First with cold starting problems, I have had 4 trucks now with the same problem. The choke was sticking and not closing completely. I removed the air cleaner hose, plus the plastic cover on the carg and sprayed carb cleaner on the choke plate plus all the linkage. Then I spayed some lubricant on everything. It is hard to hit everything because there is a metal cover hiding most the linkage, use the plastic tube that comes with some spray cans. That cured the cold starting on all the trucks. As far as no power, the sticky choke could also cause some of that. On the other hand, synthetic gear lube goes a long way to making these trucks roll easier. I got a container of trucks yesterday morning, -20C here, it was almost impossible to push the trucks, even downhill, whereas in the summer they roll out by themselves with a bit of a push. I was amazed that every truck started right up, even the Toyota diesel.
A little off topic here, but..... Anyone have experience with the Kats lower radiator hose heater? Is that a better or worse option than the oil pan heaters with the objective of heating up the heater core asap to get the cabin warm. Which heats things up quicker? Thanks! -Andy
I don't know about the Kats brand in particular, I use Temro, but the lower rad hose heater definitely is better than a pad. More watts-more heat. On Subarus, I also found it beneficial to insulate the 3 steel tubes that carry the coolant to the front. Any hardware store has pipe insulation. betterthanquads.com
Andy, As Teeshka says, the lower radiator hose heater is better, but I have been installing both the Katz hose heaters and a pad on the oil pan, figuring more heat is better than less. And since those pads are cheap, why not? -Hiram
Think something like this would work from katz? It is a magnetic engine block heater. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200339105_200339105 I had thought of fabricating an electrical cord to plug in an engine/radiator hose heater and a ceramic heater. I could fab a cord for the ceramic heater and run it through the firewall to the inside of the cab and have an outlet in the cab for the ceramic heater. While sitting at work, the inside of the cab could be heated as well.
Hijet block heater I found that for my 93 Hijet the stick on pad works quite well. But since the oil pan is not flat I first had to stick on a 1/8 steel plate - JB Weld does the trick very well. Then the pad goes on the plate and seal it all with silicone. Done quickly and realatively inexpensively.
FYI, I have a Subaru Sambar 91, standard aspiration. I think I solved my cold weather isues with the folowing actions: -Covered the radiator with a tarp. -Insulated the rad lines (3) from the engine to the rad (front to back in the subaru) -Instaled a lower rad hose heater -instaled a pan heater -cranked up the "fast idle" screw on the carb -changed oil to 5w30 synthetic I find now when I start up I get some temp on the rad fluid and I manage to keep it up even at higher speeds in -30C. I have no problem cruising at 90k in 4x4 in cold cold temps either. As winter progresses, I'll let you guys know if there is anything else I find...looking forward to -39 later this week! DC
Sambar van I just got a 92 Sambar van in, and it started the other morning at -32 C., no assistance, no heaters or lighter oil, just pumped the gas twice and it fired right up. Heater makes pretty good heat too, although I wouldn't want to be in the back seat. betterthanquads.com
I know this is a very old thread, but I have a 1991 subaru sambar that would not warm up enough when the temps were really cold outside. I only insulated the 3 coolant pipes underneath and blocked off the holes in the front bumper with a piece of plastic and now it's nice and warm inside and the engine warms up rather quickly. Given it is aftermarket supercharged and different carb, it still warmed up identically to when it was stock before the cold weather modifications.
