Guys im seeking some advice here. I have recently acquired 2 suzuki mini trucks. One is a 1991 4X4 carry that runs (somewhat) but has been rolled over and isn't in just the best of shape but I only paid $400 for it. I will get to the engine issue shortly. the second carry i picked up is I think a 1993 4X4 that doesn't run. I picked it up for $200 because my mind set was to put the engine out of the 91 into the 93 since the later model was in better condition. Now let me explain the situation and hopefully paint a picture for you all. The 91 will crank and run but it runs for about 10 seconds and dies as if it is smothering. I opened the air cleaner thinking it may be air and nope thats not the problem. I put a new fuel filter on it and have found it actually has two filters and i plan to replace the other one today. I did as i read in a previous thread where i have sucked sea foam in the carb, let it sit for 30 min and did it again. Filter i replaced was between the tank feed and pump and it looks as if there is another filter on the fuel return line right before going back into the tank. When i picked it up it ran enought to get us around the block. Now it will not open up, it will idle up but will not open up as it sounds as if its starving for air (maybe the way i have it now its fuel). Other than that the front end needs alot of work. Planning to go buy 7' of vacuum line today and replace all lines. I wont bore you anymore with this one. Now to the 93, I picked it up because of the condition of the body. The story that was given to me was that it had been stolen and recovered but I live in the MS Delta and they stole it and were joy riding knocking down corn and they ran it into a creek. I was told that they drained the oil because they filled the engine up with water. Guy told me they cracked a head or blew a head gasket. Well i picked it up two days ago and got it home and alot of their story just isn't adding up and here is why. The engine oil is jet black and the starter was taken off and in a million pieces so i didn't get it. I got to thinking that if they drained the oil as they said they did and that the head was cracked, why would the oil be black? That's my first question and secondly i cracked the oil drain plug thinking that after 2 years of sitting that if there were water in the oil then it would have separated and the water would have settled to the bottom and would have run out when i cracked the drain plug, well it was jet black oil, Huh? Lastly why did they pull the starter if the engine was bad? I say all that to say im not sure the engine is bad, im beginning to think the water may have shorted something out and they couldn't get it to start so they pulled the starter thinking that was the problem. I was also told they ripped reverse out trying to back it out of the creek. My dad (who is a mechanic) also told me to check the plugs and if there is a cracked head or gasket there is a chance that one or more of the plugs could possibly be rusted and it would tell me what cylinder the water was getting into. My dilemma is that im not sure what to do now. One reason is because the newer one is an air conditioned unit and it also has a totally different vacuum system than the older one. As I have read the "desperately need tuning help' these things can have alot of different vacuum systems. If you were in my situation what would you do? How do you post pics as i would like to post pics of it all for you to see. Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post. once again I really appreciate those who contribute because its a joy to sit down and read at night, gives me alot of great insight.
I'd try to get the 93 running. Bump start it or swap the starter temporarily and see if it cranks. If the head is cracked/leaking it will show on the plugs as your dad says. If the engine is scrap, swap the engine. The blocks should interchange easily, just keep all the "plumbing etc" off the 93. Good luck, they are fun trucks
Thanks packrat, do you own a 93? If so would you mind taking a picture of the fuse box for me? I got to noticing that there isn't a single fuse in the truck and im sure its because they stole them so i dont' have a clue as to what amps or even where they should go back.
I have a 1990, but hopefully they are similar. The headlight fuses (second pic) are at the top right of the panel. Hope this helps. At least you will know the size needed for the circuits.
