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Automatic CVT Transmission Slow to Engage

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by MrJPolito, Sep 12, 2022.

  1. MrJPolito

    MrJPolito Active Member

    Hello again,

    One of the other primary things that I need to fix with my 1997 Subaru Sambar KS4 (4wd, automatic transmission with supercharger) since I picked it up from the port is the transmission being slow to engage or possibly slipping while I am down/upshifting at low speeds.

    If I am parked and try to reverse or go forward, it takes a lot of RPM for the CVT clutch or whatever to engage. Once it's moving and going pretty fast, it shifts up and down fine.

    I'm also hearing a lot of squeaking coming from the engine when I slow down / downshift. It sounds almost like a belt slipping. I haven't been able to pinpoint it because it only happens while driving.

    I've already replaced my CVT brushes (photos below, old brushes left, new brushes right). No idea if I installed them wrong or something. I wasn't sure if both brushes needed to have the angle facing the same way.

    IMG_20220912_131601_006.jpg IMG_20220912_131557_763.jpg

    I'm also pretty sure that my transmission came with regular ATF in it. It didn't look like CVT fluid at all. I drained it and replaced it with CVT fluid but I didn't flush it or anything. Might still be the wrong mixture.

    Another issue that I've noticed since I got the truck is that there is a distinct "grinding gears" feeling when I pull the automatic shift lever to go from park to drive or reverse. I have to shove the lever to get it to move into the next letter sometimes. I have absolutely no idea how this lever attaches to the transmission, or what moving parts are in there, but since it's at the front of the car and the transmission is at the back I'm not sure what this grinding feeling is.

    So tl;dr I have three symptoms, possibly related:
    1. From a standstill, it takes a lot of RPM to shift into drive or reverse
    2. Squealing sound from engine rear when the truck is downshifting
    3. Grinding feeling in the automatic shift lever when shifting

    Things I've already tried:
    1. Replacing the CVT brushes
    2. New CVT fluid in the transmission


    Any ideas? I'm new to the CVT transmissions and I'm not sure what else I should look at.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Jelly

    Jelly New Member

    try take apart the trans pan to see if there is a lot of metal
     
  3. MrJPolito

    MrJPolito Active Member

    Finally got around to taking the pan off today. Photos below:

    IMG_20221125_173907_456.jpg IMG_20221125_173910_488.jpg

    Doesn't seem like a significant amount of metal shavings to me. At least not for a 25 year old car.

    Anyone have any idea what else to look at while I have the pan off?
     
  4. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    What CVT fluid did you use? There are a couple of options are they are not interchangeable.

    Otherwise, since you have ruled out catastrophic belt failure, common failure points on the CVT are the fluid pump (which I think is now discontinued), the brushes (which you have already replaced) and the powder clutch itself. The clutch is a wear item, and 25+ years of service is a lot to ask of one.

    I do recommend turning the brush on the left side of the second photo around, so that the "points" both go up. It will eventually wear down to provide better contact, but that may take a while and you will have a very small contact patch in the meantime.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2022
  5. MrJPolito

    MrJPolito Active Member

    The CVT fluid that I've been able to find at Walmart and O'Reilly's in town is called "Valvoline Full Synthetic Continuously Variable Transmission Fluid (CVT)". Haven't seen many other options around and I'm not sure what Subaru recommends.

    Applications listed for Subaru are "Lineartronic CVTF"

    Here's what the bottle looks like:

    1e4fb386-ad79-46b5-8de6-b39ac4b0d4f6.c646dd5ddaf0f53ecf5dd7c1097db522.png 4c70f28a-8b1e-45be-b8ce-90f6c7ac8247.177f1a1ebae03c9e0924bf5a20d1e555.jpeg

    Am I safe to put this back in?

    Thanks!
     
  6. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    Any aftermarket CVT fluid that works for the Subaru Justy would be just fine. Autozone lists both Castrol Transmax CVT and STP CVT Fluid as options, so I would not hesitate to use either one of those.

    As long as it is the *RED* CVT fluid, you should be good.. There are Green (such as Subaru CVT II) and Blue CVT (such as Eneos Eco CVT) fluids out there too, but those are different and incompatible products.
     
  7. MrJPolito

    MrJPolito Active Member

    Huh, alright, this one doesn't show compatibility for Subaru Justy so I probably shouldn't be using it. Had no idea that there were three different kinds. The labels on the containers make them all sound interchangeable. I'll see if I can return these unopened bottles to Walmart even though I've left them outside in the back of the truck bed for months in the rain (lol).
     
  8. MrJPolito

    MrJPolito Active Member

  9. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    Ah, I could not find that list online. It lists both "Subaru eCVTF" and "Subaru High Torque CVTF" so it should be okay. As I noted, as long as the CVT fluid is red and not green, blue, or some other color, it should be fine. (which is incredibly confusing, since normal "Dextron" ATF is also red, but not the same stuff)
     
  10. Awright

    Awright New Member

    Hey everyone, I figured I would continue this thread since its closely related. I am pretty savvy with the Kei's, we have them all over out here, but this is my first CVT (2wd). My wife was backing it out and when she went to put it in Drive, she got nothing, and that was all she wrote. I got the rear on stands, the linkage is good, fluid is good. When I shift the trans, nothing, no wheel movement at all. Are we looking at a belt failure here? It did have a couple of the symptoms that Mr. J mentioned, like the need to rev following a R to D shift etc. Again I chalked that up to a CVT-ism because I'm not familiar.
    Anyone have an opinion? And if it is a belt, anyone have an exploded diagram of one of these? Thanks!
     
  11. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    It is far more likely to be a powder clutch problem. It is sort of like a torque converter, but filled with iron powder. Over time, the powder gets worn to the point that the particles get too small and find their way out of the clutch pack, leaving little/nothing left to do the job. It is an expensive part ($500-700), but once replaced it should last another 20+ years.

    I have all of the powder clutch part numbers on the parts spreadsheet in the references section, along with the brushes that should be replaced at the same time. There are also links to the cheapest places I have found to buy them from as well. there are 4-5 different and incompatible versions, so take note at the description field to make sure you are ordering the correct one. If you have any uncertainty, I can look up the application, but I will need your VIN.
     

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