i just got a 93suzuki 4x4 the axle lock button on the dash, when i push it is there a light on the dash thats suppose to let me know if its working i dont know how this feature works
My truck has to be running. If you pull your 4wd lever into 4-hi does it come on? Try it when the truck is running, and the lever is in the 4wd position. Maybe cycle it several times as well. My only light is on the switch itself. There is no light that I know of for the axle lock on the dash by the guages, the "axle lock' is just the name for automatic locking hubs for the front wheels. If it does not come on, maybe your truck is not engaging the hubs... might have a vacuum line leak, I think they are vacuum actuated. Have you checked for switch operation with a multimeter? Have power to the switch etc?
axle lock light light must be burned, out the switch on the 4x4 lever was also bad, wired the two wires together pulled up the 4x4 lever and it worked thanks guys
Well first of all pulling the 4WD lever should always be done in neutral in a stopped position if possible. The 4WD light and the axle light are 2 seperate entities. The one in the dash (first pic) indicates that transfer case is engaged to front differential and locked. Axle lock means front differential has been asked for axle lock. If both lights are lit this status shows everything is A"OK". If 4WD light is on but not amber one, this means your diff is locked and will unlock at first chance it can do so safely. So pull 4WD lever in HIGH4WD or "LOW4WD "with gear shift in neutral. This activates a switch on 4WD lever mechanism that sends power to control module that in turn sends power to first "VSV"and axle lock switch. Then start moving slowly so axle gears can align if they aren't already then press Axle lock switch. The amber light should come on immediately because this just indicates that the control module has received your demand and has sent the signal to second "VSV" (Vacuum Switch Valve). When green 4WD light comes on this means the vacuum switches have successfully moved fork to its locked position and you are in axle lock & 4WD. When you press Axle lock swith to disengage front diff; amber light will turn off immediately but Green "4WD" light might take a while. It will wait until all torque on gears is removed before sliding fork into detent position. At this point only; will green 4WD light turn off and be free wheeling. Unless U push lever down to 2WD position this will turn off green 4WD light but not necesarily mean axle is disengaged. This is why I only push lever down after 4WD light turns off. Hope this is clear enough! If you have the electrical diagram pic 3 shows the switch and if you don't fourth picture is the diagram.
There was a slight error in one of my paragraphs (page #7). Sorry. Green 4WD light will immediately turn off if you push lever in 2WD.
I see people are still having problems understanding how this works but I can't be any clearer than post #7. Sorry, maybe somebody else could give it a try. Being french and having to translate everything maybe I'm not explaining myself good enough. Please ask your questions through these threads so others can benefit from the answers.
I've got a phantom 4WD problem and am working through it after reading this and related threads so I thought I'd add some of my own findings. I have a '93 Carry DD51T with EL+5 Manual and 4WD, no Diff lock. During a snowstorm last week I also found out the hard way that my 4wd wasn't kicking in, even though pulling the lever causes the front driveshaft to turn and the Axle Lock light comes on (I wasn't seeing the green 4WD light, and only realized it existed after reading about it HERE). But there I was stuck in my parking spot with 1 back wheel spinning, not to mention barely making it up tiny hills in traffic - the shame! In any case after reading as much as I could and getting my hands on an extremely useful hand-pump vacuum tester I got into some diagnostics on the front diff actuator and its dual vacuum valves. I had about 15 in Hg pressure on the vacuum line heading into the switches, so that was ok, and all lines were connected and clear. One slight puzzle is the way the system uses a little vent line that attaches under the passenger seat - at first it seemed like a mistake but it looks like it's part of the mechanism, basically allowing a relief entry/exit depending on the switch positions. Then I got into the electrical and learned that, in my case anyways, pulling the 4wd lever turns on both switches and also the axle lock light (on dash) regardless of whether front diff is engaged or not. No green 4wd light at this point. Next test: bypassing the switches. The vac line routing around this zone is pretty chaotic so I figured I'd draw it out and try to make some sense of it (see attached). What it seems to come down to is that when the switches close vacuum is directed to the top side of the actuator. When they're open it's not exactly clear to me how the circuit works, but the result is vacuum to the bottom nipple (there's a lot of looping in and out with the vent line, and 2 delay or check valves in the mix). I hooked vac line directly to actuator and BOOM - green 4wd light, front drive axle spinning with wheels, much rejoicing. However, just ceasing vacuum to the top of the actuator does not necessarily disengage - some vac must be applied to the bottom to, I guess, help pull the rod back? So after more testing my problem was a dead "B" vacuum switch (the forward of the two), stuck in the open position. It really does seem to need the two switches to work. By disconnecting the bottom air line of the actuator I can now engage 4wd (!) and until I find a replacement valve I can disengage by keeping the hand-pump in the truck with me and popping the seat to manually pump the actuator back down - still less work than manual hub locks I guess! Thanks for all the info on this and the related threads - I most definitely wouldn't have got this far without it!
