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4 wheel drive

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by Paul Cianciolo, Jun 15, 2019.

  1. Paul Cianciolo

    Paul Cianciolo New Member

    Hi Folks,

    I bought a 1994 Carry with axle lock and dif lock. Neither the limited slip light or dif lock light come on. I put the truck on blocks and when I engage the 4x4 the front drive shaft spins as it should but the Axles aren’t spinning. It’s not turning my front wheel / wheels?

    Is it not engaging the axles because the dif / axle lock switches are bad? Please help.

    Thank you
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
  2. ttc

    ttc Active Member

    Limited slip??? I think you mean the front axle disconnect.
     
  3. Paul Cianciolo

    Paul Cianciolo New Member

    Yes, axle lock and dif lock.
     
  4. ttc

    ttc Active Member

    Have you check e the vacuum lines? To the actuator on the front diff?
     
  5. Paul Cianciolo

    Paul Cianciolo New Member

    I haven’t. I’ll have to research where to find those so I can check. Where are they located and what am I looking for? Thanks
     
  6. S.Hiro

    S.Hiro Member

    Hello, I think you need to check electrical parts or wires if all working,
    hope this will help,
     
  7. Scott Murphy

    Scott Murphy New Member

    Paul, Did you get your problem fixed? What did you ever find?
     
  8. Duke Selinium

    Duke Selinium New Member

    Hey, I've got a 1990 Suzuki Carry and I'm having the same problem. Funny thing with these trucks is: I've noticed that sometimes this issue resolves its self. Right now my truck had been sitting a while and the lights aren't coming on for the Axel Lock and Diff Lock. The green 4WD light comes on the dash, and it still goes into Low range, but the front wheels aren't engaging. Who knows the most likely issues with this? This seems to be a common issue for older trucks that have sat for a while.
     
  9. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    I could be off base here, but reading this thread, that started in June, 2019. Not all that long ago. With no posted resolve's! I tend to agree with S. Hiro! Don't be afraid to clean any electrical connections, and use Die Electric grease on them, especially on any so called solenoids, with vacuum lines attached! Especially as these mini's get older, observe how the old grease is getting hardened and, kinda corroded over! Not good! I don't see how it would hurt! I did this and have had good luck on my 89 Daihatsu!
    Limestone
     
  10. Duke Selinium

    Duke Selinium New Member

    Do you have any idea of which solinods were problematic on your 89 Daihatsu Hijet?
    I am having the same 4WD problem on this as the Suzuki was having. The front Axel lock does not lock up when the 4WD button is pressed and the light on the dash doesn't come on.
    I've tried cleaning all sorts of electrical connectors with contact cleaner, including the connectors right under the front seat that haver vacuum hoses coming out of them. The button on the lever Is working. how can I fix this?
     
  11. ttc

    ttc Active Member

    If my ment is correct power goes from the switch to the light and to the selonoids. Then to ground. If a solenoid burns out then the path for everything go ground is broke. All my manuals are on my old laptop.
     
  12. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    I wish that I had answers for you. My 4x4 hasn't acted up yet!
     
  13. Scott Murphy

    Scott Murphy New Member

    ttc, I'd love to know if this is correct or not. I've haven't been online in a couple weeks let me catch you up on what ive learned about my problem. to begin with none of my lights would engage. axle lock, diff or 4x4. My thought was it wasn't a solinod because if it was the light would come on but the 4x4 would not engage. So my problem must be electrical. I first checked the fuse box and found that the previous owner had a fuse jumper jammed in with a fuse to power the aftermarket radio. I unplugged the radio, pushed the fuse back in good and boom everything works. Next trip out, no 4x4. Same problem returns. Checked all fuses everything good. Thought on it a few days and decided it must a be ground. Went out wiggled the first ground I could find and boom everything works. Rode for 3 hours in 4x4 not a lick of trouble..... next day, no 4x4. same problem. checked fuses, wiggled grounds nothing would make it work this time. Finally got time today to full the entire dash out so I could actually get to the wires. Unplugged the back of axle lock switch and touched them with a test light. 1 prong had power coming to it just as it should. That answered my question that It was a ground. Plugged the switch back in and boom everything starts working again. Put the dash back together and get ready to ride and It wont come on. By this time my blood pressure is boiling. I ripped the dash back out and this time none of the 3 wires going to switch had constant power. So now i'm back to thinking Its a power wire and not a ground wire. All the fuses are good and the one that I think goes to 4x4 is pushed in good. Which I could be totally wrong about which one that is. What am I missing here? This is really getting frustrating to never know if its going to leave you stranded or not. Sorry for the long post, but if ttc is right a seloniod going bad could act as a bad ground?
     
