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Can't Get Brake Pressure!

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Mischa, Apr 12, 2019.

  1. Mischa

    Mischa New Member

    Rebuilt calipers with a seal kit because the passenger side caliper stopped opening.

    While calipers were off the lines drained.

    After replacing calipers (valve up) and bleeding the system, I still can't get consistent pressure in my brakes.

    Currently I need to pump the brakes 3+ times to get the brakes to engage. Not satisfactory for driving! Especially the mountain roads around where I live. . . .

    While bleeding the system (which I did excessively), I didn't encounter any air bubbles coming out of the release valve. Started with the rear brake drum (only one of which has a bleeder valve. . .), then the passenger, then driver.

    Doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere.

    Do I need to bleed more? Is there a valve somewhere on the master cylinder that needs to be bled?
  2. Maximal

    Maximal Active Member

    so you let the whole system go dry including the master cylinder? if the master cylinder went dry, you might have to bleed it separately first or even bench bleed it then work the calipers/drums, its next to impossible to get all of the air out through a completely drained system only through bleeding the calipers. its best to put vise grips on the soft lines of the calipers when removing them so you lose no fluid
  3. Mischa

    Mischa New Member

    Thanks for the info!

    I"m not positive I let the whole system go dry, but its a good bet considering that the calipers were off for a few days and the lines were not blocked. . .

    I'm guessing the master cylinder is underneath the dash just bellow the fluid where I input the fluid?


    Found the master cylinder. Bled it in place, which was a pain in the ass but doable. Definitely had some air in it.

    Then bled brakes AGAIN. No air bubbles at all.

    Still have to pump 3+ times to get any braking power. Local mechanic (who refuses to work on this truck) says that my back brakes are too far open due to the system being bled, and that I need to pressurize it while they are clamped down.
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2019
  4. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    If you let the rears expand with the drums off, yes.. you likely need to take a look and see if the cups are seated in the cylinder correctly. Make sure all the brakes are assembled before bleeding.

    Maximal already explained what I was thinking, so let me elaborate..

    - make sure everything is good with the rear brakes, and they are adjusted correctly
    - with all 4 brakes assembled and ready to go, bench bleed the master cylinder.
    disconnect the hydraulic line from it, and quickly put a finger over the hole.
    have a friend very slowly pump the brake pedal a couple times, and all the air should expel quickly.
    put the line back on. (always make sure the master cylinder stays full)
    - move to the rear bleeder, and again.. have someone pump the brake 3 times slowly, and release the valve.
    remember, the pedal needs to stay to the floor the entire time the valve is open.. don't release the pedal until the valve is closed.
    - repeat front left, then front right.
    - if it still fails to build pressure, I'd suspect an internal leak at the master cylinder. If the seals at the calipers were suffering, it's likely
    the seals that produce the pressure are suffering as well. All the same system.. all the same exposure.
  5. Mischa

    Mischa New Member

    Thanks @Don-in-Japan for the detailed explanation. Did exactly what you said and it worked fantastically.

    Pressure is better than it was before I had the calipers rebuilt!

    Because I didn't have a friend to help, and my brake fluid was already flushed and clean, I used a closed loop hose system. By attaching a long piece of clear tubing from the bleeder valve all the way over to the brake fluid reservoir about the master cylinder I could pump the brakes continuously without introducing air into the system when I released pressure from the brake pedal. Plus it was faster because I didn't need to open and close the valve! Found some dude on youtube who did this. . . definitely not my idea.

    Don-in-Japan likes this.
  6. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    Great idea, and glad it worked out, but if I'm seeing the pic correctly, it looks like the calipers are on the wrong side. Bleeder port is always on the top pointing upwards. Air always goes up towards the bleeder!

    I'm assuming both calipers were removed at the same time, rebuilt, and them put back on, correct?

    This would explain why you had such a hard time bleeding in the first place. It's a common thing we see in our shop when people replace their calipers themselves, and can't get pressure.
  7. Mischa

    Mischa New Member

    No wayyyy. Bummer.

    I had taken photos of them BEFORE I took them off to ensure i put them back on the same way. I thought it didn't make sense the bleeder was on the bottom, but figured it best to put them back on the way I found them. . .

    Thanks again!
  8. Don-in-Japan

    Don-in-Japan Member

    Should have an "L" or "R" on the caliper. Can't see your caliper that well, but easy to double check. Driver's side should be "R".

    Attached Files:

  9. native

    native Member

    On the DD51T is there only 1 bleeder on the rear brakes?

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