Seems that all the Minitrucks use a what is known in the racing community as a “mini Denso” unit which is popular with folks building race cares due to the small size and light weight. This gives us a ready supply of rebuilt alternators with significantly more amperage capacity, and a far lower price than the stock ones for our trucks. If you go to eBay and search for: “mini denso race”, you will to get quite a few results in the $80 to $130 range, with outputs ranging from the stock 30-amps to 120-amps. Now a lot of them are one wire units that connect directly to th battery. But there also three and four wire versions, some of which come with the appropriate plug assembly. If the position of the leads on the back of the alternator don’t match yours, it is fairly easy to reclock,the alternator, and new plug assemblies are available if you need to rewire your truck. First reclocking: you take off the rear dust cover, remove the four bolts holding the two halves together, and rotate the back to any of the three other positions. The just reinstall the bolts, and dust cover and you’re done. There are basically three wiring schemes: First is the one wire, where the regulator senses the voltage at the aleternator, and regulates it to 14.6 volts. Second, is the three wire, where the main output connects to the battery, one 14ga wire comes from the on position of the ignition switch, and one 14ga wire hooks to the positive post at the battery, so the alternator senses the voltage at the battery, and the regulator adjusts the output to 14.6 Volts there. Third is a four wire hookup. This is the same as the three wire. But adds on more wire, that is the ground for an idiot light that will come on if the voltage at the battery is 11Volts or less when the ignition is on. All are easy to wire.