  14. ttc

    ttc Active Member

    My old laptop with all my files boots then freezes. But I have some of the manuals in email. I can send you the 4x4 section.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  15. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Several post's through out the forum on these little things having electrical issues! Add as many and more grounding straps, that you possibly can, after checking out all your grounds, and electrical connections, using di electric grease on every connection after you've cleaned it! They will stay fresh for a long time after! Dorman, makes a nice stainless steel grounding strap, in various sizes!
    Limestone
     
  16. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Duke,
    I guess I didn't really, clearly answer your question on 4/7/20! My bad. On mine there is 3 Relay's, under the dash. One in which I labeled a start relay, wasn't getting juice to it when I would let off the spring loaded start key switch on the column. So I ran a wire from the on lead,(run), to the start relay, and Walla! With that being said, and not trying to hijack this post. I spent the better part of a couple months on and off chasing, every electrical wire, relay, solenoid and anything to do with the electrical system! Not being able to find an accurate electrical schematic, to help, was frustrating to some degree, but in my plans of doing just short of a total rebuild, I said the heck with it and dug in! I've had the dash out a couple times, when finally I literally took the whole wiring harness apart and checked every wire, connection, and ground! Cleaning and redoing anything that didn't check out, with the proper continuity! I had 12 volt buzzer's, 3 test light's, checking, power, ground's, everything, until we found out that the switch needed another wire to the start relay to stay running! The problem is, to this day I still don't know why! My friend, who came and helped me, is a mechanical guru, and good friend, and we would just keep going, scratching our heads! I have added a few ground straps, and I will add more as needed, during the rebuild. I'm not doing a frame off restoration, so I'm doing it as I go! Learning a lot about this little thing, and how it works, and functions! As far as a specific solenoid, Duke, I didn't find one, on mine that was acting up! But it just seems to me with the problem that your having, ttc, had a good point, with checking out the vacuum actuated, parts on your unit, for your 4x4. Electrically, actuated parts, with vacuum lines attached are suspects in these situations! Check continuity, to and from switches, to the actuator. Remember, vacuum lines get old and leak! Sometimes it's hard to detect, these leaks through several small hairline, cracks, so to speak! It's a good habit to replace these old vacuum lines any way's. They're a wear item like belts and hoses! Good luck!
    Limestone
     
  17. Limestone

    Limestone Active Member

    Scott,
    In reference, to what I was saying above to Duke. A lot of good info here and a lot of good idea's. I agree with you on the fact that there is some kind of Electrical problem, weather it be a loose ground, bad connection, whatever, it's aggravating! Is the fuse panel grounded? I ran a ground strap from one of the mounting screws, making sure that I had very good tight contact, to the strap, from the screw, with di electric grease as a rust inhibitor, in between the connections. I know, it's crazy, but as these thing's get older, take as much guess work out of the equasion, and eliminate, each and every thing that you go over and touch! Other wise you'll just keep chasing your tail, and that's not fun!:D I truly believe your on the right track, and it's a grounding problem! Dorman makes those stainless steel grounding straps that are inexpensive, either on line or at the auto parts stores, in diff. lengths. We get a lot of humidity in the summer, and all diff. temps. all year round, including snow, hot and cold, which causes extreme conditions, for rust and corrosion! That's why I'll use di electric grease as a rust and corrosion inhibitor, it really works well! My neighbor,(good friend), argued with me for 2 yrs. in a friendly way, about his 15-20 yr. old zero turn scag lawn mower. He said that every time he would go to start it, he had to jump it, everything was checked out, he said, battery was new, voltage was good coming from the battery, etc.... I didn't check any thing out, there was enough people in on it, I didn't need to get involved! So just recently, he asked my opinion. I asked if he checked the cable from the battery to the starter? His response was, THAT'S A 12 INCH THICK BRAIDED COPPER CABLE! I said good now that we've established the size of that cable, did you check it out? So a few day's later, he came back, and asked, after he talked to another help full neighbor. Hey, how would you check that cable out? I sent him back home, with a good set of jumper cables, attaching one Red lead to the battery, and the other Red lead to the starter naturally, leaving the ground to dangle, not being used, A jumper if you will! Walla, it fired right up! Needless to say, he came running over with my cables. He was totally amazed, the cable looks new, he exclaimed, it surely did! After he replaced it I told him to bring it over, and he did. I ran it through some test's proving to him, what he had found, but my friend has to see to believe, I guess like most of us, me included! So I split and peeled off the insulation, and again, the outside of the cable, that was up against the sheathing, looked good, almost new! So I had him hold one end, and I held the other end, and we untwisted the factory twist in the cable, and you could not only see the white colored corrosion, powder like, but you could smell it, kinda a musty, sulphuric smell, like you would see in, and around, a corrosive battery, terminal's! Naturally a new cable solved his problem! Thing's get old, and tired in life, like me, after this long post! I need a nap! LOL! :)I hope this is help full! Good Luck! Stay Healthy!
    Limestone
     
  18. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Active Member

    When I was running the shore power on my truck, and rerouting a the battery cables, to an alternate point where it was easier to add distribution points, I bought this one eBay: “seller:acdcwireandsupply ground strap 3/8“. I got a kit with the lugs, and 50-ft of 3/8 strap for $50, (price went up a bit since). You’ll need to go to eBay and paste in the search string, couldn’t figure out how to get a link from the app.

    All of the 120-volt lines are run inside of this and bonded to the ground on the plug in, and the GFCI, as well as the frame. I used what was left to add several more grounds on the truck, between everything that is isolated, but needs grounds.
     

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