Adjustment located. This is the minimum throttle positioner under choke operation. CCW reduces throttle valve opening. CW increasees throttle valve opening. Good luck. I don't know how you could get to it while mounted...
Explaining the adjustments and operation of the choke system, mikuni 77042. I decided to put it here to avoid having the specific information lost in a very long thread. The system uses two controlers and two adjustment screews aswell as a factory set "forked" conecting rod on the choke pull-off (or open ) Prior to starting the engine, the choke butterfly is 100% closed, and the throttle butterfly is sitting on the throttle-up restart actuator, apr 50%. Also, the main choke "water-control" valve, is all the way retracted. At start-up, a vacuum is applied to the choke pull-off actuator, cracking the choke butterfly to apr the 85% position. At the same time, a vacuum is applied to the throttle-up actuator, retracting it down to the low idle position, however, the throttle butterfly is cracked, sitting on the main water choke controler. The truck is now warming up, with throttle cracked and 85% choke. As the water jacket continues to warm, the main water choke push-pin will start to extend, pushing the main cam and turning the "spring-gear-perset". Choke butterfly angle will continue to decrease and throttle will remain cracked, while riding the long curved cam. Once fully warmed, the main water choke push pin will be fully extended, the choke butterfly will be 100% open, and the throttle control will be positioned to the base of the throttle-up actuator seating; as well as the jet adjustment seat on the opposit side of the carb. If everything works as described, you should have no need to make any adjustments. If you chose to adjust something, make sure everything else is tip-top first....TIP-TOP. Adjusting the choke butterfly position. If the butterfly is not all the way closed prior to start OR is not all the way open after fully warmed up. The main water valve push-pin, may be adjusted with screew #4 (below). It simply lengthens or shortens the pin length, in order to "center" the open/closed actuation. Adjusting the choke initial warm up position. If not sitting at apr the 85% position, it may be adjusted at the pull-off actuator control rod end. An "F" or forked end is factory set, but may be changed a few degrees by opening or closing the fork. Adjusting the warm-up engine speed. Too high, too low. Described in previous post. Pic stolen from rstickley...
Thanks Spaner for the info. I was wondering how to adjust the warm up idle on my DB51T. Its a little high, and I want to lower it. Awesome pic's too. They really help.
Thanks, vortechys, seriously, I figure out a lot of stuff while working to perfect the interceptor 1; for next season. BTW, since you're interested, 2000RPM on the initial choke (max RPM during full cycle), 1500RPM on the acc Idle-up system, and 950 for the base... Good times awate...op:
this should be a sticky post in the Suzuki section...prob helped many who haven't said thanks....:frustration:
I agree Fupa. This should be a sticky. By the way, Spaner my warm up rpm is about 500 to high. Thanks for the specs
Na, I was just peed off again because of something totally unrelated. Funny how that happens... Anyway, just got word back from the rebuild place about the carb, they just got it and their attitude seems to be that it's "just another carb" just like the hundreds of others that they work with every day. I asked if they needed me to locate a kit for them or get them in touch with someone, and it was like I had insulted them. "We'll call you when it's done" To me, this is the most reasuring thing that they could have said. We'll see when it comes back...
So when the engine is warmed up and choke is no longer needed is the choke supposed to be wide open. Mine will not run that way. The choke butterfly has to be partly closed at a very precise spot for the engine to run with no issues. Its been driving me insane. I set everything properly. Not my first go round with such things. Then when warmed up i havetto close the choke a bit to make her run right
YUP, that's wrong, AND it is NOT set right, it's the "something else" that's wrong. Check your own repair thread for the details, and many here will try to help you out...:sly: If not; I'll personally dog you ti'll you're sick of it...:frustration:
I know this is an old thread, but is there any way to see how to fork is positioned around the choke butterfly cam? Just want to make sure mine is correct while I'm in there. Working on a basket case of vaccum/coolant line issues on a dd51t I bought.
I figured it out. But I was referring to the arm coming off the back of the choke diaphragm around gear mechanism for the choke
Does anyone know if there is a constant flow of coolant through the auto choke housing or does it only flow when the thermostat is open? I’m [finally] getting flow through the tubes after much effort of creatively unclogging them, but it’s intermittent flow… making me think the thermostat is sticking closed every now and again. There’s probably still so much junk in there causing trouble, even after many flushes.
The coolant goes through choke housing in a loop. I doubt you have a thermostat problem, most likely clogged lines.
Alright, thanks. I’ve got the housing clear… those hard lines (assembly #16 in photo) are what’s really causing the problem. The input line is clear but that return hardline is really dirty. I’ll get it clear, the choke pin will open and then and the line clogs right back up and coolant ceases to flow again. I’ll keep trying to clear the line, I’m considering just bypassing the old hardline coolant tubes with new ones so I’ll never have to deal with it again.
