still trying to time my s81 engine after broken timing belt. Cranks fairly well when cold but heats up and dies.. can change idle speed at will with carb adjustment screws but still may have a sticking float...Anyway the truck ran fairly well before the belt broke. Rotating the distributor slightly one way or the other has no effect which is confusing. I believe its carb or timing. Someone please help:frustration:???
here's the ignition and timing pdf that Mcgeorge posted a while back...it will help you trouble shoot your dist issues http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=7754
You say it cranks fairly well till it heats up, that tells me the starter is good until it heats up? If it starts are you saying it runs ok until the engine warms up?
Yeah it cranks and runs and gets hot and dies...I believe I may have the engine crank #1 cylinder at btdc on the exhaust stroke due to unclear marks Also spewing coolant out of hose fittings. Any thoughts?
Define spewing out of fittings, the coolant hose fittings only or somewhere else? Are the hoses just too lose? Check to see if radiator is getting pressurized real fast before heating up, if it is then you have a head gasket leak or something like that. Combustion gases in cooling system can cause it to overheat. Do you have any idea why it is dieing? Fuel starved cause choke is opening too soon or just not getting enough fuel. Too hot and locking up? How hot is it getting? Take your thermostat out and see if that helps, it shouldnt get up to temp then and will tell you if stat it is bad. Does it run smooth and strong for a while or just barely running at first? If timing is off 1 tooth then it will run but just not real smooth or strong. Did you check valves when you broke your belt? A quick and easy way to check valves is to unhook spark wire from coil and crank for 5 seconds, if all strokes are even then all is ok but if 2 are the same and 1 is little higher pitch then you have weak valve. Just listen to the starter whine pitch. tom
Yeah when broke belt all 6 valves were bent and new ones lapped and replaced. Seem to have fixed problem by rotating the crank. I had the timing at btdc on the exhaust stroke. Found a faint F mark and notch. I guess for every one rotation of the crank, the cam takes 2 and that's where I was off. Just put hose clamps on the spewing hoses. Also, could tinker with distributor a bit bit afraid to because after some carb adjustment it runs pretty damn good. Please add anything you can and thanks! .
Wow, just drive it a while, later you might move the spark adv. some, good job, its how we all learn! tom
Make sure you dont have it set on just fresh cool air. You might have an air bubble in it from the repairs so park on steep hill nose down and rev engine some, does engine get up to temp, if so then thermostat is good. get a piece of heater hose and hook it up on one end of heater core and another piece for the other end and force garden hose water through the heater core both ways till you get good flow. if you get a lot of crud out then you need to flush the whole cooling system. when its working right and up to temp then one hose will be warm and the other hot. mine had a nest in it that kept the air from going through. tom
Ok got heat now but now I want to time the engine with a light How do I go about that? Runs well but dies when downshifting/coasting and hard to drive with 3 feet!!
remove the rear engine cover..the timing light will have 3 connections..a pos. and a neg for the battery to power the light..just attach them to the battery posts..the third is the inductive clamp to read spark through the plug wire..this inductive clamp always gets clipped onto the #1 plug wire no matter what vehicle you are working on..#1 is always the closest to the front of the engine..so the wire closest to the front pulleys on your truck is #1..now you have to unhook and plug(a golf tee will work perfectly as a plug)the vacuum line going to the distributor vacuum advance so that the timing will be set at its base line.start6 the truck and let it get to normal operating temp and rpm..at warm idle rpms should be around 900,and timing is always done on a warm engine at idle with vacuum line plugged. Now remove the black rubber cover (about the size of a matchbook) from the top of the engine between the engine and transmission..it's right on top of the bellhousing . the timing marks/numbers are located under that rubber cover.stamped onto the transmission case..they will line up with a notch on the flywheel you will be looking for with the timing light..if your timing light has a numbered dial on it set it to 9..that will be a baseline advance (you can easily advance timing to 14 or so to get a bit more low end power but 7-8 is stock so aim for around 9-10 just to get started.) if the timing light has no dial you will use the numbers stamped on the transmission case to line up with.. now with the timing light all hooked up you just aim the strobing light at the top of the flywheel and you will see a notch in the flywheel dancing around on the flywheel..the timing light is supposed to flash every time that notch comes around on the flywheel,and make it look like it is standing still...loosen the distributor bolt so you can rotate the dist. back and forth until the notch on the flywheel is visible ..if you have a dial on the timing light set to 9-10 you want to rotate the dist until the notch in the flywheel hovers at the TDC or 0 mark...if your timing light has no dial you want to turn the dist. until the notch lines up around the 10 stamped onto the transmission housing...once it is lined up tighten the dist bolt and hook up the vacuum line again...done
That was very very very helpful! Got it timed at 9-10btdc. Had it way too advanced...as far as the vacuum advance, mine has a 6 inch hose coming out of distributor that doesn't go anywhere????
your vacuum hose should hook up to a pipe on the top of the carb I'll try to find a photo to show you which one..at work may not be able to find one
Yea, without that hose hooked up you dont have any advance on timing and you wont get full power at speed.
Any pics??? There is one open pipe on carb not being used. Also the new plugs I got are much longer than the new and I'm afraid to use them
An extra open port on carb is enough to screw thing up so if it has a strong vacuum on open pipe then just hook it up to the hose on the distributor. You wont hurt anything. If the longer part of the spark plug is inside the engine then DO NOT USE THEM, outside of engine is ok tom
Thanks for the pic. I thought it was open but it was plugged along with several other openings ...somebody went crazy plugging stuff on this engine. Vacation diagrams in manual are not very helpful.. still can't make out exactly where the vacation advance connects.thanks! !!
I just posted a link to all the Daihatsu plug #s a few days ago...champion R9YCC I think..but check it to be sure..any of those plugged carb vacuum lines will be fine for the dist. advance...if someone monkeyed with all the vacuum lines it will take some patience to get them all in order..here's a s81 carb pic with vacuum lines attached..the dist. vacuum advance should be the vacuum line closest to the left of the idle mixture knob (circled in yellow) in the pic....it disappears behind the egr valve at the top left
Ok thanks to yalls help I got vacuum lines right. Now I believe my alternator is bad Any suggestion on a replacement? Thanks again!
I picked up an alternator for my Mira ...same one as on the Hijet for around $100..they are on ebay if you do a search...an auto parts store will test it free so take it for testing before you spend the $ on a new one
Ok got engine running and idling at about 90% asand that's great for me! But as far the heater goes...I flushed out the core and there was a bit of crud not much. Not overheating and blower is good..???
ok, stuff garden hose into radiator to keep full and next take off the hoses at the heater core and run engine a little, should be a good flow of water from one hose, if not it is not heater problem but a clogged hose, if is good flow then hook up the pressure heater hose into the heater core and leave the other loose to see how much goes through core, should be about the same flow as without core in line. If you have good flow through core then is not heater fault.
Then as engine warms up the hose going to the heater should heat up as well, if it does and core is good then you have a fresh air flap diverting the air around the core. Check to see if both hoses at the heater seem to be the same temperature, one should be hot and the other cooler because of heat going into cab. If both the same hot then air is not going through the core from blower. The water to the heater should begin to warm up even before the radiator because it goes around the thermostat not through it. Check all moving parts for a diverter flap of some sort. tom
ok, now i'm gonna have to put the heater issue on the back burner...cranked it up today and it started nicely and idled fine for 20 mins. I raced the engine a few times and it died. Started back easily with an erratic idle and then began to idle really high on its own. I messed with the adjustment screws for a while and got frustrated. I believe there is something going on with the choke. maybe sticking? Any thoughts? thanks!
