hi guys, A good time ago I had a stud on the back axle that had the threads damage. This time I have a broken one in the front axle. (picture View attachment 12491 ) I used this mini truck for snow removal this winter and after the winter because I don't have enough work for 3 trucks I put this one on storage, this summer I try to bring it back to do some extra work. The first thing that I notice was that one of the back wheels wouldn't move and drag, with the help of a sledgehammer, hitting the tires ... finally I got it spinning. While driving it I notice that was some kind of force preventing the truck to develop more speed and was feeling a kind of plastic burn as came out of the truck I could feel the heat coming out of the wheels, so for sure that means the pads had been pressing the rotors the all time. Trying to change the winters tires to the standard tires I broke a stud, it seems that the threads of the studs got pretty rusty and crusty, even using WD40 on the others studs, there was a lot of squeaking and even smoke from the friction. What I learned by experience is that after a wet and salty season you should give a good wash to your truck and maybe do not leave without motion for long. Resuming, now i need to replace a stud and find out how to fix, what I think is a stuck caliper. The main reason for this thread is because the disk that hold the studs is secured with a 30mm nut that is not the same kind people usually refer with a cotter pin but instead has a dented lib over a notch (see picture View attachment 12492 ). So the main question is, do I have to replace that nut after I straighten that bent lib? Or is just fine to bent it again? What kind of tool I should use? I wondering if it will survive and not crack or brake. I would be very appreciated if I you can refer me to links to solve the others problems. Thanks in advance brumas
Me too. Do it all the time when changing cv shafts on customers cars. Sometimes i use a punch and tap it out but most of the time i do like jim. Before you take the caliper off try and just break the bleeder loose. Ive had a few breaks get like its air locked......best i can describe. If it is the rear break that is locked up.......then i would check the emergency break cable. Sometimes they seize while sitting. Ive had decent luck tapping on them or spraying them with aerocroil and tapping. Ive also had bearings lock a wheel up that has been parked for the summer cause no snow to plow in the summer. Good luck
Yea sorry.....i just reread your first post. Before ya take it all apart check the emergency break cable
Good morning all! First, you're going to have problems. 9/10 splitting the rotor from the hub, it's gonn'a warp on you. Result, pedal pulse, and caliper "flutter". The best way I know to do it is in a press. Hold her together until the bolts are out then release the press. Take the rotor to a machine shop to get resurfaced, and they can "true" it for you at the same time; maybeee. No press? take it to the shop, and let them do it. Give em the new stud. (should do all 4) 2) You're gonn'a have to do the front bearings and seals at the same time. "The job" Might just as well put her up on blocks and do the whole thing in one go, instead of piddling around with this or that. Full front hubs, Brakes and fluid all around. Grease and never-seize is your friend. Good for two seasons and a summer storage. Ho, ya, the nut "tang", I use a punch to knock it out of the hole. (to each their own) Reuse is not a problem. I have a thread around on the complete front hubs, including calipers. Also, one for the rear brakes and reassembly. PS, I got 2oz of rust out of the rear lines, whilst putting the new fluid in there...
2oz of rust out the line?!?!?!?!? The last owner must have thought it was a submarine hahaha great info as usual spaner......now im going to be flushing my break lines......just to see what i find hahaha
Hi guys, Thanks so much for your replies! I just got 2 warnings for the 2 initial replies and I came here to put some pictures and notice there was actually good people trying to help. Before I came back to my thread I was trying to find some solutions here in the forum and saw spanner thread "Front Wheel Bearings -4WD-92-98-DD51T-Suzuki" couldn't see any picture of the hub or the disk with the studs but all the areas and parts seemed similar. Reading that thread I was getting scary and by the last reply of spanner it seems that actually I'm in trouble even if I just wanted to replace on stud in that front wheel. So Spanner when you say warp, you mean the rotor or the hub? I already took the bolts that secure the "hub" to the rotors and the big nut with the "tang" and still couldn't split that thing. I can't really understand when you say "hold her together until the bolts are out then release the press" I was trying to take less parts as possible but it seems that It won't be possible. Do I have to take from the strut the all steering knuckle? So when you say that I have to do the front bearings and seals, how many bearings? If you know the names of this parts can you put it here and where did you get them? I just have one day every week to do this so I'm going to start with the calipers to see what made the pads rub all the time, to see if I gain energy to do the rest, and beside that Calgary is a very expensive city, ... machining, parts from else where, this will cost. Thanks one more time for your replies.
Every question you asked is in that thread. Lot's of pictures of the hub(s) as well. Do you have to...? I don't know, all I know is what will work, and that's what I did. If you've already split the rotor from the hub (the four bolts) then you should have the room to change the stud. If the rotor is warped now, then it's warped now, if not, then it isin't. You may get lucky, however, the method that you just used to free the rotor from the hub, does not require removal of the center nut. Without the nut there, the hub is only held in place by the press-fit bearing(only one) part sources are in that thread as well. Not really needed now though. Machine shop work IS expensive, a new rotor is more so, a new hub would be outrageous. If the rotor IS warped, you'll have to do the entire job anyway AND buy a new rotor. Fingers are crossed for you, fortune favors the...
