When I've taken mine in the guy here cleans them up really good and does his best to get all the little passages cleaned up.While you have it out tap the freeze plugs and make sure they are still solid.I had one rust through and really make a mess.
I surely will. I have a question for you guys. I was told by the shop that you cannot magna flux an aluminum head and they pressure check them and also check to see if its warped. Reason I ask, today a guy from GR told me that their local shop magna fluxes thier heads. GR also told me that if I put the new valve seals that I would need to re adjust the valves after I torq the head down. My dad on the other hand called it bs because they don't have pushrods and that the rocker arms would change just ticked back to put springs and keepers back on. What's y'all's take on all this? PS I tend to lean with my ole man as he has been around the block and back and knows his stuff. I've gone against his word and its cost me. He is however getting older and slipping but still pretty darn sharp.
Definitely put the valve seals on and you should always check and adjust the valves while you're in there just makes sense. Old farts rule!
Well here is the latest, I got my head back today and they said it was fine. The guy told me that they pressure check them for cracks and that mine Wasnt cracked. They resurfaced it and its ready to go for a whopping $75. So glad. Now I plan to get the gasket set and put it back together. I plan to buy new water pump, timing belt and tensioned as I put it all back together. Question I now have is GR has a core fee on water pump which leads me to believe they can be rebuilt. Anyone ever rebuilt one? I'm thinking I'm gonna take a look and see what's involved.
Better off letting them rebuild em even IF you can find the parts. Pretty easy if ya have a welder and a press I guess......I can't even find the parts to rebuild my own starter. I'm not giving up yet though Hahaha. Glad you got your head back and all is good.
MM, what do you need to fix your starter? My dad has a friend that rebuilds this sort of thing and I can see if he has it or can get it. On the water pump, Im assuming the press would be to press out a bearing but what would the welder be for? I do have a friend with a mig welder. Ready to get this puppy back on the road.
Does the shaft rattle, 99% chance that the gasket rotted off and the bolts were loose. Mine would have been fine with the above, but I had alread ordered the part before taking things apart. Faster=more money Slower=less money Pull it apart and see what you actually need, But first, grab the water pump gear and give it a shake, then the body plate of the pump and shake that, like really hard with two hands. That will give you a yes for sure, or just a maybe. Check the gasket really well, just paper, check the mounting for corrosion. The vendors have made a ton of money of these pumps and most of them were not needed, say 50/50. Longterm reliability though, probly...
Hatch......I need the brushes and silinoid. I've already gone to our local starter gooroo. No luck. I think that a vw starter uses the same parts. I'll be finding out in a day or so. Thanx. I did find a used one but the guy that has it has been too busy to send it.........for the last 2 weeks.......for the price I guess I'll just have to wait Hahaha
Hey spanner, I took pump off and no slack whatsoever. Where can I find a cheap belt and tensioner. I think my pump is fine just needing a new gasket. That said I did go ahead and order a new pump, belt, & tensioner for $175 and free shipping. I found belt and tensioner for $130 so figured it was worth it for pump. The only thing about this one is it seems a little stiff to turn. Are they all that way?
Yea, tight is OK. A hand spin should give you 2 to 3 rotations, that's fine. Belt, 60ish Tensioner, 60ish Gasket, 10ish You got everything for a pretty good price. Should last the rest of the lifetime for the truck. What I was getting at, was the facts as presented, for the problem described, you probly would have been OK with 10 bucks, and last you the next 2 years. Now you're good for 10. Either or, you're on the right track...
Well after removing belt it's probably ok but it had a whole in it, from what I can't say. It seemed to be in good shape outside of that though, however the tensioner isn't something i trust because I feel the bearing is going out. It's rough and noisy. Pump is really stiff and I'm not actually sure I can get three rotations out of it after spinning.
Well just an update. Ordered a new timing belt kit which included the belt, tensioner, water pump, and gaskets from eBay in order to save a few. It came from a seller (who's name I won't mention) who offered it all a bit cheaper than anywhere else. Well parts came and package was missing a few items, like tensioner and seals and the water pump gasket was torn. It took close to 2.5 weeks to get it here and now it looks like I'm gonna have to wait again because seller has been extremely hard to deal with IMO. My gut told me not to do it but of course I was trying to save money. So I guess I will continue to play the waiting game and it's tuff because I'm so ready to put her back together.
