My '99 Carry DB52T with the F6A engine appears to be burning oil. It smokes badly if I run at low rpm. If I get it up to constant high rpm's at highway speed, the smoke slowly goes away. Any ideas/solutions?
Have you changed the oil on the truck since importation? When we get a load of trucks in, we change the oil on them and they smoke a little for the first couple miles and then they quit.
Oil Issue Hello, its comon on import trucks due to the fact that when the are jacked up in a container the rear valve springs seals are soaked in oil (more than the should be). Oil goes past the rings when the truck is tilted up for too long (Container ride,etc). The seals go bad (kind of melt). At higher speed the seals are tighter (kinda like suction), therefore no smoke. If your rings were bad it would smoke all the time. Also do not run 10W40W oil! It can cause pressure fluctuation (and blow by at low speeds). Use 5W-30W, 10W-30W, or straight 30W. We use strickly 5W-30W oil for turbocharged engines. Cheers, Donald
How Long Have you had it? Basically, how long has it been since you got it? If its been 6 months or more its seal time. do not use oil aditives it will just screw it up more. When you buy a truck that has been jacked up in a container (almost standing up) all the oil from the engine, tranny leaks through overflow (breather tubs). Dealers should drain the fluids before sending them.
I've had it 2 weeks. I'm still running the oil that was in it (looked fresh changed). I'll change it (Castrol GTX 5W30).
Oil Change Only two weeks, then run a half can (its only 660cc engine) of engine flush before you change the oil (be a waste for new oil). Run it for 5-10min at vering engine RPM. Drain the oil out while its still warn (not cool). Drain the Oil Filter. Examine the oil for any parts, metal, rubber, etc. Filler up with fresh Oil and take her for a spin (at least 15-20 minutes). Cheers
That's exactly what & had planned to do. I've also been using a light mix of Lucas injector cleaner for the first few tanks. I've got the service manual in the mail. Wanted to get that before I did anything.
OK, smoke is not going away. I've changed the oil twice(Castrol GTX 30w) and added a can of Restore (helps rings and seal leaks) at the last change. If anything, the smoke has become worse. I still have plenty of power, but the smoke has got to go. Are there rebuild kits available for the F6A or new engines?
you can probably get a good used engine (hopefully better than yours) from one of the importers here for a good deal.
Before jumping the gun, check the plugs for obvious problems, and do a compression test. If all checks out, consider replacing the valve seals. they are pretty fragile, and are a common problem when oil burning is a problem. It doesn't take much oil to make a 007 smokescreen, so don't get too bummed. If the oil is pulled from below the rings, or from the valve guide seals, it will naturally be pulled via vacuum (which is highest at idle, when the butterfly is nearly closed) into the combustion chamber. A bad oil scraping ring, a small gouge in the cylinder wall (my problem), or valve seal will give similiar symptoms.
And, valve seals can be changed without pulling the engine. Pull the cam, be a good time for a new cam belt anyhow! I've replaced valve seals that were so hard and brittle, you could break 'em like hard plastic. Yet, they start out as rubber!
Was that a typo i.e. 30W? and should have been 10W30? Cause 30W isn't going to go over to good with your engine and could make your problem worse not better.
I'm trying to wrap my mind around the melting valve seals, and the choices in oil. Valve guide seals weakening while being bathed in (badly) contaminated oil I could buy, but the oil info I don't understand. 10W30 and 10W40 are the same viscosity when cold, and the difference at temperature is not much. 5W run here in this kind of heat wouldn't be a good idea, and straight 30W seems a little thick for low temps. Our fleet kei trucks (for the AF) run on 10W-40 with no problems.. we have about two dozen in various years and conditions. Just figuring blow-by would be lessened by using slightly thicker oil, rather than thinner. (Non synthetic as well)
The reason I went with straight 30w was because I read in one of the threads here or over on the Suzuki forums that the F6A did not like multigrade oil. I'm in North Texas, so low temps aren't really a problem. I'm going to work on it on my next day off and see what I can pin it down to. I just wish parts were more available. I hate waiting on UPS.
I'm sure this thread is long done with but here's to hoping. I have the same problem with the same year carry. My 99 carry smokes bad at take off....... Some times! Sometimes it's fine and no smoke at all but sometimes is enough to worry me! RPM did you ever figure this one out?
