From a Brand-New-Used 1993 HiJet owner and member of this forum from Southeast Louisiana. Hello Everyone. I've searched hard thru the posts trying to find out if anyone else has the 4 Wheel Drive Actuator Solenoid set similar to the one I have. Everything I've read anywhere only mentions 2 solenoids used to activate the front 4wd Actuator. I have 4 solenoids, and 2 of those 4 are vacuum routed to the rear actuator. I can't get the front actuator to pull in (or out). (Not sure about the rear yet) I am confident it is an electrical issue ahead of the solenoids. My question is, should both the front and rear actuators operate together? That answer would go a long way into helping me troubleshoot the problem. I've replaced all vacuum hoses, verified the actuators do work when vacuum is manually applied to either port, and used 12 volts to confirm the solenoids are actually switching. Also see no voltage getting to the soleoids. I'm getting there, but need help to get over that last hump. Thanks!!! And thanks to everyone who contributes to these discussions
Welcome to the forum sorry I can't help you just hang in there someone with knowledge with reply sooner or later.
Thanks. Can't tell you how much this thing has helped me. Hopefully I can return the favor in some way one day. Pleasure to be a part of it.
Did you see the manual referred to in the reference section? it's a pretty good manual for these trucks but sometimes you have to spend some time looking,for instance I was trying to find initial carb setting and it's not in the carb section but there's an incidental mention in the tune up section.Good luck I'm sure it's something simple and you will find it.
I still haven't had a chance to measure the voltages at the solenoids for you..just have been so busy...I did get the pdfs you sent me..the email is working now whatever the prob was it seems to be cool now..hopefully I'll get those multimeter reading for you in the next day or so. if someone has a vacuum or electrical diagram for the 4 solenoid system it would be a great help
Thanks Fupa, Had a lot of help from Kevin getting my account to work. He needed to authorize me. I know you are busy but never had a doubt you would get back eventually. Jim, thanks also for the reply. And you are right. While looking through the manual I have, I came across things that had me wondering why they would be in that section. I always bookmark them just in case. But honestly, I didn't see the manual you mentioned. First thing in the morning I will check it out. I haven't been able to open attachments nor post until today. That's fixed now so it opens up a whole new world of reference. It willl be solved and then I can maybe help the next person with that problem.
In the manual provided by Mini Truck Supply in the" reference "section of the of the Daihatsu forum under the" transfer & sub transmission" section pages TR 42,43,&45 there are diagrams showing this system but it doesn't look like there are solenoids at the rear. It is a pretty good looking display if it is the same as your truck,which I think it should be. Hope this helps.
Hey Jim, That is actually the same diagram I am using and is where I'm picking up the reference to VSV2 and VSV3. I am trying to avoid writing a book here because I can get carried away explaining things, but lets just say that is the best diagram i have come across yet. The manual I bought is evidently the same manual you are referring to. Most things about it seem applicable to my truck, but the one nagging thing I can't get around is that the whole section on the engine is referring to the S81 (EB-90???) 547 CC. Mine is an S83 660CC. Maybe that is irrelevant to my problem tho. After you brought up those pages, I went back and skimmed over them. Now I'm thinking I need to critique it a little harder. Saw things there that might help.
I talked to Leon at Daihatsu Help once about a carb issue and he said the S80,81,&83 were all the same vintage and pretty much the same truck but the 80 & 81 were down graded power wise to satisfy the govt.for import purposes.He is only there Tues. & Wed. but a real nice guy and pretty sharp about these trucks.His email is leon@daihatsu-help.com
Ok. Hoping I have a little more time this weekend to put into it. Also gives me more faith in the book, thanks for that info. If it is not resolved by Wednesday, I will probably send him an e-mail. Don't want to give up just yet. Learning a lot about this truck that I never expected to have to. Great project tho.
I just ran across a great post from a fellow, user-name Inane2, on a mod he did on an S210P back in Jan 2011. Even tho I have a completely different truck, it really brought to focus what was probably common knowledge to most people except me. That rear actuator (Mounted on the rear transfer case or transmission maybe, going from memory) i now believe to be the differential lock. So, based on that assumption, the front and rear actuator will operate independently. So I can't expect all 4 solenoids to engage simultaneously. Does that make sense to anyone, or am I barking up the wrong tree? I also read another post somewhere but can't seem to locate where the guy said he found a problem with broken wires on a sensor or switch located in the general area of the starter and transmission. Complete with pictures. My wires look fine, but planted the seed that I might have issues with it anyway.
I'm sure you are right.On my Scrum and I think the Hijet too the solenoid and vacuum in the front locks the front end the same as the old locking hubs did on the older 4x4s where you had to get out and turn the hubs in.If so this means you have the dif lock in the rear which is a real good deal and not a lot of these trucks have it.
Finally, good news. Still have to figure why the electrons are stopping short of the solenoid connector. But when there is progress there is hope right? And by the way, excuse my ignorance, but what's a Scrum? I read one of your postings earlier about when you first bought your truck. Think it was you with the ordeal about the smog issue and getting it licensed? That finally made it through I'm guessing?
A Scrum is actually a Suzuki Carry but marketed by Mazda as an Autozam Scrum just different badges and markings.I also have a S80 lp Hijet that I bought because it was street legal and I really wish it was 4x4.
