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'90 ACTY keeps droppin a cylinder or fouling out

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by TroutRiverCranberry, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    Hello all i went threw all the post and got some good tips but i do believe it is time for me to post and try to get some real good dead on ideas here it is a 90 Honda ACTY SDX AWD 660 3 Cylinder it all start out i think that one of my employees may have put some diesel in the tank but we took care of that checked filters cleaned everthing up but it still fouls out when you try to drive it usally when you hit like 3rd gear just drops a cylinder and starts coughin and spitting i mess with the throttle and manage to get the other cylinder back up and running and go for a little bit again. I repalced the plugs and wires and cleaned the cap up. I am goin to tear into the carb this afternoon clean it up. I was just wondering if anyone has any input about anything i had a awful thought that maybe the timing was off a little how could i look into this without buyin the damn manual from lulu? Also is the firing order 1-3-2??? Maybe that could be my problem any help would be just awesome thank you all so much
    Jeremiah
     
  2. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't think a carb problem would be the problem..sounds like poss. the coil/timing
     
  3. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    The timing is supposed be set at 4 deg BTDC at 1150 rpm for the manual tranny and 950rpm for the auto. There is a small rubber plug down around the EGR valve that you pull out to see the flywheel and with a timing light attached to number 1 plug wire(furthest cylinder from the distributor) and the 4 deg mark is ether a 4 or a red mark. The white mark is top dead center. I never did check the firing order but I can if you really need it. The next time it does it stop and pull the plugs and see if one or all are fuel fouled.
     
  4. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    okay well i am still workin on this damn little thing lol, i replaced plugs wire rotor disb cap air filter fuel filters pretty much and 100% tune up and it still was doin it so i brought it in and tore the air intake off so it was running straight air into the carb and tried it and it runs pretty damn good i mean obviously it just dosen't have peak hp at the top end because it is pullin the straight cold air into the carb but it never fouled out a plug or booged down???? Im thinkin something simple like vacuum line or something in the air intake i am workin on tearing the air intake out right now and clean everthing up but any ideas???
     
  5. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    There are two wires going to the carburetor for solenoids. One is for fuel shut off and the other is for the fuel bowl vent. With the engine not running and the ignition on dis-connect and re-connect the wires one at a time and listen for the solenoids to click. It sounds like the bowl vent solenoid is bad. When it goes bad it doesn't allow pilot air to be mixed with the fuel at the jets and it floods out at higher RPM's. Thats why it runs better with the intake open it's getting more air.
     
  6. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    Thank you so much you are so helpful i will look into that here quick and let you know what i find out, thank you again so much
     
  7. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    Okay i did that and i can head the yellow one click but the other one i cant hear doin anything that mean its prolly bad? Now what we are referring to is the Throttle Cut SOL.V and the Air Vent Cut SOL.V found on page 120 of the user manual right? im assuming it is the air vent cut that would be the one causing the issue? So now before i go tearin this carb out and apart to get to the bad boy are they replaceable what are we lookin at for a price? is there a sure way to test this before buyin more parts? Thanks again so much for your help i def need it :)
     
  8. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    First test is to verify that it's getting 12v + at the connection with the ignition on. Second test would be to check the resistance between the wire connection and the body of the solenoid. A good solenoid will show some resistance. Now comes the bad news I wasn't able to find a replacement when the solenoid went bad. My two choices were to remove it from the system or buy a used carburetor to get another solenoid. To remove it from the carb I put a plug in the casting the the solenoid mounts to to block off the line to the vapor canister and then I made a metal plate to block off the solenoid mounting area. I also bought another carb to have on hand in case I need it but so far it runs good with the solenoid removed. The only then I've noticed is that on a hot restart it runs a little rich because the fuel bowl vapors are not being vented off to the vapor canister but it clears up in a few seconds after starting.
     
  9. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    Here are some pictures of the offending solenoid.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    ok well i tried testing it by unplugging and pluggin it back in and listening for the click i could hear it on one not on the bowl air vent one, so i tested it for resistance and it didnt have it but then it seemed like if i wiggled the wire i would get some so i tore it out and layed it on the bench and test it and i get resistance??? i just am unsure if it bad or not or what to do from here i guess.
     
  11. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    If you have the whole assembly out like in the picture above you can apply power to it and see if the plunger pulls in. Likely the solenoid is going bad and if you can't find someone that will sell you one without buying the whole carburetor you can put a plug in the hose that connects on to it, make a metal cover plate and seal off the mounting area. I just made a cover out of 3/32 steel plate that matched the outline of the solenoid mounting flange with holes for the screws and put a tight fitting plug in the casting hole where the pull rod and rubber plunger was.
    If you don't plug the hole leading to the vapor canister line it will draw too much air and not run right. I know because the first time thats what I did and had to take the carb off again and plug the hole.
     
  12. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    Ok so i fabed up a cover and was puttin it all back together wasnt real sure on exactly how one part went on so i checked your picture you have on here and when lookin i noticed that the part (the plunger assemply) that went directly above this solenoid you dont have on there anymore???? can it be removed does it need to be just curious thanks.
     
  13. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    The other plunger your talking about is only there if you have A/C or an automatic transmission. I can post a picture of that set up if you need it.
     
  14. TroutRiverCranberry

    TroutRiverCranberry New Member

    truck has no ac and a manual tranny and i still have that plunger.... weird i put a rubber gasket inside to plug it like you described and i think it was to much cuz it was floodin the plug horrible wouldnt start so i tore it apart again and cut the rubber way down so it fit only in the machines hole inside the carb. Try it here after lunch and hope it goes thank again for all your help.
     
  15. OldMachinist

    OldMachinist Moderator Staff Member

    You just need to plug the passage way that goes to the hose connection. The hole in the carb has to be open to allow air to the jets.
     

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