Here is a diagram of my carb. Can anyone help me determine what screws do what? #30 is the screw i have been using to adjust my carb and that seems to be the only screw that does anything. im trying to get the hold/cold IDLE working right.... was hoping someone already went thru this excersise and knew what the various screws do and which ones i need to be tinkering with. Thanks!
possibly.......whats the best way to troubleshoot that....just inspect each hose and make sure it's not damaged?
run an unlit propane torch with the valve slightlv opened around the vacuum lines..the idle speed will increase when the leak sucks up the raw propane...you can also squirt soapy water from a spray bottle on the lines and look for bubbling...another way is to use a length of hose or rubber tubing...place one end to your ear and move the other end around on the vacuum lines..you will hear the sucking leak very easily through the tube
Only one vacuum line goes to fast idle solenoid. Top solenoid. Check it first! Mine was not broken at solenoid end (too easy) it was broken where it is hardest to get at.
thanks guys ill give it a try.....getting tired of reving the engine just to keep the truck from stalling out until it warms up.... i must have turned every screw on the carb when i was trying to "adjust" it before winter. After i did the tune up and changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.....the truck had a REALLY high idle.......so it must have been tuned up to run hard due to shitty plugs etc..... at some point... now i have the oposite problem.....
ok so more or less i think i got everything figured out. When i first statup the truck it runs really hard for a few minutes...and then drops down once the truck warms up....so i think after playing around with all the CARB adjustments its finally working good. to me it seems like it might be running too HARD when i first start it up...but its better than me trying to stay on the gas to keep it alive. My next question is.......what can i do about the smoke? When i first start the truck and it runs hard until it warms up....i get alot of smoke. I went to Pep Boys and i saw some stuff they sell which allegedlly reduced smoking of the engine....but im scared to put it in...not sure what effects it will have. Anyone have experiance with additives to get rid of a smoking Mini?
smoke is white/gray....and only really smokes when it first starts.....until it warms up a bit.....then it does not smoke when i drive or if it's idle from what i can tell. i did do an oil change recently....and noticed i only took out like 1/2 a quart of oil and put in like 3...so i think it does burn oil..... used 10w-40 should i go with something thicker maybe?
Gray means steam and running rich. Should just be white smoke for warmup periode until condensation in exhaust is steamed out. As for OIL, Well I gambled with mine against advice and went with 10W30 Valvoline Full Syntetic. At first I tought I had made a grave mistake but then after cleaning all the sludge it settled down after second oil change, now mine barely takes any oil anymore. When you look inside valve cover now it is a lot cleaner and you can actually see components now instead of muck.
so if it's running rich i need to turn the choke down some? this is the first and only mini truck i have ever had/seen so im not sure how they should normally sound / operate to me it seems like it is running REALLY hard at first...(which is where all the smoke is happening) and then quiets down... not sure if this is normal for it to run so hard at initial startup or not....
Well if this is any help mine turns about 3000 RPM on startup then settles down a little bit and right down to 950 RPM once warm. This takes about 15 minutes in winter and about 10 in summer. Did you spray your plug wires with silicone spray, this helps keep moisture away?
Yes, there is a whole thread (Tachometer Installation ) on the subject even explains which one works best.
