Hello, I have a 92 suzuki carry. Drove it a couple of hundred miles with no problems,, thing would go 110 KM ran like a top! Now it barely get to 60km,, Changed the fuel filter which was pretty nasty, changed the fuel pump, and air filter, changed the spark plugs (they were a bit black, so its on the rich side.. Tried some carb cleaner, all to no avail. Moved the distributor a bit, for timing in both directions, still the same problem. Check the cap, cleaned it, going to order a new cap and rotor, but I don't think thats the problem. It idles ok,, not perfect. It revs fine in neutral. No major engine noises or smoke.. Tried to check most of the vacuum lines.. To me it seems like its not advanceing the timeing when under load.. Or the carb isn't putting out at topend? Any suggestions, comments or other things to check, has anyone else had a simialiar problem? Thanks, Kent:frustration:
Lets add a bit more information. While driving it, and it being "doggy" in third gear trying to get the rpm's up.. It took off! was able to shift to fourth and it kept reving great! went to fifth,, it kept going. Just Great! Got it up to about a 100km. This went on for about a mile. Slow down for a turn and it went right back to "doggy" 4th gear,, barely able to get to 60km. I'm scratching my head over this one.
sounds like a vacuum leak of some sort. Check all of the vacuum hoses, and see if you have one that is cracked.
I'll check all again in the morning,, Probably use some soapy water,, and try in find it. Thanks for the suggestion.
I can see using soapy water for air that is leaking out. it would make bubbles like on a tire leak but, what is that going to do when you are sucking air in? what i've done in the past is to spray a shop aerosol like carb cleaner or brake cleaner (something flammable) along the lines and look for the change in rpm's. its probably not the safest thing to do but, it's helped me find vac leaks.
Well, if he does have a cracked hose, the soapy water will briefly "seal" the bad hose, untill the stuff gets sucked into the system. The tiny amount of soapy water won't hurt anything, and certainly won't lend to any flammable surprises. I'd plumb a vacuum gauge into the dash myself, so I could watch what's happening as the vehicle acts up in real time.
Thanks for reminding me,, I got a vacuum gauge,, last time I used it was on my old 69 blazer,, I just t'd it off to the distributor vacuum hose. I'll try it with the mini and see what I come up with. There's just a butt load more of vaccuum lines on a mini and a lot harder to get to than an old chevy. Have a good easter sunday.
I've got one too, i think its been in the back of the bottom drawer of the tool chest for years. I used it once for a leakdown test. you're right its one of those tools you forget about...
I had one that was missing and acting up. The hose to the brake booster was disconnected. It connects in by the front cyclinder. Yours might not be disconnected but could be cracked or have a small leak. The fact that you slowed down (used the brakes) to turn the corner may cause this problem. Just a thought. Jeff
Cut the exhaust off with a sawzall, one of the first things I tried. Didn't make any difference. Didn't really have a chance to work on it today, had family down. But take it for a short drive, same thing, "doggy" then it took off and ran good for about a 1/2 of a mile. I'll check the brake booster lines tomorrow, and go back thru it.. I may just buy 10' of vacuum hose and start replaceing them all. While I'm at it, I'll probably replace all those little coolant lines going to the carburator too. Thanks for all the input. This one has me stumped.
Hello everyone, I am new to the forum. Just joined on Sunday, I will send pictures and stuff when I get a chance. I have a Suzuki with a 550cc. The truck runs like a top and is in mint condition, but seems to have simmilar issues like you are having. My truck has been like this the whole time I've owned it, approx. 6 mon.. Just figured thats how it is. I love this thing but it seriously needs more horsepower.
clean the egr valve... they have a tiny hole in the and a pai to get truly clean... a vacuum pump will help cycle it to see it fuctioning... also what about the catalytic converter... i think it is a manifold type, if so, gut it out... i have one that runs exactly like you say and i have tried a good used cap, but i still think this is the root of the problem... the egr was clogged bad, and the cat was stopping up as result of the misfire... if i "feather" the gas i can get it to run good, but i think this is result of the advance getting just right w/ a poor cap....
No power KEImore, you might check the mechanical advance mechanism in your distributor, the vacumm advance is for cruise performance and when you are really on the gas manifold vacumm is nill to none so even if you have a small vacumm leak I doubt this is your problem.You may have some trash sloshing around in the float bowl of the carb,I have seen a gnat stop up a main jet like a cork.Draggbody mentioned a manifold type catalytic converter,I was told my truck did not have a converter, but I have thought that the manifold setup was strange not to be a converter.
