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Better Alternators

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Jigs-n-fixtures, Jan 1, 2018.

  1. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Seems that all the Minitrucks use a what is known in the racing community as a “mini Denso” unit which is popular with folks building race cares due to the small size and light weight.

    This gives us a ready supply of rebuilt alternators with significantly more amperage capacity, and a far lower price than the stock ones for our trucks.

    If you go to eBay and search for: “mini denso race”, you will to get quite a few results in the $80 to $130 range, with outputs ranging from the stock 30-amps to 120-amps. Now a lot of them are one wire units that connect directly to th battery. But there also three and four wire versions, some of which come with the appropriate plug assembly.

    If the position of the leads on the back of the alternator don’t match yours, it is fairly easy to reclock,the alternator, and new plug assemblies are available if you need to rewire your truck.

    First reclocking: you take off the rear dust cover, remove the four bolts holding the two halves together, and rotate the back to any of the three other positions. The just reinstall the bolts, and dust cover and you’re done.

    There are basically three wiring schemes:

    First is the one wire, where the regulator senses the voltage at the aleternator, and regulates it to 14.6 volts.

    Second, is the three wire, where the main output connects to the battery, one 14ga wire comes from the on position of the ignition switch, and one 14ga wire hooks to the positive post at the battery, so the alternator senses the voltage at the battery, and the regulator adjusts the output to 14.6 Volts there.

    Third is a four wire hookup. This is the same as the three wire. But adds on more wire, that is the ground for an idiot light that will come on if the voltage at the battery is 11Volts or less when the ignition is on.

    All are easy to wire.
  2. Cole

    Cole Member

    Nice! Very good to know for future truck upgrades!! Thanks
  3. harley rose

    harley rose Member

    Killer Jigs : Poking around,
    Denso Mini Alternator
    seemed to provide more search results.... THANKS
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Update: Reclocking is a bit more complicated than I posted. You have to undo the four screws holding the field wires, and bend them up before you can separate the two halves of the body.

    Then you have to pry the stator winding assembly up, and out of the lower half of the body, so you can reclock it before putting everything back together.

    Really not hard if your mechanically adept.

    I’ll try to do a pictorial instruction post in the next couple of weeks. After, I finish the current project on the truck.
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2020
  5. Acerguy

    Acerguy Moderator Staff Member

    Nice info. Wish I had seen this a year or so ago when I had to have mine rebuilt!
  6. Hey guys, I'm totally new to my mini truck, although it's been kind of a pain in my ass lol (this is my second mini in 3 months) the first was to old and to much so I got rid of it and bought a 99 Suzuki carry db52t and I love it but already I'm having problems with my charging system. After an hour drive on a charged battery, with headlights and heat on, my battery is drained. I know my battery is old and I think it's toast but I want to upgrade my alternator anyway. I plan on running lights, winch, stereo, all the off road comforts. I'm more of an ATV mechanic than a vehicle mechanic but I want to learn and do all the upgrades myself. I need help to know which alternator I should buy, 1 wire, 3 wire or 4 wire. Which will be easiest to mate up to my 99 carry. If any of you guys can help me, I'd be forever grateful. Thanks guys
  7. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Easiest will be to match your existing unit. That said I went from the three wire (two on the plug, and the battery lead) to a 4-wire, when I upgraded the alternator on my Hijet.

    I went with the four wire, because I wanted the voltage regulator to be sensing, and working off of voltage at the battery, and not at the alternator. Rather than take out the stock charge wire, which winds past the starter on it’s way to the battery, I left it in place, and installed a new 4-gauge feed from the alternator to the battery. Electrically this leaves them in parallel, and saves a bunch of effort to figure out the starter wiring.

    I had to re-clock the 90-amp Mini-Denso unit I used, but that isn’t that difficult. And it was only about $115 off eBay.
  8. Ok that's excellent, I'm gonna order a mini denso and see what I can do. Sounds a little intimadating but I'm going for it lol thanks a lot pal, it's very appreciated
  9. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I recommend you get a look at your alternator first. There are other possible alternators, and some of the newer trucks have the one with three mount points, and not the two of the “mini-Denso” alternators.

    You need to be sure you can mount what you get.

    I did an eBay search,and found this from beforward in Japan:

    As the stock alternator of your series of Carry. It is a Mitsubishi Electric unit, and the Mini-Denso, may or may not bolt in, and you will have to get the new harness connector if you do get it in.

    If you think you have the skill set, or an advisor who does, you may be able to make it work.
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2020
  10. I'm gonna take my time because I want it right the first try lol so today, before I remove my alternator, I'm cleaning all grounds up and adding an extra from battery to top bolt on alternator. I'm very new to working on vehicles but I know the basics with working on ATV's all my life. I listen to a Canadian tire mechanic, after he changed me $50 and basically told me nothing, I ended up spending another$130 on a battery ffs! I took my truck out last night to stress test the charging system and a 2 hour drive with lights and heat on, my battery was very low, not low enough that it won't start my truck but a lot lower than it was when I put it in. I also noticed that even with a brand new battery, my headlights are dim. Does that sound like I may have a short somewhere. With a brand new battery, shouldn't my headlights be nice and bright? And again , thank you so much for your help
  11. Thanks Fred, your input is very appreciated. So maybe you can help with this. I just come in from working on my carry and reground all grounds and checked fuses. In the relay fuse box there is a 70a fuse that's bolted in on both sides. Well it seems to have bad burn marks on the fuse link inside it so I checked the fuse for current and when I touch the burnt parts of the fuse link, it reads no current. The fuse isn't blown because the fuse link is still connected but would that 70a fuse have anything to do with my charging system ?

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