Here is a diagram out of the manual. A bit different from packrat's but some are the same. https://picasaweb.google.com/105094281592295990176/20130706?authkey=Gv1sRgCIOdpeTugtTPCw#
thanks guys, rwsem, the photo was small and i wasn't able to blow it up to see the detail. is there a way to post it on here or email it to me. thanks again
thanks spaner, i appreciate you alls patience with us newb's. I have another question though, I wouldn't put all 10 amp fuses in them so do you have any recommendations for what amp fuse should go where. I will take a stab right off the bat and you correct as you see fit. 1 - 4 -- 10amp 5 -- 15-30amp 6 -- 15amp 7 -- 10-15amp 8 -- 15-30amp 9 -- 15-30amp 10 -- 10-15amp ? any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is what I got accomplished over the weekend. I took starter out of my 91 and replaced the fuses in the 93 truck and turned key on and fuel pump went to ticking. The 93 is the one with the cracked head or gasket or so i was told when i picked it up. Ok so I purchased 3 new plugs to put in it and started spinning it over. I did however put some fresh fuel in the tank. I took the fuel line off and turned key on several times in hopes of pushing old fuel out of the lines. I did this several times till the fuel smelled fresh. The intake hose has a crack in it so I took fuel line and dumped it in the crack and pumped fuel in the intake tube and then re attached the line. Well low and behold she fired off but would die as soon as that gas was gone. I did this several times Saturday. Well today it seemed to work even better and would continue to try and run as long as I kept pumping the throttle but eventually would smother out. Well I got a can of sea foam and took the line off tank and dropped into the can of sea foam and ran it until it smoked white. Left truck for several hours and fired up again and white smoke everywhere. Got regular fuel back in lines and carb. It will open up but smothers out. Any suggestions, I'm thinking now maybe a clogged fuel filter. Also water spewed back out of the radiator. Any ideas there? Cracked head? I've read where it could possibly need to be bled off. Last question I have is this, would y'all pull head while in the truck to see if its bad? Or would y'all try something different? I really enjoy piddling with these things. Thanks in advance
I'd try the fuel filter first. Look in the reference section for the PN. If you have a cracked head, you would either see coolant on the ground or in the crankcase, I would think. Spray the outside of the carb with cleaner, could be you have some gunked up springs and such.
I would do a cold compression check on both engines and see what the numbers say. Use the best engine with the best numbers.
This is a dangerous question to answer because there are different strokes for different folks. A new engine would be in the 200psi range. Knowing that its not new and has some miles on it I would say anything min. 135/145psi and above would fly. With 10% or less difference between cylinders. Someone else may have another number in mind but thats my thoughts. Ideal would be 170 - 180+ -.
Ok so here is whats transpired since the last long post. Well as i stated above the engine would not run on its on without working the throttle so i decided I really didn't have anything to lose by taking the carb off and cleaning it. let me tell you it was filthy, i mean junk all in the bowl and all the small side jets were clogged. Well i cleaned it the best i knew how with carb cleaner and got it in pretty good shape. It really may have needed a new rebuild kit for some of the gaskets but i put it back together just so i could go slap it back on and run the engine. Well it took a little bit to get it back up and running due to no fuel in the carb but after that it did crank up and run on its on without having to work the throttle as i previously had to do. After that i noticed that the engine had a miss to it and smoking like it had a burnt valve or something. Ok well the next day i went out there and fired it right up and same thing and now it seems to continue to run worse than the day before. I also noticed that it seems like its wanting to back fire back through the carb like timing is off or something. I called myself marking all my vacuum lines and putting them back on where they came off. Could this be a vacuum issue? I pulled the plugs (which are brand new) yesterday and they were jet black. It also seems like i can hear fire jumping from one of the spark plug wires. Is this because plugs have fowled and its having to go somewhere? Whats making the plugs black? The original plugs from when i got it were also jet black. I'm just baffled because when dumping fuel in the intake pipe it seemed to run well. Seemed to have smoked at first but once it burned off the old oil it seemed to have quit. Now it seems like its smoking like a mosquito machine. I guess I'm back to where I once was, thinking I would pull my other engine from my 91 and put it in the 93. I surely was hoping that with a little effort i could have had two running. My dang luck Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be most appreciated.
