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93 Carry DD51T Carb Tuning

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by Cole, Aug 6, 2017.

  1. Cole

    Cole Member

    Hey awesome! No problem. Glad it helped you. If everybody can contribute something we all will benefit!
     
  2. milmor88

    milmor88 Member

    Great write up i have attached some diagrams and such that i found to be helpful, as well as a picture showing the actuators as well as what they do and finally an diagram to show the diff between 2+3 and 3+2
     

    Attached Files:

  3. KCCats

    KCCats Member

    So have we ever found the best place and price on the parts themselves?
     
  4. dalez0r

    dalez0r Member

    milmor88, what's that black line off the manifold right in front of the carb going to?

    I'm drawing up diagrams for the 94 Scrum Van to share, once I get it all sorted :D
     
  5. rugerman

    rugerman Member

    Are you referring to those carb coolant lines?
     
  6. milmor88

    milmor88 Member

    Which one are you refering to and which picture...the photos I found online but I shared it here
     
  7. dalez0r

    dalez0r Member

    milmor88: in the "vacuum lines overview" pic, black line going to a union in the intake manifold directly left of the alternator and north of the carb, oriented north-south. The nipple/union itself is hidden under the black/gray line running east/west to the thermo switch. It's definately a vacuum line.
     
  8. dalez0r

    dalez0r Member

    Still trying to figure out my 4wd van. I suspect that union is either for the 4wd or the airbox hot air flap system. Leaning towards airbox. Can anyone confirm?
     
  9. dalez0r

    dalez0r Member

    ^^ 99% sure that union is connected to the airbox hot idle compensator now, which lets extra air into the engine to lean it out when the fuel in the carb is hot and running rich. The 4wd is connected to the fast idle circuit's vac supply, and works now! woohoo!

    See my "1994 Every/Scrum van w/AC and part time 4wd vacuum diagram" thread in the Microvans subforum to see the master vac diagram I put together for these vans.

    I'm 99% sure I got it right, BUT it's not quite working right on my van. As soon as I start the engine the fast idle actuator pulls up even though everything is turned off and the engine cold. I disconnect the cables to the two vacuum valves, and it still pulls it up w/ vacuum coming from BOTH valves, so I'm guessing when no power is applied to them they default to passing vacuum. Any ideas how to troubleshoot the fast idle circuit??
     
  10. VanOne

    VanOne Member

    Have you tried pulling the wire from the fast idle relay that is under the dash(based on parts Diagram I'm fairly certain you can reach it by hand) to see if the actuator stops pulling up? If it does, you have a faulty relay.

    I had a 1995 Every where that relay, the place where it is supposed to be screwed on, and the wiring was removed and the actuator did nothing due to not getting power. It moving when no accessories are on would indicate the relay is not functioning correctly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2019
  11. dalez0r

    dalez0r Member

    Well, I'm assuming those vacuum valves are normally open, because even with power disconnected from the two valves I'm getting vacuum from both of them, so pulling the relay would not change anything that that did not accomplish... The system DID work before I fixed other parts of the vac system, but I've got it plumbed according to this diagram and I'm not sure what's going on:
     

    Attached Files:

  12. milmor88

    milmor88 Member

    Hey just replacing a carb now and the small line from the manifold direct downstream of carb goes to a tee which then goes into the airbox right beside where it connects to the boot that goes to carb, and the other part of tee goes to the forward airbox vac. Line nipple on bottom of airbox. Back bottom nipple on airbox connects to the warm air actuator thing which i have removed and therefore capped. The line off the intake came off on mine today couldnt figire out why it couldnt idle and dipped in rpm randomly on way to work. It also had a hell of a time starting...backfired so loud it was like a 12 ga.
     
  13. SDK1968

    SDK1968 Active Member

    can anyone tell me where this #6 screw is? i cant find it.... the pictures Cole has posted here isnt exactly how my carb looks...

    manual hasnt shown up yet.
     
  14. email2r2

    email2r2 New Member

    If you don't want to get crazy over that A/F ratio screw, just drill a ½in hole beside the seat belt anchor...
     

    Attached Files:

  15. SDK1968

    SDK1968 Active Member

    ^^^^^ nice common sense tip! might just have to do that!

    cant even get that plastic protector off of the top of it as it is currently.
     
  16. email2r2

    email2r2 New Member

    Here's another diagram for the vacuum line (came from megazip.net site) with a 3+2 configuration. Does anyone knows what is the purpose of #7 part. It kind of cut vacuum to the choke actuator and also the EGR valve...
     

    Attached Files:

  17. rugerman

    rugerman Member

    No clue what that thing is there. The Japanese did things back then that somewhat useful but some things were more of a "why not?' kind of thing so unless you can find someone with the knowledge of what it is.....its just that little thing on our trucks with a couple vac lines going to it that you don't dare disconnect or it will run worse than it already does.
     
  18. rugerman

    rugerman Member

    Back on this carb topic. I have never been able to set my choke rpm's with the #5 screw. My carb is tuned perfectly, vac lines are new silicone etc, truck runs perfect and all other carb functions work perfectly.

    Only problem is that as the choke backs off as the coolant circits warm the rpms don't settle down because they never start high. In fact it starts at the regular ide rpm's all the time. Only problem with this setup is that when it gets below 50degrees F it doesn't start. I can look at the choke and it is working and opening up perfectly as it should as the pusher pin retracts. I had my #5 screw turned all the way, nuthin. backed it out 2 turns …..nuthin. does backing the screw out raise the choke rpm's? Anyone have any input on this one?
     
  19. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    #7 is a thermostatic vacuum valve. They came in various flavors, with the various ports opening and closing at different water temps. Typically they were color coded, with the color being cast in the plastic body or seal of the screw in base to the port assembly. I used to have a chart which explained what ones did what. But unfortunately, I got rid of it a few moves back. NiponDenso made them for most Japanese manufacturers, and if needed you should be able to find a new one using the number of ports, and color. NAPA might even have them, and be able to match them up if you go in on a week day afternoon when they aren’t busy.
     
  20. Alarmguy

    Alarmguy New Member

    Where can you find these threads for a 3+1 conversion? I'm new to this site (and owning one of these little trucks), and maybe I'm not searching the site right, but I can't find anything. Before I read this (and out of frustration with my old carb) I bought a new one, but it is a 3+1. It had a 2+3 originally (1993 year model). The new carb runs a lot better at higher rpms (over 2000 rpms), but dies if less than that. Sometimes at some lower speeds it will run for a bit, then (seemingly for no reason) quickly tries to die. Pumping the accelerator is the only way to keep it from dying. I've worked on a lot of car engines. Cut my teeth on GM and Ford V8's, have worked on tons of boats and Sea Doos - motorcycles too, and thought I was a pretty good mechanic, but these things are a seemingly needlessly over complicated pain! Especially the crazy vacuum maze! Anyway, help with adapting a new 3+1 carb to what was a 2+3 would be greatly appreciated!
     

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