Ok. I am at my wits end with this truck. I cannot get it to run properly. I have done everything I can think of including new fuel pump and filter. Still runs like crap, especially when cold (it barely runs, you can hold down the gas and it simply sputters away increasing RPM ever ever so slowly). I have the Lulu service manual and it is no help with this. I have been adjusting the venturi screws, SAS and TAS (what does this stand for?) screws, as well as the idle screw. I cannot seem to get this right. Can someone suggest where to start? Thanks.
Meaning of SAS & TAS SAS lean/rich and TAS is Idle screw. Also check your vacuum lines! Cracked lines will kill a Subie any day. Cheers, Don
have you checked timing and timing advance? have you checked your ignition system. a weak spark (like a failing coil) will mask it's self as a fuel problem. i chased a "carb" problem for two days. if you pumped the throttle it would start to gain rpm. turned out to be a weak spark from the coil and a bad condensor.
Thanks Guys. I will check my points, timing, vacuum lines, and timing advance. Surely there is some way to get this truck to purr again! When I got it it would start just by tapping the starter and never had an issue, then it started hesitating, and now it barely runs. Now that I have messed around with the carb as much as I have, any tips on getting it back to the correct settings? Matt
One other question. How does the idle screw differ from the fast idle screw? Not sure that I understand the difference. Also are points something I can buy over the counter here for some other vehicle? That is any interchanges available? Thanks.
in a pinch, if the points look bad, you can pull them out, file the contacts to clean them up and re-gap them... that is if they aren't comletely burnt through. take a good look at them first, see if they are even the culprit. if you can get the engine to run, at least idle maybe, pull one of the plugs and see what color spark you are getting across it. if it's a really weak spark you know the ignition system is the problem, if it's a really hot spark, get back to working on that carb
Bad Running Sambar I had the same issues with my 1991 KS4A (NA) truck. I haven't completely resolved it, but things are better. I found if the truck was parked with the tail-end low, it would finally start (I burned up one starter), but would be extremely rich and not clear up until about a block of driving. I still don't have that worked out--I believe it may be an internal carb issue (gasket, seal, float, etc??) or something. Things that really helped: I changed to Denso IK20 Iridium plugs with a 1mm gap. That must have given it a much hotter spark. In fact, the gap could be a little greater than the 1-1.1mm specified for the truck. I checked in the air filter box, and it was completely soaked with sludge. I cleaned the box and changed the filter, and it ran even better. I also changed the fuel filter--got one similar to what was on the truck at the local parts store. I've had the truck going on 3 years now, and about a month ago, it wouldnt start at all. I wasn't about to ruin another starter, so I looked into the distributor and found that the points had somehow completely closed and would remain so even when bumped by the cam. Well, you have to have six hands, a feeler gauge, screwdriver, and an adjustable mechanic's mirror plus a light to adjust the points inside that sideways-mounted little distributor. After it was adjusted and the points dressed up a little with an abrasive--it fired right up. I since ordered a distrubutor cap, points, and condensor from Japanoid. It's not listed on their website. You have to call, and they do have the correct parts--at least for mine. I have not put the new parts on yet. I also ordered new brake shoes, front pads, wheel cylinder repair kits, etc. from them. I too have the new $70 Sambar book from Lulu, and it's helpful, but not specific enough--at least with the problems I've had.
I just cranked this thing over a lot with a plug out and I am getting intermittent spark, it will look nice and hot, low, nothing, then pick back up once in a while. Is this the Coil?
to check the coil, disconnect the big wire in the middle, put your pinky finger in there and have a buddy crank the engine... make sure he's not drinking anything or it will come out his nose when he starts laughing just kidding... seriously, if the point gap is incorrect it won't spark right, or if you have a burnt spot there it may cause the same thing. the points are what signals the coil when to spark. i have seen a grain of sand get in between a set of points that stopped the motor from running at the dunes.
Does anyone have a pic of what the points should look like? I was just looking at them and one side is low with a point and the other side is a little thicker but dished in. This is different than small engines which I have experience with so I am not sure about it. Thanks.
Sambar points You know, points always periodically have to be changed out in points-type ignitions. It would never hurt to give that a try--probably at least along with a new condenser, cap, and rotor. I know from my 50's and 60's Fords. I still have 2 '66 Galaxies. I'm looking at my new points from Japanoid. Subaru Genuine Parts 22186KA030 (029350-0850). Both of the little discs that touch in the points are the same thickness--about 1/32" each. There isn't an indentation--only a hole in the middle of one disc where it is riveted to the fixed part of the points assembly. I ordered the parts from Dean Asada at Japanoid. He would remember me--I'm from Mississippi.
I just did order a new condensor and points from him about 2 hours ago. I already have new plugs and distributor cap/rotor. Should arrive shortly and I will change this out. Thanks.
THANK-YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP! I am so happy right now. This truck runs like a top, in the end it was the points and condenser that did the trick. Now it runs better than it ever has! Now one last question for anyone with a Sambar. The CO-HC level screw (richness level) was something I was fiddling with and now I am paranoid it is set too low. I was told this could burn out the engine if it is too low. So could someone with a NA Sambar screw in theirs and count the number of full turns until it is at bottom? I don't have a detector to set this the right way. Or does someone have the setting turn count? Thanks again.
with the truck idling, turn it in gradually (1/4 turn at a time) and listen for the idle to fall off, don't kill the engine, just listen for a change in the idle. then turn it out until the idle picks up and then falls off again. put it in the middle. i.e. 3 turns from weak idle to weak idle, put it to 1.5.
Thanks! I will give that a try. Also going to set the timing on the truck, should make it even better!
So fiddled with the timing and now have it set at 6 deg BTDC. It was over 14 deg BTDC before so I will try this out and see how it works. So far this truck runs amazing. If anyone is having problems try changing the points. They are cheap and may solve your problem
Under your Signature let us know what you have! On my vehicle there's a set of Points next to the condenser inside the Distributor. Back in the Day we called it a basic ignition system. Limestone
Search "Kettering ignition System" diagram and click on the wikipedia. Gives a clear & concise explanation of what we had prior to transistors and electronics. Fred
It is worth noting that all Supercharged/EFI models and all carbed models after the middle of 1991 have some form of electronic ignition. @machew671, judging from your profile picture, you have a truck with square headlights.. it would be at least a 1993 model and would not have points.
