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Carburetor replacement

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by Sheperdale, May 31, 2009.

  1. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    I have done all the research I can on this site or anywhere else. I am going to attempt to replace my carb with something else and was wondering if anyone has the measurements for the Mikuni of a '92 Suzuki Carry. Has anyone done this before? If they have I can't find the posts. Is it 32mm? Somebody please help. If somebody has some ideas, where to start or how to measure it, let me know.
     
  2. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Giving it a go

    Found a cheap Mikuni TM 32 mm which is the same size as the one on the truck. I am going to attempt to tune this with the truck. Found a flange that will mount it straight the the intake. Wish me luck and if anybody has the vacuum diagram for a 92 carry please let me know. The manual I have doesn't have one.
     
    Sickboy774 likes this.
  3. tyfyeq

    tyfyeq Member

    sounds good please keep me posted
     
  4. Suzuki Carry DD51T Vacuum

    Hope this is of some help to you.
     

    Attached Files:

    Sickboy774 likes this.
  5. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Those charts look exactly like what I need. The pics are pretty small, are there any bigger? Also I would update this thread and I am going to do some photos except the carb that I ordered on the 4th is still not here. I'm beginning to think the company that I went with was a bad choice.
     
  6. Last edited: Jun 21, 2009
  7. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Alright the good news is after finding where to run the vacuum lines and hooking up the gas with the new carb, the truck fired right up. Ran it a while and let it heat up. Idles good, was able to set the timing and had good throttle response. Sounds great, until I went to turn it off and it just kept running. Lay on the suggestions please. I'm close people, and this could save a lot of people. Once I get it all done I will post pictures and directions.
     
    Sickboy774 likes this.
  8. Mighty Milt

    Mighty Milt Active Member

    if it has an electric choke you may have it cross wired back to the coil. i have seen cars in the past that run a 12v lead from the hot wire on the coil to the choke to turn it on with the key.

    so if you have a constant hot wire going to the coil somwhere then the ignition won't cut out when the key is off. if you don't quickly fix the problem the constant power to the ignition system will ruin your points and condensor. i would consider disconnecting the battery.
     
  9. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Thanks Milt. It gave me an idea after some extensive studying of the wiring diagrams. I took a trick from my old CJ7 carburetor (the Carter with the metering rods) where you run it to a certain rpm then cut the wires. I installed the other carb and got it started with the silenoid from the old card still hooked up. Run it until it was warm, set the timing and idle and then disconnected the solenoid. It runs like a top now with no problems, even with my snorkel. Sorry about the delay in posts been real crazy at work. I'll have pictures of the project up in a couple of weeks. Oh and if anybody wants to buy a completely rebuilt OEM carb for this model let me know, i did that in case my project didn't work.
     
  10. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    is there more power? what jets did you run in the carb? how is the truck for cold starting?
     
  11. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Pictures

    Finally putting photos up. I have a couple more things to do like run the manual choke cable, and figure out a way to run the heat lines back to the intake. Thinking about a manual ball valve to open and close to de-ice the carb like on an airplane. So as you go through the pictures you can see that the vacuum lines have been re-routed to the hose port on the intake manifold that was used for the thermo valve that was hooked on the old airbox. The jets in the carb are in there are the ones that came in the carb. A little more torque than before. Could be attributed to the bigger intake and the fact that I have a K&N on the end of my snorkel. Used the drain clean out to cause some dead air space (it reduced the noise) and helps keep the pressure even preventing the reverse venturi effect and stopping back fires. So far even with out the choke it has had no probelm starting at about 40 F which is what the temp is every morning right now. When it gets colder it should have no problems with the choke. I have been tracking the color on the spark plugs and pistons and so far so good. It has been running flawless for 4 weeks now. Any other questions let me know.
     

    Attached Files:

    Sickboy774 likes this.
  12. bigguybigguy

    bigguybigguy New Member

    How do you plan to use the choke as it is a plunger type on the side of the new carb?
     
  13. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well that's pretty simple. Drill a hole and get a get a choke cable for this brand mikuni and run it into the cab. They make numerous different cable kits for this carb.
     
  14. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Still working great

    I thought I would give everybody at least a six month update. With temps ranging from 70F to -32F this has been the way to go. Once it got below freezing (the air is also extremely dry where I live) a slight tweak richer on the fuel-air screw was all the doctor ordered. With the manual choke, cold starts are a snap. The next project for this will be the warm air induction off the cuff from the exhaust to combat the carb ice on the days when the humidity gets high. The other nice thing is the sump on the carb bowl to get the water out. Maybe because I am used to aircraft, the carb deice with a ball valve controlled from the cab sounds like an awesome idea. I'll let everyone know how that goes. Also I recently wrapped the coolant lines that went into the old carb around the intake side of the card and it helps quite a bit.
     
  15. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    so is there more power?
     
  16. dieseldogsdad

    dieseldogsdad Member

    Does your truck have a vacuum advance for timing? If so where did you get vacuum from does the new carb have vac line hookups, I see the tees in the picture but where do they go. I would like to do a similar swap. Did you have to make the adapter for the intake manifold or is it something you can buy?
     
