Hey folks, my blower motor is going out, it still runs but the bearings in it are shot as it just started making an awful noise which gets louder the higher the speed. I bought a new one as they are really cheap, and I also noticed Daihatsu seems to use the same part on pretty much every model. So my question is this, Has anyone changed it yet? I can't find any how to vid online or any shop or even owners manual. I have an idea where it is located, and I think I may need to remove the dash to get to it, so any prior experience tips will help me. Thanks!!
Never had to do it. Looked at it when I had the center section and guage cluster out. Looked like it would be a PITA.
Mike, it helps if you add some details about your rig to the signature line. Helps the rest of us know what your talking about.
J., Like Jigs suggested, it really helps to know what yr, model your talking about. Mine is left hand drive, and I've had the dash out a few times now, chasing some electrical problems! I'm not sure on your skill level, and maybe your a little apprehensive. Don't be! It's really not that bad! Mine being an older unit, (89), was pretty dirty underneath, so that gave me a pretty good chance to really clean it up while I was in there! For me, I like to plan my moves, and remove old clips carefully, so as not to break older brittle trim, and such. This is where the trim removal tools really come in handy! I like to zip tie as many thing up and out of the way, like the brake resevoir, it keeps them from, falling back in front of where your trying to work! Label, label, label everything! I can't emphasize this enough! There's numerous way's to label. I use old phone wire, it's super thin, and no two wires have the same color code, especially when I'm in heavy grease and oil! In this application, masking tape and a sharpy, works well. It'll save you a lot of time! Weather your unit is left, or right hand drive, your heater fan assembly has to be in the middle of your dash, even if it's offset slightly. I'm thinking your blower motor, which attaches to the fan,(squirrel cage), on the right side, of the ctr. console. Removing the ctr. part of the dash, first, if I remember correctly. Magnetic tray's help a lot for holding screws, take pics if you need to, their easy to erase when your done, (great references)! Just a thought, your going to be in there, now's the time to inspect, the heater core, and flush, clean, (gently). The heater hose are probably original, if their soft or mushy, now's the time!!! At least think about replacing, enough hose from the core to an easier access point, and there you can use a coupling, and replace the rest down the rd. if you want, you have options! By flushing the system, you remove all the old gunk, that has accumulated in your system! I'm pretty sure that you have to split the heater case that holds the cage, that's attached to the heater motor, but those are spring clips, no big deal, really! Be care full with the air damper, because the foam on the damper door can get brittle. You'll notice, and proceed carefully while cleaning, weather you use a vacuum or mild soap, and wash it! I like to use Di-Electric grease on all my Electrical connections on re installation, it'll really pay off down the rd. I even removed the plastic, air ducting and washed it in soapy water, it was really easy! Don't let all this scare you, it's not that tough of a job, just a little time consuming! While your there you might want to lube the solid cables for the controls, and definitely the contact points on the control unit, with silicone, (slippery, yet won't hold dirt)! Make sure the plug is the same from the old one to the new one. I'm sure I'll think of something else, I usually do! Good Luck! Limestone
I've been thinking about this blower motor fix, and as memory serves me right, I don't think you have to remove the guage cluster, at all. The blower motor and housing(cage), is centered next to the guage cluster. On mine, it was nice because the glove compartment, was on the right, next to the blower motor.
Limestone, Thanks for the information in the post(s) above. I've finally gotten back on the Hijet after about 2 years off building a house and with some help here on the forum, had the first drive today in almost 3 years. Timing belt snapped which brought about a bunch of fun! She's running great now but the time spent on the tree farm turned the blower fan into a mouse hotel. I really want to be able to use the heat and AC (yes it works!) but the fan is stuffed up, almost nothing except an overpower slap in the face of mouse piss come out of the vents. Can I get the fan cleaned out without removing the blower motor and "splitting the housing" as you referenced above? I'm apprehensive about tearing in there but I figure if I can pull and replace the head, this should be too bad?? Thank yo again!
Steve, I'm really not sure about that, or not, and I don't want to misguide you. I'm thinking that you might want to dismantle as you go, because you might not know for certain, how far the mice got in, and what they pissed on and what they didn't! A trick my old friend taught me yrs ago, was to put some moth balls in a kinda home made small basket, made out of a kinda mesh material, like what you buy onions in, or anything similar, and place 5 or 6 Moth Balls, in it, and wire it in an inconspicuous place, as to bother the Mice's nose, to keep them away. We do this on, our 4 Wheeler's, at the hunt Camp, tractors, Mini truck! It has really helped as those buggers work on their nest while were sleeping! Good Luck! Limestone
We’ll I dove in and it really wasn’t too bad. Dash comes out really. Hardest part were a couple sticking electrical connectors but overall not too bad. I’d tell anyone remotely mechanical to go for it. As for the mouse house, it was more like an apartment building. Entire fan, plenum around the fan and cavity in the body where fan draws in outside air was packed full. Fortunately it was all natural materials. No wire coating or carpet pad. Blower is working great. Now my issue is the linkage. It’s never really worked correctly but now it’s really bad. I’m trying to get it set on defrost and I’ll just leave it there but in order to get to blow out of the defrost ports, the selector is on cab/floor position. It’s like the entire selector is three setting off to the right. I’m worried that even though the air is moving it won’t be heated because as we now, they only blow heat on defrost and feet. I guess I can take the ECU out of the dash and start it to see if the air is hot. I’d really like to fix the linkage but I’m not really sure what’s it’s supposed to look like. Mine was clearly “fixed” by someone at some point along the way. Anyone have a diagram or photo of the heater linkage the way it’s supposed to look?