BOLD, Sorry, just reread again. You're there, just DO NOT pound on the rotor with a hammer. The warping factor is now moot. This is what you should do. First, get 4 replacement studs. Next, put the center nut back on and torque it. With the 4-rotor-bolts out. (you wrote that they were ALREADY out) the moot point. Rotate the studs to the up&down positions, and use an air-hammer on the studs to push the rotor off of the hub. As squarely as possible. Rotate the rotor/hub to use all 4 pushing points. No air hammer? Wack the studs with a hammer, I guess?? DO NOT wack on the rotor, again, maybe you're a lucky guy...?
Yesterday i had some time so I decided to tackle this problems. I started doing what spaner told, but the things were not advancing so well so I decided to undo the big center nut again. I try the air hammer, but because my compressor is to small or the gun is not so good, I couldn't make the stud move out it spot. So the last thing i have left was a heavy hammer and with this last procedure it worked, the studs start moving pushing the rotor, until the knurl moved out of the hole, after that if i was gaining space I couldn't see it. So I thought that maybe gravity would help, so I took the knuckle out and ask for my wife to help me. I held the whole set by the hub and my wife start hammering the studs, they start moving again but then when they were flushed with the hub I had to change plans again, i try again the air-hammer with no luck. So on the end of the day, I pick 2 carriage bolts, (didn't have normal bolts) 2 respective nuts and 2 washers and made it happen putting the carriage bolts through the holes for the bolts that attach to the rotor (see the pictures ). All this work to put a new stud, that now needs to be 4. If I knew that would give all this work, I would had spent $110 and bought the slide hammer puller set. So my question now is: do I have to put new bearings after open the hub? I'm wondering if the bearings is "uncased" because I can see the balls exposed I would buy the seals for sure if they sell it separate. Other question: How do I put all this together again, do I need a press During this process I checked the caliper for failure and for my unhappiness i notice that it was taking a lot of effort to mad it move just a bit, so I dismantle the caliper and there it was a ring of rust in the cylinder and 2 holes on the rubber seal So now I have to rebuild or buy a caliper. Almost $100 to buy 2 rubber seals seems a bit to much.
You got it, there's no problem. Give yourself a pat on the back, and have a beer. Since you took the center nut off, you separated the hub. Then you found more...see above quote. Go back to the thread for the hubs, do that step by step. You could just slap it back together, sure you could. I wouldn't, but you do whatever you want and I'll help you out with that too, not a problem. PS, slide hammer does the same thing you just did, I used a big ass hammer and a punch. Same difference, bearing is fubared, no way around that to take the hub apart. Like I said, it's a good time to do the full job. I did both sides at the same time, including calipers and rotor resurface. Your pics show that you are doing just fine.op:
Very good!! I like that you thought of using the carriage bolts to separate. I agree with spaner though. I would do the bearings and all while you have it apart if you can as well as remove the CV from front diff. Then clean and repack with marine bearing grease. Automotive grease is water saluable or however ya spell that......just means you can mix water in it. Marine grease you can't. I use amsoil synthetic. About 7 dollars a tube. Good luck man
Da're you go, see, I didn't know that. I'm familiar with automotive and aeronautical applications. Marine, geez, of course...:frustration:
Hi, I couldn't order the parts Friday so I will call and place the order Monday, but I will try to use the same bearing, the more affordable online store that I found is http://www.rockymountainimports.net/ even looks like they sell the wheel seal separate. I'll call them Monday. My only concern is how I will slide back the hub into the knuckle. well I'll find a way for sure. Probably I'll give more news in one week. Thanks a lot for your help
By the way I found that at Partsource they "rent" for free a sliding hammer puller here in Calgary, you just have to leave deposit of $119 and when you return the puller they return the money.
It's not a problem, Place the hub assembly into a freezer overnight, Get yourself a length of 3/4" threaded rod (12"+), a bunch of thick washers or plate steel with a cut 3/4" hole. Press it together... Hmm, you should check the available diameter of the hub; I may have used 5/8" TR
So, are you suggesting to put this new type of grease on the hub bearing as well or just for the CV? I guess if it works on the CV, it will work on any other bearing.
I use it on everything. If you have any type of automotive grease put a dab on your hand about the size if a dime. Then take a couple drops of water and add to it. Then start mixing. You'll be surprised how fast it actually mixes together. They design it to wash out. Their theory aside from costing more in parts is that the dirt and grime wash away with it. I've never found this to be true......so......long and short of it.......I use marine grease on everything. You will notice at about negative 50 that it takes a little bit to loosen up but other than that its great stuff
I've put it on bad wheel bearings and was able to complete 3 or 4 more mud races.......not advisable but got me threw till I got my parts hahaha
Hey guys just some feedback from this "big" task. I already put together the knuckle and the hub twice and it seems it will happen one more time. The first time, after putting together I found out that I missed the dust shied. After including the dust shield in the equation I notice that the shield is loose not attached to nothing, I don't remember any kind of fastener to hold the shield in place, i think it was just under pressure on the knuckle or hub, now I will separate them again and I'm hopping to find how to hold it in place. If any of you had this issue before, let me know how you did it, before i take apart again
Yes that's what I think, but I can't make work by right now, I wonder if separate the parts again I'll be able to make it work
By the way, does anyone know the torque for the tie rod cotter pin nut? I have the manual but I can't see, there is some identical parts that say 500-800 kg/cm And about the bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle?
Looked at mine......looks like the bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle are what hold my dust cover