  17. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Vacuum lines

    I ran all the vacuum lines to include the timing advance back to the port on the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
     
  18. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well that's a pretty simplistic approach and I will have to respectfully disagree. When it comes to timing and keeping your vacuum advance, as well as the hiccup with the electrical trying to open and close the the solenoid on the old carb, I would do all the steps that I went through to save the hassle.
     
  19. goldstar

    goldstar Member

    Great job on the carb swap buddy and thanks for the detailed info and pics.
    Your choice to go with Mikuni makes for easy tuning and parts availability and cold weather starting should never be an issue as these are the carbs of choice for most OEM snowmobile manufacturers for both two and four stroke engines. I was considering the same option in case of a carb failure, due to the expense involved in replacing with OEM.
    Did the TM you installed have an accelerator pump or does the flat slide of the TM provide enough throttle response to eliminate stumble when accelerating?
    Thanks again for sharing your build with the rest of us. I, for one, really appreciate and applaud your efforts.
     
  20. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well thanks

    I'm just glad that anyone can use it. As for the fuel pump I don't have it but I think it would help. Depending on humidity and temp i have to do small changes. I think the pump would make it more consistent.
     
  21. mini me

    mini me New Member

    Just wondering if you guys are talking about the same pump ( accelerator pump that are on the carbs themselves ) and the fuel pump sheperdale is talking about. I need and want to do this so bad i hate the stock carb and need to be able to jet the carb because of the air box mod and exhaust mod I have done to my truck

    thanks for the wicked post
     
  22. goldstar

    goldstar Member

    Accelerator pump

    Yeah Mini Me.
    The accelerator pump is what we were referring to. What mods did you make to your air box and exhaust?
     
  23. mini me

    mini me New Member

    For the air box I removed the lid and put a K N filter in it. Punched out the catalytic converter and replaced muffler with a universal glasspack muffler.

    Should i be looking for a carb with a accelerator pump to try?
    I have one on my Honda trx 450r quad maybe that would work? I forget the specs on it but I will check and see what I got I know on my quad when I removed the air box lid it would die hard if u hit the throttle fast, to fix it i had to change my leak jet to smaller size to make accelerator pump out more fuel
     
  24. sdjenk

    sdjenk New Member

    So how is the truck running now with the new carb? I am looking to do the same thing. Could you tell me what motor size you have CC? and which carb is it you used and jet sizes would be helpful. Thanks
     
  25. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Still running

    Well the truck with card is still running by what the wife tells me, I have been deployed for a year. It is a 660 and the carb is a mikuni tm 32 flat slide. It's been running great ever since I did it. I found a three position choke cable of a ski doo and ran it into the cab. It's been working great.
     
    Tiger pit likes this.
  26. Casper

    Casper New Member

    I was wondering how the TM32 did over-all, would you do it again? The carb on my Suzuki Carry is crapping out, I thought about changing to an aircraft carb. However the TM32 is at a decent price and it does look like it fit in just right, as I was going to install a snorkel as well.
     
  27. Casper

    Casper New Member

    Another question, what would be wrong with using a Mikuni 32mm VM round slide carb instead? It is quite a bit cheaper yet, is it because of top end acceleration "difference between round and flat slide"?
     
  28. Casper

    Casper New Member

    I just got my Mikuni TM32 and the Mounting flange today. WOW, after removing the old factory stock carb, this is really going to clean things up and make it easier to do maintenance. I started installing the new carb, however I elected to used the spacer off of the old carb to set out the new carb an extra "approx. 1/2" ". This way it will make it just a little easier to work on. I got the fuel line hooked up, the snorkel started, put a good clean cloth "lent free medical towel" over the intake, just to test fire. Started right up, almost idle perfect without adjustment, I think I may have a vacuum line issue "hmm".
    One thing that is an issue for me is the throttle cable. I'm going to have one made "as you just can seem to find a cable in that length with the elbow on it". The top of the carb sets pretty close to the bottom of the cab, I wished the carb was an 1" shorter. Anyway I will post some pictures when I get it finally done like I want it.
     
  29. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Casper,
    Sorry about not getting back to you but sounds like you are really on your way. The cable thing got me into manufacturing my own. I did buy a 90 degree tube that screwed into the top of the carb so I didn't have bent housing. It just fit under the beam between the seats. It was actually for a kehin carb but screwed right in. I run mine a little leaner all the time but not so much it runs to hot or backfires.
     
  30. Casper

    Casper New Member

    Good to hear from you Sheperdale, carb is still a work in progress, one thing that I had to do was change out the 3.3 needle valve "I could figure out why it would puke out some gas from the drain tubes, then it came to me". The TM32 Mikuni is a bike carb first and foremost, hence it was made for gravity feed, I installed a 1.5 needle valve for a fuel pump application and stopped the purging of fuel.
    I am currently working with a company out of California to make a throttle cable that will work perfect for the job at hand, when we get it done right I will post it. I told them there will be others that will want to do this "if it all works good".
    I got my little rig running but I found other problems "not carb", bad cap and rotor!
    Oh, I also installed an aftermarket fuel pump, mine was junk. The new one came with an inline fuel filter that screwed right on the inlet side of the pump. This really cleaned up the frame rail back by the gas tank.

    I will try and get some pic's on here when I get some time "really busy now with work".
     

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