Man......so frustrating. Its hard to find dependable people any more. Makes ya want to fly to wherever they are and make em eat whatever it is they sent ya!! I feel your pain man. Living in Alaska as I have since I was a kid we have had to order many things. Hopefully eBay will back you up when you report them. Good luck
Well here is an update, my dad and I pulled the valve seals to replace when he noticed that the top of the intake valves (where the keepers are) were blue. He got real worried about this and said that engine must have gotten real hot for the tops of the valves to turn blue. he said that the blue was from heat. So now he is wanting me to pull the oil pan to check one piston to see if the oil rings have collapsed. He said if they get extremely hot they will collapse and it was best while I had it all apart to check them rather than to put it back together to find it smoking and have to go back together. I said it had great compression to which his reply was they can have good compression by the compression rings but the oil rings can still be collapsed.. So here we go.. I surely hope this thing runs good when I get her put back together ha. Whats yalls thoughts?
Sounds like you have an awesome helper!!! I've encountered mechanics working in shops that have argued that very point with me. Guys I worked with. Maybe they just didn't want to do the work, I don't know. What I do know is when I got my mini-mog she had been overheated to the point that the plastic "T" in the coolant line going to the carb had literally melted. As well as the electric fan and the hose that hooks to the thermostat. Amazingly the engine runs great and my valves look good. I'd go ahead and drop Th pan and check it out
100% good advice but not enough for a good roasting. You've probly just found the main problem with the engine. Order a full set of rings. You're going to pull one to inspect it. Half an hours' work more to pull all three. Now you can inspect the bearings at the same time. Now she's apart, might just as well hone her out and put a new set of rings in her, the one's you already ordered. Good advice, but for an extra hour of work, you get a much better end result.
so can I drop the oil pan with the engine still in the truck? I glanced under it this morning for just a sec to see that it looks like the cross member goes right under the very back portion of the pan. Let me know your thoughts.
As an update, I got under the machine to see if I could drop the pan to check the inserts, mains, and rings to which I found it nearly impossible. I have decided to load it up tomorrow and take it to my dads and just pull the engine completely so that I can give it a good going over. I feel I can disconnect all the necessary lines and undo the 8 support bolts and just ease it to the ground. I am still waiting on just a few parts and thinking I may be purchasing new rings and such. Im really ready to get this puppy on the move. A couple of questions, can anyone tell me where you got the three thick orings that are in the valve cover? Also I need the 4x4 shift handle for a 93 model and the clips that hold the front cover one, please let me know where I can find these things. Thanks in advance
I have the end clips and knobs but not the center clips,some of the vendors have them but want a fortune for them.If you need the end clips and knobs pm me with an address and I'll send them to you.
That's way cool of ya Jim!! Hatch If your going to pull the engine.........wouldn't it be easier to drop the engine and tranny while they are bolted together? Then ya just unhook the drive lines, shift linkage, clutch cable, wire harness on engine and tranny like your going to any way, then drop both cross members. Should come out faster than trying to unbolt the engine and take it out by itself. I've been known to use two floor jacks.......one under each x member and a ratchet strap to keep the jack firmly attached to the x member so you can just grab the handle of each jack and drag everything out. Once out everything is easy to get too. Then you can clean the tranny up and lube all those hard to get too spots
Moose is right about pulling both with cross members attached.I used an engine hoist/cherry picker through the left door,it's easier if you remove the door, then floor jacks to lower the rear.I dropped mine onto a furniture moving dolly from Harbor Freight, then just jack the truck up and roll it out.It's much better balanced and the cross members help you handle it.It's a lot easier going back together to just have the 4 bolts to line up.I've done it both ways and this was a lot easier for me.You either have to drain the tranny or tie the drive shaft in place or you'll lose all the gear oil and make a mess and that stuff is a PIA to clean up. Good luck you'll be glad you pulled it in the end.
