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Carburetor replacement

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by Sheperdale, May 31, 2009.

  1. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    I have done all the research I can on this site or anywhere else. I am going to attempt to replace my carb with something else and was wondering if anyone has the measurements for the Mikuni of a '92 Suzuki Carry. Has anyone done this before? If they have I can't find the posts. Is it 32mm? Somebody please help. If somebody has some ideas, where to start or how to measure it, let me know.
  2. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Giving it a go

    Found a cheap Mikuni TM 32 mm which is the same size as the one on the truck. I am going to attempt to tune this with the truck. Found a flange that will mount it straight the the intake. Wish me luck and if anybody has the vacuum diagram for a 92 carry please let me know. The manual I have doesn't have one.
    Sickboy774 likes this.
  3. tyfyeq

    tyfyeq Member

    sounds good please keep me posted
  4. Suzuki Carry DD51T Vacuum

    Hope this is of some help to you.

    Attached Files:

    Sickboy774 likes this.
  5. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Those charts look exactly like what I need. The pics are pretty small, are there any bigger? Also I would update this thread and I am going to do some photos except the carb that I ordered on the 4th is still not here. I'm beginning to think the company that I went with was a bad choice.
  6. Last edited: Jun 21, 2009
  7. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Alright the good news is after finding where to run the vacuum lines and hooking up the gas with the new carb, the truck fired right up. Ran it a while and let it heat up. Idles good, was able to set the timing and had good throttle response. Sounds great, until I went to turn it off and it just kept running. Lay on the suggestions please. I'm close people, and this could save a lot of people. Once I get it all done I will post pictures and directions.
    Sickboy774 likes this.
  8. Mighty Milt

    Mighty Milt Moderator

    if it has an electric choke you may have it cross wired back to the coil. i have seen cars in the past that run a 12v lead from the hot wire on the coil to the choke to turn it on with the key.

    so if you have a constant hot wire going to the coil somwhere then the ignition won't cut out when the key is off. if you don't quickly fix the problem the constant power to the ignition system will ruin your points and condensor. i would consider disconnecting the battery.
  9. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Thanks Milt. It gave me an idea after some extensive studying of the wiring diagrams. I took a trick from my old CJ7 carburetor (the Carter with the metering rods) where you run it to a certain rpm then cut the wires. I installed the other carb and got it started with the silenoid from the old card still hooked up. Run it until it was warm, set the timing and idle and then disconnected the solenoid. It runs like a top now with no problems, even with my snorkel. Sorry about the delay in posts been real crazy at work. I'll have pictures of the project up in a couple of weeks. Oh and if anybody wants to buy a completely rebuilt OEM carb for this model let me know, i did that in case my project didn't work.
  10. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    is there more power? what jets did you run in the carb? how is the truck for cold starting?
  11. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member


    Finally putting photos up. I have a couple more things to do like run the manual choke cable, and figure out a way to run the heat lines back to the intake. Thinking about a manual ball valve to open and close to de-ice the carb like on an airplane. So as you go through the pictures you can see that the vacuum lines have been re-routed to the hose port on the intake manifold that was used for the thermo valve that was hooked on the old airbox. The jets in the carb are in there are the ones that came in the carb. A little more torque than before. Could be attributed to the bigger intake and the fact that I have a K&N on the end of my snorkel. Used the drain clean out to cause some dead air space (it reduced the noise) and helps keep the pressure even preventing the reverse venturi effect and stopping back fires. So far even with out the choke it has had no probelm starting at about 40 F which is what the temp is every morning right now. When it gets colder it should have no problems with the choke. I have been tracking the color on the spark plugs and pistons and so far so good. It has been running flawless for 4 weeks now. Any other questions let me know.

    Attached Files:

    Sickboy774 likes this.
  12. bigguybigguy

    bigguybigguy New Member

    How do you plan to use the choke as it is a plunger type on the side of the new carb?
  13. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well that's pretty simple. Drill a hole and get a get a choke cable for this brand mikuni and run it into the cab. They make numerous different cable kits for this carb.
  14. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Still working great

    I thought I would give everybody at least a six month update. With temps ranging from 70F to -32F this has been the way to go. Once it got below freezing (the air is also extremely dry where I live) a slight tweak richer on the fuel-air screw was all the doctor ordered. With the manual choke, cold starts are a snap. The next project for this will be the warm air induction off the cuff from the exhaust to combat the carb ice on the days when the humidity gets high. The other nice thing is the sump on the carb bowl to get the water out. Maybe because I am used to aircraft, the carb deice with a ball valve controlled from the cab sounds like an awesome idea. I'll let everyone know how that goes. Also I recently wrapped the coolant lines that went into the old carb around the intake side of the card and it helps quite a bit.
  15. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    so is there more power?
  16. dieseldogsdad

    dieseldogsdad Member

    Does your truck have a vacuum advance for timing? If so where did you get vacuum from does the new carb have vac line hookups, I see the tees in the picture but where do they go. I would like to do a similar swap. Did you have to make the adapter for the intake manifold or is it something you can buy?
  17. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Vacuum lines

    I ran all the vacuum lines to include the timing advance back to the port on the intake manifold. Hope that helps.
  18. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well that's a pretty simplistic approach and I will have to respectfully disagree. When it comes to timing and keeping your vacuum advance, as well as the hiccup with the electrical trying to open and close the the solenoid on the old carb, I would do all the steps that I went through to save the hassle.
  19. goldstar

    goldstar Member

    Great job on the carb swap buddy and thanks for the detailed info and pics.
    Your choice to go with Mikuni makes for easy tuning and parts availability and cold weather starting should never be an issue as these are the carbs of choice for most OEM snowmobile manufacturers for both two and four stroke engines. I was considering the same option in case of a carb failure, due to the expense involved in replacing with OEM.
    Did the TM you installed have an accelerator pump or does the flat slide of the TM provide enough throttle response to eliminate stumble when accelerating?
    Thanks again for sharing your build with the rest of us. I, for one, really appreciate and applaud your efforts.
  20. Sheperdale

    Sheperdale Member

    Well thanks

    I'm just glad that anyone can use it. As for the fuel pump I don't have it but I think it would help. Depending on humidity and temp i have to do small changes. I think the pump would make it more consistent.

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