What color smoke? What does the smoke smell like? What do the plugs look like? How old are they? How many miles(km)? I see it's a 93 carry. Do you think it's an oil issue or fuel issue? Does your oil smell like fuel? Is your fuel contaminated? I guess my point is, it could be a number of things, or hopefully something simple. I'm thinking if it only does it at take off or start up, sounds like maybe a fuel issue with a dirty carb. Mechanic in a can, might be right up your alley, with dumping a can of sea foam into your tank! The good news is, that it won't do any damage, and it can't hurt! For $10 bucks, I would try it! Just trying to help! Limestone
Oh wow thanks for the fast reply, very appreciated. My carry is a 99, 95000 kms on er, I know it's burning oil, every few weeks I've gotta top er off. Not much but enough to notice it's lower than last time I checked. The smoke is a greyish white and for the plugs, I'm getting ready to go out and play around with it but last time I checked (2months ago) they looked the way they should except I noticed that there was a bit of excess oil on the threads of the plug. But the tips looked good but I'm gonna go out now and see what I come up with, I may go next door to Canadian tire and pick up a compression tester and check my compression but I have great power( for a carry lol) it runs strong, never misses, sputters and always starts on second or third roll. I do have a messed up idle though, if I take the e brake off and it rolls a lil, the idle goes up and it takes a while for the idle to go down when I first come to a stop. Does that sound like it could be oil burning related? Thank you so much for your input
Ok I just got in from working on my truck, the plugs look flawless, nice brownish grey tips, very surprised, I thought they were gonna be fouled up. She's burning oil badly though! I just topped er up 3 days ago and burned maybe $10 fuel and she could use another small top up. I may try some oil additive that claim to stop oil burning. Are you familiar with such things and are they worth a try?
Troy' I like the idea of a compression test! It will tell you a lot! Yeah, I do agree, burning some oil, especially if you've got to add oil every so often.(naturally) Sounds like rings, (internal engine work). Then you have to decide once your in there, what else do you do. For me, once I'm in, I'll try to do as much as I can, to prevent from going back in, down the rd. I can't tell you much about the carry, but I'm hoping some others will add to this soon! A good group of people on the forum! From what I do see on all these mini's and the foreign vehicles is that the carb. and the vacuum has to be in tune with each other, vacuum switches included. It seems that most of the problems, are Carbs., Electrical, and Vacuum! In many cases, they all tie together. All makes and models. Sounds like your heading in the right direction. Keep us posted. Good Luck! Limestone
If you have a decent compressor, and don’t already own a compression tester, you might want to look into a bleed down tester. The compression tester tells you something is wrong, a bleed down tester lets you know what is wrong. 8MILELAKE Leakdown Leakage Cylinder Detector Tester Tool Kit Engine Compression Tester Double Gauges System Tu-21 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819RDLYZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nU7FEbY3FP7NV
Some thoughts on this subject. Mine is a 2002 with a K6A engine. It has 257,xxx Kms on it. Have been running 20-50 oil in it as I reasoned (my old school line of thinking) that would be reasonable with the constant hot temps here in the Philippines. Noticed I was getting a good bit of smoke at startup (oil smoke) so the last time I changed oil I installed 5-30 which is recommended in the service manual. My smokescreen has virtually disappeared. I was thinking that the valve seals were worn, but this seems to have proven the wisdom of going with factory recommendations. Old Dogs can learn some new tricks.
Fred, I remember you mentioning that you thought you were going to need to do a ring job somewhere down the line, as you noticed your smoke screen. That's great info, you've educated us on, Thanks Again Friend! Stay healthy and safe! Limestone
You guys I truly do thank you for your wisdom and guidance, I've just done an oil change, I went with a good 10w-30, prior to the oil change I really didn't notice the smoke, although I didn't do much driving until the oil change( carry is new to me) the compression is exactly where it should be, I tried a bottle of valve sealer and now I'm James bonding it with every step of the peddle, more smoke than ever, wtf! I'm fairly decent with my wrenches, been a small engine repairmen for 20 years, is a valve seals replacement really doable without dropping the motor? Please help, any info is huge to me rite now. So frustrated, I paid $10,000 for this thing and all its its been is letdown after letdown
I need input please, I just went out and bought a new compression tester, not very expensive but I did buy the more expensive of the two options. I did a compression test on the three cylinders and cylinder closest to the front of the truck was 178, middle 176 and rear 179. I only did a dry test, I'm kinda limited on what I can do where I live. Live in an apartment and not allowed to work on your vehicle in parking lot but those numbers sound way to high, should I be worried? Thanks guys
Not high at all but good all in same range, 180's would be more better. No mechanic here just relaying what I've read no problem there Regards Brian
Oh thank God I got a lil worried when I seen such a high read, I read other threads that said theirs read 150's and 140's, 179 was higher than expected but thank you a lot! Stay safe pal