Don't know much about any others except this HiJet. And like I said, I'm learning alot more than I expected to. But really a kick in the a$$. These things are so much better than what I was looking for when I came across the Minitruck world. Yall know them, the big heavy hunting type golf carts and gas powered ones. Gonna be nice come winter time. Heat, out of the rain, stereo. The perfect hunting vehicle. One day I will get around to putting pics out too. Gonna check your truck out jonny. At work now and things are heating up some. Maybe tomorrow.
I have a daihatsu hijet with the rear diff lock. It has very similar actuators on the front axle housing and on the rear axle housing but they serve different purposes, the actuator on the front axle housing ( Referred to as an axle lock or an axle disconnect) engages/disengages the axles via a fork connected to a sliding collar which disconnects/connects one of the axles from the differential. This collar slides on the axle splines at a separated point of the axle and when separated allows the axle to spin freely from the diff and opposite axle. This allows the front axles to turn independantly from each other when unlocked and engages the diff when locked (does the same as manual locking hubs only with more moving parts). This system works similar to these diagrams. The actuator on the rear axle housing engages/disengages the differential lock. The actuator engages a fork attached to a collar with a jaw clutch. The jaw clutch slides on the axle splines and locks to the ring gear thus locking the axles to the differential, similar to how it is shown in this diagram. I was looking for solutions to replace the push button engagement and air vac actuators on my diff lock & axle disconnect (axle lock) so that I could use 4-lo in 2-wheel drive, use the rear locker in more than 1st gear by making it into a manual engagement set up and be able to do away with the stock actuators should they fail. I came across this link http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/home-made-posi-lock-write-up-595515/ in another forum with a way to convert to a manual engagement of the collar fork using a lock cable. The long and short of it is, you can do away with the stock actuator and go the route that this fellow did with his jeep 4x4 axle disconnect. This link has some good photos of the front axle disconnect actuator http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?1682-Diff-locker-or-4wd-actuator-(pics)&highlight=locker and this link http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?2073-My-new-Climber&highlight=hijet+locker has some good photos of the rear axle diff lock actuator.
View attachment Rear_End.pdf View attachment RearActuator3.pdf Kjohn, First, gotta thank you not only for the excellent write up. but just as much for taking the time to do it. I appreciate it, and I am sure there will be others doen the road who reference this post and learn from it like I did. I've attached pics of the rear actuator on my truck. Doesn't seem to be the same set-up as the one in the link you sent, (wish it was). I'm certainly not a mechanic, but I just don't see how mine can lock the differential the way it is built. It's not on the axle (guessing it is the rear transfer case??) and so it can't change anything on the rear end right? If I am right, what is it's purpose? One of the pdf's has a circle around a switch that another poster EST277 had issues with. My wires appear ok, but I really have to follow them back to be sure. When I took that picture, I noticed that open ended electrical connector. At first glance I don't see it's mate. I know it could have been run and not used so for the time being I'm ignoring it.
Ok. The best drawing I have seen yet. That should be in the book for sure. Looking it over, and compared to mine, I don't think I have the axle mounted rear differential lock actuator. I would have to verify that but I don't think I have anything mounted on the rear axle. Everything else however looks consistent with what I have.
Thought some of you might be interested in hearing what I found this weekend. (By accident) The electrical diagram I have shows a switch that is actuated internally when put in 4WD. (PS2 if you have it) According to that drawing all that switch does is complete the circuit to turn on the 4WD indicator on the dash. Well like the saying goes I couldn't see the forest for the trees, and should have followed up closer when the indicator never would come on. Well that switch is bad, and since it is also the switch that powers up the front SOV's (Not shown in my book), it couldn't do either. (It's broken in the open state). I jumped the contact and like magic everything started working. Now I need to find a replacement switch. I learned a lot doing this and need to make a lot of pencil-in-notes in my manual. Also have a lot of really clean connectors. Lol. Now I am off to my next problem which is that it dies after running several minutes and more often once it warms up. I think it is a fuel issue since my timing light shows sparks all the way to the point the engine quits turning. I think this will be an easier fix than the 4WD issue, but since I am not as mechanical savvy as I am electrical it will present different problems. Looking forward to it tho. So thanks to everyone for the help, I appreciate it. Some went out of there way to help me with this. But it is refreshing to see that is pretty common on this forum. Steve
So I have a couple questions on my Hijet s83p! I’m new to Hijet game but it’s a kick in the A$$ to work on and play in! The other day I was climbing a hill and before putting it in 4wd, it climbed up the hill with no problem but I noticed both rear tires were digging in! Just like a posi but I have no locker switch, so can one tell me if this is a posi rear end or has some one gone in and welded the gears to make a posi. I’m running 25x8x12 dot 10 ply tires and a heavy duty 2 1/2 inch lift from Harley Rose.
Looks like the OP is not here anymore. Anyone knows what is the internal switch he is talked about ? I think have a similar issue
Judging by the description above it would be a switch on the transfer case itself (located just behind the transmission).
I think you are correct. I used the Japanese manual , and was able to google translate part of it related to the topic. there is a position switch switch that looks like is responsible for it. Here is the 4wd wiring diagram i made from the manual . (Hijet S110P manual with Hi/Lo)