Ok, old thread but closest I found to my issue. I have both axle lock and diff lock buttons lit up and won't turn off. Rear is definitely locked and front diff definitely engaged, neither disengaging either. Looking for a common denominator between the two? Vacuums are sourced from different manifold ports, so no sharing of lines. Both have the same check/delay valves in-line and same solenoids, and both switches will be grounded, but nothing else obvious to me. Seems a little doubtful that both switches or two of four solenoids or both actuators are bad at the same time. This is a 1994 Carry dump body, F6a, 4 speed. I haven't dug into it yet, but hoping to perhaps get a clue before I get started on it. Thanking one and all.
Man I can't help ya with that one. I've never had problems with mine and wouldn't know where to start. However .....my day is coming, I'm sure.
Hey thanks, rugerman. So I dug into it some yesterday, found the front axle actuator "hot-hosed". That is to say that the top inlet was directly connected with the source vacuum, and was pretty obviously wrong. I have another truck to refer to, so connected properly, but light stayed on. I hot-hosed vacuum to the lower inlet, same thing. Moving on to the rear, hoses were correct. Time to break out the floor jack to find which actuator nipples unlock front and rear, both are now unlocked and can be driven on pavement, but both lights are still on. At this point, I'm guessing it's failed slave solenoids, but could be the dash switches. I've had a dash switch out once to clean contacts inside and replace the bulb, and I think I remember that power to the bulb merely comes from within the switch. There's no consent sensor or switch at the axles or the solenoids that I can see, but what do I know. I'll try having a look at wiring diagrams, but came to me last night that I also seem to remember that I should be able to hear solenoids clicking without the engine running. And another relay somewhere under the dash??!! Later on in today's adventures I guess, got two others to go through first.
The Danko manual for my Hijet has a decent diagram of the switch and vacuum circuits for the 4wd system.
Long time, no follow-up, my bad. Seems my problem is with the 4WD Control Module misbehaving, as they are apparently known to do. I got that little tidbit of information from a couple of people at a couple of the parts companies that advertise their gigantic used parts inventories, but that's all I've been able to get from any of them. I guess all the modules from all the Carry's in all the salvage yards are all gone. So. Anybody out there have one kicking around? Supposedly, the last four digits of the part number are the important ones, maybe not. One guy said they're pretty much all the same. Pretty much. What the hell does that mean. Where is ol' Spaner when I think I need him? Again, 1994 Carry dd51b dump body, thanks to everyone.
I need the same 4x4 control module. I’m wondering if I can replay the module with a relay or two. I downloaded the electrical schematic that’s on this thread but will need to print it out to see enough detail. Anyone have experience bypassing the control module on a Suzuki Carry??
I've got no skin in this game, but just to add a bit of encouragement. Most of my working years were as a fleet mechanic for Arizona Public Service Company, better known as APS, serving electric power to different areas throughout the state of Arizona. All the servicemen & line crews used bucket/boom trucks in their work and all contained various circuits for engine control (on/off & speed) along with the various manual & electric hydraulic controls so this consisted of relays, solenoids, valves, etc. This was before everything became solid-state so we used a variety of Single Pole, Double Pole, and Latching relays along with the different types of switches needed to control the relays. If you can determine what is needed to happen, you can design a circuit to accomplish the task. The module in this discussion can be replaced by other means, but it will be somewhat physically larger. The solid-state modules developed for various tasks are normally smaller and as reliable as what they have replaced but will leave you in the lurch when they go belly up, whereas relays & such usually give some warning before they completely fail and components can be individually replaced when& if. Check out McMaster-Carr along with other various surplus suppliers to see what is available as to switches & relays. There is a lot of different items floating around out there at different places. The internet is your friend when searching. If it was mine, I would go for it and design & fabricate a replacement for the module, as I always enjoyed a good challenge. Shouldn't really need more than a good understanding of automotive electricity for a project such as this. Good luck to you. Fred
One possible solution is to bypass the unobtanium controller entirely, install a manual, two-way vacuum switch that connects directly to the actuator: Pull the switch up, the hubs engage; push it down, they disengage. Mike Festiva has a YouTube video detailing this ("Maintenance Guide for Suzuki...." at 17:43). I've detailed my solution--a la Mike Festiva--in a thread here titled "Axle lock with mind of its own."
