i'm in the process of designing a snorkel for my truck, it will be on the driver's side to add symetry to the stack on the left side, and to keep me from gulping water when i'm out playing. i have noticed under my truck that the air intake has little "air pockets" (they look like tumors ) all over it. they are all different shapes and sizes. i know this to be common for diahatsu in my year group. i've been trying to decide what they were for. maybe to change the drag of the air coming through the tube? to make more air available closer to the engine. when i was building limited class off road cars like baja 5/1600 we ran a vacuum canister on the manifold because the cams were too big for the carb at low rpm, i'm wondering if this is the same thing? i seem to recall someone having problems with a snorkel they built. the truck would run with it off but not with it on. i just noticed on a late model isuzu NPR we have here at the shop there is a big "air pocket" right next to the air filter at the bottom of the snorkel. anyone have some input on this? some real experience?
I build one for my Carry (carberated) with no problems. I didn't notice any tumors and haven't noticed any ill affects from it and have been running it for a couple months. On my Carry, the intake was hooked up to a hole roughly 1 1/2" in diameter on the bottom of the bed apparently to keep up high and dry. I took that off and hooked up to the intake using a couple of irrigation elbows and some 1 1/2" irrigation pipe. I purchased a Safari Snorkel and used Shop-vac tube to extend it above the cab, it looks almost stock. I'll get some pics tomorrow and post them...
Milt, I'd seriously consider using the "dummy" stack as an intake. It's plenty high enough, adds symetry and a large cold air intake. Not sure what kind of drag the muffler would create, but you could always punch it out or use a straight pipe. If you're worried about rain, put a weep hole in at the low point. It could also be a great trick to play on people, leaning against the cold intake and them psyching them into leaning against the hot exhaust.
I USED A SIMPLE METHOD OF 2" PVC PIPE,GLUE AND PAINT!! INEXPENSIVE AS WELL. I'LL GET PICTURES IN MY ALBUM SOON!!!!!!!!!
I think the empty boxes are called resonator boxes, and they change the air currents going to the motor. That's about the last of my knowledge. I know some vehicles are more picky than others when they are removed...some don't notice, other will not run correctly. I'm not sure if just adding a snorkel in addition to the stock plumbing would hurt anything or not. I love to add a snorkel to my fuel injected Mitsu to keep it from collecting so much dust, but haven't had the courage to try anything yet. -Andy
the current intake runs from inside the frame rail into the tumored tubing to the air filter box. i want to remove the stock system and do the snorkel straight from the box. thanx for the info andy.
Most of the time, "mystery chambers" and pipes with blind ends and the like in an intake system, are for noise reduction, to cancel out specific frequencies. If you do your own intake system, it'll sound different, that's all. There is certainly an outside chance that the frequency one of those chambers is cancelling out, will turn out to be really annoying ... but there's no way to predict that without trying it.
good info, thanx a lot. i know from past experience putting a cold air intake on my cars has changed the sound since it exposed the element and removed the sound deadening air box. and i really don't think anything will be more annoying than a 3" stack at freeway speeds, maybe the drones will cancel each other out
Here are some pics: Here's the side view. Just some Shop-Vac tubing that's the same material as the snorkel hood. This is how it goes through the bed. It's another Shop-Vac part that's used to neck down to different sizes of hose. This is the bottom side of the bed and how the irrigation tubing is run to the intake. There's no need for clamps on the tubing and elbows since the tubing is heated up and the elbows are pressed into it. Plus, I should get some shorter bolts, that's all I had laying around when I did this. The whole vehicle. I haven't had any ill effects from it and it looks pretty cool...
Snorkel Photos If you will go to my Profile and look in my photo album, I have just recently added photos of my inexpensive snorkel.
chad, looks cool, i was thinking about going by the bone yard to see what i could find for a snorkel, but if i strike out there, where did you get yours?
that truck looks cool! that is what i would do if i was to do that. if a truck dies from a snorkle maybe the tube used was too small?
Hey danish, That worked out well for you. I'd also like to know where you got the top piece for your snorkel. gbrad
I got it from 4x4connection.com. They got snorkel kits for most vehicles and they sell the snorkel hoods separate as well. I was worried about hitting branches with it but it has taken the abuse of the trails on the family property.
I Bought everything you see at Lowes!!! 2" pvc pipe (4' section) and the appropriate fittings. two rubber boots which i also purchased in the plumbing dept. And a can of vinyl spray paint. When it gets a scratch a lil dab of paint makes it new all over again!!! We have a BIG ride this weekend and i have a co-worker who just bought himself a mini!!!! Lots of FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!
