try to attache a picture,it is from a 1993 suzuki carry with air conditioning.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    the pou, some one put a lot of work into that, only problem with a specific truck scematic, is that there are about 20 different setups. I have 5 different factory drawings out of parts and repair manuals, none of them match my truck.
    Like your drawing there, I discount it based on the fact that the manifold temp valve has the 4 element sensor switch, mine has the 2.
    I'm sure that some one will find it useful though.
    Also, my carb "5" vac lines are run differently than your's, not saying that mine are right 100%, just different.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2011
  16. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    Ok, I did find another adjustment. In this picture, it is behind the plastic arm where the circle is.
    [​IMG]

    As for as the diagram, mine too is different in some aspects as mentioned but thanks. I am getting closer.
     
  17. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    OK, cool. Like I said though, It's minus friken freezing here, so I don't have my truck to go out and look at. What that means is, that I'm not sure which screew adjusts which element. Can't really tell for sure from your picture either, but that shouldn't matter for you, cu'z you should be able to tell what element is being pushed when you tighten a particular screew. Sorry, best I can do for you.:eek:
    You will need to remove the petal cover in the front as well, and check for slack in the cable a few times when adjusting the carb. This is where you adjust the cable tension, so that when you're done, you should be able to press the petal slightly and see the slack here.

    With the truck off, adjust screews #1,2,3 so that they are all off the bases. Tap the petal and make sure that you have cable slack. Start the truck and let it warm up, it should be on the choke. Once it is warm, off the petal, this is the lowest that you can set your base idle. Probably won't keep running. Also, if the fan comes on at anytime, you will have to wait for it to go off, inorder to continue.
    Set your base idle with screew #3. Make sure that the 2 other screews are not seated, and you have cable slack. Once you are happy with where it is, seat the accelerator pump #1(close the gap).
    (NOTE: single shaft, this is why the carbs jamb up, when people adjust the idle with the wrong screew-shaft twist and other problems with an open jet)
    Now lock the cable down; keep some slack in it, too much is better than not enough.
    Now have someone turn your head lights on and off, you will see the acc actuator moving, looks like #2 to me. With lights on, set #2 @ 1500RPM.
    Lights off 950RPM-Lights on 1500RPM. Or by ear, if that's the best you can do.

    That's it, carb is adjusted.
    It's not really a big deal if you do it the right way, but causes a lot of problems if you do it any other way. Screew #6 co2, is about half way in on mine, dosen't matter really....#4 and #5 I will mention in the choke thread.
    Good luck, should take about a hour.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012
    Merch and greg0187 like this.
  18. rstickley

    rstickley Member

    Thanks a million. I will first trace all my vacuum lines again before any ajustments will be made. The only thing I know is different from what you are saying is that the on the #6 line, I do not have a "T". It is one line that goes straight from the manifold to the air breather housing. But I will check everything else and post results when I can. Thanks again.
     
  19. the pou

    the pou Member

    vacuum drawing

    discount my drawing??? off corse there is a lot of configuration according to the different eqiuippement or options of a truck.if you have only 2 pins on your manifold temperature valve, it is because your EGV(exhaust gaz valve)
    is control by a part directly on your intake that open the EGV only when ingine is warm and when it reach hy rpm (hy intake vacuum)this is why the newer carb have only 4 vacuum pins.
    but on most f6a ingine with carb,(arond 1990)
    pin 1 should control the fast idle cut off
    pin 3 should alway control the distributer advance
    this is because of the vacuum vs rpm graphic.
    on a vehicule with 4 pin manifold temp valve,
    pin 5 controle the EGV valve only when ingine is hot , with hy rpm
    on most set up around 1990 to 1995, the choke cut off is on pin 4
    choke will cut off very slowly when ingine is cold, but when hot, the temperature valve will by-pass the delay valve, and open quickly the choke
    valve .
    pin 2 sucks gas fumes from the canister
    i am sorry for the spelling, i dont write very well in english, i am better in french.
    please feel free to correc my drawing, like you said, there is a lot of configurations, i had to check a lot of drawing to match my truck
    proper configuration
    the important thing to consider before conecting carb vacuum hozes, is to check the( vacuum vs rpm) graphic to make sure it matches the proper function ex.. distributor advance.
    and have a happy new year every body!!
     
  20. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Thanks the pou, discount is maybe the wrong word, just ment that it is not a match for my truck. I read your last post just fine and a lot of good info there. The idea I get from you is that at some point in the future I will test the individual vacuum ports with a gauge and so know for sure which lines to connect, not needing a drawing.

    Thanks
     

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