While trying to change out all my vacuum lines I broke the nipple to my 93 carry front axle engagement solenoid, does anyone have any recommendations on where I can get a new one, or any thoughts on the link here where I believe this is the correct one. I'm super bummed as replacing these lines was fixing my four-wheel drive problems until I accidentally broke this part. https://yokohamamotors.net/suzuki-carry-4wd-vacuum-solenoid-pack-db71t-db51t-dd51t-details.html
Ebay. It doesn’t have to match exactly it just has to function correctly. A quick search for vacuum solenoid valve Suzuki -egr turned up a few for Geo Metros, and Samari which would probably work.
Can you thread the outside diameter of a section of properly sized metal tubing and just screw + glue it into the old solenoid in an effort to save the whole solenoid itself?
Yes good idea, after a night to cool off I'm going to attempt to glue it and maybe if I can find small enough tubing use it as a brace or something. I'm not very familiar w vacuum or solenoid workings so I'm not sure of how variable of an alternate system that I can get, but I will look into it if the repair fails as it will cost around $200 and over a month to have it shipped from Japan to the United States. Anyone used a solenoid from a diff make that I can get faster and cheaper that they could link me to
The solenoid valve is just an on/off device, apply current it opens or closes. The only thing which varies is the valve normally open, or normally closed. Typically, in this application they are normally closed, but with a filtered bleed circuit. When you apply voltage, the valve goes to the “open” position and connects the actuator cylinder to manifold vacuum, via a reservoir can. When you remove the voltage the connection to the manifold vacuum is cut off, and the filtered vent circuit opens, to let the chamber relax. On the minitrucks the actuator is a dual acting unit. Apply vacuum to one side and it engages the lock. Apply vacuum to the other side, and it disengages the lock. In order for the actuator to move both ways, you have to release teh vacuum on the other side. Thus the vent circuit on the solenoid vacuum switches. So electrically, when you push the switch to lock the axle, voltage is applied to one of the solenoid valves, and it opens the connection between the actuator diaphragm, and move the link to engage the axle.
So prior to doing any vacuum line work my four-wheel drive was not working. I started by changing out the vacuum lines on the rear axle, after replacing those my four-wheel drive and diff lock began to work correctly. Still my front axle lock was not working. I was hoping when I switched out the front axle vacuum lines it would correct that problem. I attempted to glue the nipple back on it seems like it worked successfully however now my four-wheel drive and diff lock are no longer engaging. I'm not sure if this could be a problem for that front solenoid, when I stick a very small perfume nozzle tube in the solenoid nipple hole that I repaired after removing that line I can hear some air escape or pressure release a small hissing, could this mean that the problem is the solenoid isn't functioning correctly perhaps maybe a little bit of glue got in there and is binding it up?
Hi I wonder if you have found the solenoid somewhere? I just broke a nipple off also!! Arggghhh! The solenoid on the Yokahama site says discontinued... I cant see exactly the one on the yokahama site but mine has 3 nipples on it. top botton and one out the back. Is this what yours has also? Thanks
My axle lock is completely unreliable (goes on and off on its own). Instead of chasing wires and unobtanium parts, I'm using a solution featured in a Mike Festiva YouTube video ("Maintenance Guide for Suzuki...." at 17:43). Mike bypasses the switch, wiring, and module, and installs a simple two-way on/off vacuum switch directly to the actuators: Pull up and the axles lock; push down and they disengage. It's like having manual hubs without having to get out and engage them. (Mike even lists the specific parts you'll need). It's elegant in its simplicity, and I think it will be more reliable than the 25+ year old complexity of the original design.
Thanks for the primer on the solenoid system for the locking axles. I'm new to mini trucks so this was incredibly helpful. I'm thinking of swapping my open diff on my carry to a locking diff and wanted to learn more about how they locked. Cheers!