Yeah I had planned to keep them together, I could understand where you would think I mean the engine by itself. Mr. Jim I do plan to use a cherry picker and go through the door to and hook it up and use it to lower it to the ground.. Once on the ground I plan to pick the truck up over it and I have to agree with you and muddy that its going to be much easier to deal with and while I have it out I may as well just go ahead and give it a good going over. Then it will be ready to ride for as long as I will want to run it... Watched several youtube videos last night and man Im ready to get this thing going.. I used my old one to remove a tree from a guys back yard and it was so handy. My trucks aren't in the best of condition so im trying to fix little things here and there as I go but in the end I think its going to be just fine for what it will be used for. I appreciate all you guys and the knowledge you bring to the table. This site is a great source of info (and opinion ha). let me stop by asking this question, ive been told they are very front heavy and do not do well on steep terrain so I have been thinking of adding a pretty substantial rear bumper to help put some weight on the back of the truck.. Is this needed? Thanks again
I have 7 herniated disks in my neck and back. Lots of nerve damage.......that said, I can pick the rear wheels off the ground and walk around with them off the ground. Dont like too, but can. On the other hand..... I can't even stretch the suspension on the front Hahaha. Instead if adding weight to the rear via bumper or steel plate, I chose to lift the rear 4 inches and the front 7. That transfers a lot of the weight already there to the rear wheels. I no longer have 4th gear wheel spin on dirt roads. A couple times got real interesting!!! Also.........I can't pick Tue rear wheels off the ground at all now. Hope that helps........I'm not a big fan of adding weight for any reason and I don't mind that the rear of my rig sits a bit lower than the front, especially since it made such a drastic improvement. I have thought about shimming the bed just so it looks level but have no actual plans of doing it hahaha
Here is the latest. I pulled the engine out of the truck which took about 1.5 hours. I have now pulled the pan and checked a piston to see whether or not the oil rings had collapsed, i wasn't sure so decided to just go ahead and buy a new set (which should be here Friday) and also i have had 3 different mechanics (one being my dad) look at the rod bearings and they all said they looked really good. While the engine was out i did go ahead and steam clean the block and get it ready to paint. I guess Im redneck but I plan to paint it caterpillar yellow and hope it turns out as good as i want it to. Anyways once i get the new rings I plan to reassemble it. Im starting to get excited about it because i feel that the ball is now rolling again and i cant wait to get this puppy back on the road. My next issue will be the tranny. Reverse is torn out of it and I think it may only be a shifting fork and so i hope i can pull it apart to see. If metal i may try and have it welded back together and fix anything else in the tranny. I just dont want to touch the other truck i have as it runs and drives. I would like to keep it as intact as i can for now. Do any of you have any ideas where I may could buy internal parts? It may be a lost cause but I figure I would try it. As always I cant stop without asking a couple more questions. What should the rod bolts be torqued to? Also I was told the head bolts needed to be torqued to 45lbs. Is that correct? Thanks in advace I also want to send a special thanks to Jim Nelson for mailing me those parts. This site is great and a great source of info
The spec for the head bolts is 43-47 so 45 is fine,on the rod bearings the manual says 22.4 - 25.3. The cam shaft caps are either 6.5 or 7.25 on one page and 6.5 - 8.6 on another so 7 would probably work.
Well here is the latest, I've rebuilt the engine for the most part and going back together with it. Had a real issue with parts and that took almost 2 months and so it has been somewhat of a challenge, especially when given my crazy schedule. That said, I've pretty much got everything now to put it back together except for the little spring that puts tension on the timing belt tension-er. Is this something i can pick up locally or should i special order it? I've also been thinking about putting a set of gauges in it to monitor the temp, oil pressure and voltage. has anyone every done this? Thanks in advance.
Nope, you don't need a spring, or, you could use any spring. Just remember that there is no spring there, and when you go to take the slack out (500 miles, 3000 miles, 30000 miles) you are going to take the slack out with the covers off; remove pulley, remove covers, use a pry bar.
So Spaner, are you telling me that the spring doesn't actually play a role in the tension of the belt? I thought that the spring kept tension on the pulley and that is what kept the belt tight. interesting.
Negative, This is what "the spring" does, Suggested factory tensioning adjustment. Remove tensioning system cover. (A little round plug of vinyl, just above the crank pulley, in the main timing belt cover) Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt one-full rotation. Rotate the cam (by means of the cam pulley retaining bolt) one quarter turn anti-clockwise. Tighten the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt to factory torque specs. Replace tensioning system cover. With the retaining bolt loosened, the "spring" has a function. With the retaining (single mounting bolt) bolt tightened, the "spring" has no real function. Clear as mud?
so if im understanding your post correctly, the springs function pulls the slack out of the belt once the bolt is loosened and then you just re-tighten the bolt. At least that in my mind is what it does because i think it would be hard to get a pry bar in to take the slack out and re-tighten. Correct me if I'm wrong. And thanks Spaner for the info