Thanks for the suggestions. Haven't punched out the cat yet, the two bolts holding the pipe on are pretty froze up and I have been soaking them. Don't think its the cat though,, if it was it would be doing it all the time. I'll pull the ekg valve tomorrow and replace the lines going to it. Have replaced a few of the vacuum hoses, the ones attached to the intake manifold are hard from the heat. but no effect yet. Checked the brake vacuum hose, it seems to be ok. dumped some seafoam in it. Took off the stop idle solenoid and its funchtioning fine. Double checked the spark plug wires.. Cleaned the vent on the gas cap. Mechanical advance? My distributor has a can on it with a vacuum line going to it. Pull the line off and it dies. Any suggestions to getting the rotor off,, looks like I can turn it a bit and get to a phillips screw underneath, but didn't wanna take the chance of cracking it until I get a new rotor. I'll get it done sometime. :frustration:
The mechanical advance mechanism will be under the breaker plate as it used to be called or is was under the rotor on GM distributors,you should be able to twist the rotor one way and is should spring back.The mechanical advance works off the centrifugal force of the spinning distributor shaft.The mechanism can stick or a spring break and the timing will go haywire.You say your engine dies when you unplug the vacumm advance? Normally initial timing is set at a specified RPM with the vacumm advance unplugged,so you may be close to your problem.
Thanks, I did try to twist it, out of habit from gm distributors. and it didn't have much give to it. I just assumed that it was a jap thing. I'll dig into that once I get my new cap and rotor, hopefully it'll be here by this weekend.
be careful poking around under the cap. be gentle with the advance mechanisims, i ripped a vac diaphragm over-extending it once.
Thanks for the advice dan. I got bigger problems. Went to clean all the little water lines going to the carb, and do the flush to the radiator system. It had some black/brown gunk in it... Well that black/brown gunk was actually some kind of leak sealant.. I got water in my oil now. Who has valve cover/ intake/head gasket set available for a suzuki Fa6? :frustration:
These trucks have a motorcycle style constant velocity (CV) carburetor. The gas pedal operates a normal butterfly valve, but there is a vacuum operated sliding piston upstream of the butterfly valve. The piston has a needle at the bottom of it that regulates the amount of fuel allowed into the carb throat. There is a rubber diagram above the piston which uses engine vacuum to work against a spring pushing down on the piston. These rubber diagrams can develop leaks and will cause you to loose top-end performance. I would pull the carb apart, clean it, and inspect it. You may need a carb rebuild.
Hoits Truck Hello everyone. Hope all this works, still very much fumbbleing around this site. I have a absolute mint 1985 Suzuki Carry with 7000k on it. It was a fire truck at one time. The only dissapointment with the thing is the lack of power with a mere 550cc. I love this little truck, but surely it should go faster than 30-40 mph. All indications are that everything seems to be working fine, as the truck runs so good. I am trying to send some pics, we will see what happens.
Check your throttle cable for proper adjustment,the cables do stretch and you may not be getting full throttle.Have someone hold the accelerator pedal down and see if you can move the carb bellcrank any towards full throttle.If the cable is out of adjustment be careful,you want the pedal pushed all the way to the stop on the floor and the carb to just be at wide open,you do not want to be binding the carb linkage.
I Dad The Same Thing Happen, My Fix Was Not The Plug Wires But The Part That Holds The Spark Plug In The Head On My 660 Cc Suzuki Maybe This Can Help
Problems fixed Well after pulling the valve cover off, found out that the freeze plugs were the cause of water getting into the oil. Changed out fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, n cap. Had the valves set, and now it runs pretty good. Just got to knock the cat out, and add a decent muffler. Still need to get my tires balanced,,, cause I got a severe shaking problem above 60km. Like the little beast,,, perfect for carrying my two chainsaws, fuel, oil, etc.
Basic stuff I did, had a local guy that is good with 4 wheelers take care of the water in engine problem cause originally i thought it was a blown head gasket. Parts are expensive, but available, I got most of mine thru mactown. They did a great job, of giving me advice and getting me the parts fairly quick.
Any chance the catalytic converter is plugged? I know it sounds weird but it would explain the symptoms.
low power I Had The Same Trouble Low Power And I Checked All Of The Lines And Found That The Spark Plug Wires Were Cracked In The Cly Head, Pull The Spark Plug Wires Out Of The Head And Check Them. Put New Set Of Wires On And Fixed It.
Yep. We have had several sets of blad plug wires intermittantly shorting out. Changed the wires, then all was fantastic.