The snorkel top is available from anyone who sells ARB/ Safari products . I have a safari snorkel on my Toyota Landcruiser from 4x4 Connection over 10 years ago and its still hasnt been ripped off yet
i took the plunge yesterday (had a wild hair to make a snorkel). My main interest in this project was dust related more than anything. I have the 93 Carry and it has the "long" air filter. The aftermarket (FRAM) i have doesn't fit well. I have some gaskets inside it to make it fit better but i was concerned about the "dirty" air that is under the truck (i drive lots and lots off road in AZ here were it is quite dirty and dusty). So... Here goes. First pic you notice i removed the "doo-hicky" that tries to pull warm air off the exhaust manifold for very cold starts. IMHO this design feature doesnt work. the heat exchanger is lame. On my truck it was all full of holes and rusted out so i removed it. you can see it sitting in the truck bed for reference.... Next you can see i used what was left of this system to route through the bed. I also sealed it up and made it air tight with some RTV i had laying round the shop Last but not least, i had to plug the vacuum line that operated a valve in the said "doo-hicky" mentioned above. I still need a decent "top" for this snorkel as of yet its a vertical rain funnel... UPDATE: i happened to open a can of pineapple last night and the can was about 3" in diameter. Eureka! I cried... It was stripped of its pineapple label, spray painted black, and fastened to the top of my snorkel. Ok im calling this project done. Ill post a pic when i get a chance... Total Cost of Mod ZERO dollars... but if i happened to not like pineapple and a few other if's... 1$ for the pineapple can, about 0.20$/foot for PVC @ 2.5' is 45cents, and about an 8 dollar tube of high temp RTV. You can prolly use some black RTV and make it much cheaper, but i had what i had open already so im calling this project done for zero. enjoy....
Looking good guys. I'll be looking in to doing this when I get mine... although I'd worry a bit about breaking it throwing stuff in the back if it was PVC. I like the dust/water protection though.
One thing I was wondering about too is do you guys still have a filter on there? I mean I'd imagine you would want one just to keep out dust and whatnot...
Not that i could tell. Seemed a little zippy'er but could have been that i cleaned out the air filter when i did that. Here is the top of it...
Yes still have the filter. I have an aftermarket FRAM that doesnt fit well in the box (kinda short) so its got a sponge wedged in the air box to make it seal. I also put a rubber gasket on the round air box, mine didnt have one and it looked like it was not air tight at all. it is more air tight now with the gasket i have no there now.
My only problem is my 93 is a dump bed, Have to figure out how to route the piping. Definately going to do it to get the intake out of the dust. Glad you didn't lose any performance. That was my only concern. Thanks, Terry
You bring up a good point though. Here is my two cents on that thought. Performance change as a function of air intake design from a snorkel. Two major things that can happen to change performance in this situation (that i can think of). One (1), Diameter of pipe feeding Air box. This changes resistance to flow and can thus increase or decrease performance. Two (2), Volume of air within the pipe feeding air box can create a "turbo Lag" type effect but in this case from a drop in air pressure vs an increase in air pressure. Case One (1) being the most influencing (IMHO)... The Fix... Ensure large diameter pipe is used to aviod this problem. If you put a garden hose or straw on the intake, you get problems. Case Two (2) Avoid Long sections of pipe that could create lots of air volume within the tube itself. This prevents power lag (think of the "tube" as a rubberband but with air pressure). If you Yank on a rubber band with the intent of dragging somthing along thats on the other end, it wont follow you right off thus, power lag. Shorter the rubber band, the less the lagg (turbo intercoolers work the same way). op:
I just snorkeled my '92 Carry, although I don't have the stack going over the cab with a ram intake like Danish has. My stock intake had a flex hose from the flange to the frame intake tube so I only needed one elbow under the deck but otherwise the fitting thru the deck, and the PVC tubing are all pretty similar. I use my Carry as my daily driver and I drive gravel roads every day so I think it's getting better air now. I've also gotten water into the intake when off-roading so I think the snorkel is a necessary improvement.
pics of my new snorkel #1: what the world can see at a glance #2: the flexible double-ended rubber coupler that the 1 1/2" PVC fits into. The coupler is what goes through the floor of the box. A large rubber washer is between the coupler and the box floor. #3: a PVC elbow connects the original intake flange to the stock flex hose #4: the whole deal under the box #5: the original elbow now connected to the rubber coupler that goes through the floor. I stripped an old rubber extension cord of it's sheathing to protect the coupler from the metal edge. I fastened the pipe to the headache rack with a "U" clamp. That's all there is to it. My Carry is breathing easy now.
Be aware, that warm air bypass will still suck in dirty air until the truck warms up if u don't do somthing about it. You may have I just can't tell from the pictures.
good work! I like the extra effort you put into where it goes through the bed. The bend at the top looks nice and simple. =)