If the plugs are black with carbon its running rich. If they are black with oil, rings most likely. The biggest thing is if these trucks sit for a while the carbs. get gummed up with varnish and if you're lucky the sea foam will clean them up if they havnt sat for to long.. If they are gummed up a lot the only option is to have them taken apart 100% and cleaned in a chemical vat. There are so many small fuel passages in the carb. its hard to clean with a can of carb. cleaner. Most of the carb. kits are a waste of time if you cant get all the passages cleaned out. I recently spent three days tweeking a carb., sea foaming it a couple of times and it ran fairly well but not good enough. On the upper end it just bogged down. I pulled the carb. (3rd. x) again and sent it to Hite Parts. They rebuilt it, I installed it, truck runs like new with 120,000kms on the clock. You are dealing with two trucks that are unknown. Your timing could be off(most likely not), valves wasted. rings wasted, carb. gummed up, bad fuel, dirty air filter, dist. cap cracked/oxidation build up on contacts, plugs wires bad, ect. ect. If you have fire to all three plugs(no short in plug wires), its breathing air and fuel it should run. My guess is you have a fuel delivery problem. and that could be no fuel or bad fuel in tank, filter, fuel pump, """"carb. gummed up"""". My money is carb.
Trax, a few questions here, is hite parts chad hite? If its chad does he chemically clean them? And lastly,if you dont mind me asking, what does something like that cost? Thanks in advance
Google " Hite Parts" they are in Ohio. Yes they disassemble the carb. completely and put it in a vat. I just got one back and it was like 350.00 + - with shipping. When you get it back it will be like new. Ive only had one come back that I had to adjust the cold high idle down a little bit. 99.9 % you just bolt them back up and they are good to go. After they rebuild it they will do a flow check on the bench and adjust it.
Trax I think your probably right but it leads me to a couple of questions. I see your in Austin and you used hite parts in Ohio, can a normal carb shop not do this? I would have figured there were some good ones out in texas that could have done the same thing. Im just curious why i couldn't use someone local that I could just drop it off with and pick it up. Next question i have is for that type of cost could you not get a new carb? thanks for all your info as well as the others on the site.
Hite Parts do these small engine carb. rebuilds day in and day out. They know them, understand them and who else does a flow test after the rebuild. I dont know anybody in Austin that will flow test a carb.. Ive used Hite a number of times and very pleased with their work. Yes, you can find someone local and they could possibly do a great job. But do they have the parts? Most likely, no. Will they know where to get the parts? Most likely, no. Yes, you can most likely buy a new carb. for that price and most likely it will be made in China. I rather stay with OEM and have Hite do their voodoo on it.
This is my plan of action, I think i am, at some point, going to send my carb to Hite Parts for rebuild but first and foremost I plan to pull the head on this engine over the next couple of days to see whether i have a head problem or gasket. If head is bad then i plan to pull my other engine and put in this truck. Once in running order I plan to get carb serviced properly. Thanks for the info.
Not yet because I don't have a compression tester.y dad does and I'm planning to try to get it from him next time I'm over that way. I may even try the loan a tool from O'Reilly's but as soon as I do I will post my results.
Alright guys I finally had a chance to go check compression on the engine. Below you will see the readings. Cylinder 1 had 150# Cylinder 2 had 190# Cylinder 3 had 195# Unless I did something wrong these were the readings. Let me know your thoughts.
Now do it again with a shot of 30wt oil in each cylinder if you havent already. If the psi is the same your valves are worn or need adjustment on that cylinder, if the psi jumps up considerable most likely rings are bad. My bet is valve adjustment on that cylinder. Bottom line with those #'s truck should run decent if everything else was working like it should.
so do i need to put oil in each cylinder or just the low cylinder? Remember this is the engine that i was told had either a cracked head or gasket, could that be the problem? Thanks in advance
# two and # three cylinders appear to be fine with those #'s. Yes, squirt one pump out of a oil can and just do # one cylinder. There are a number of articles on the web that will explain this method in detail. Go to google and type in "compression test cylinders on engine with oil" or something like that and start reading.
