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3rd brake light option(s)

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by limitlis, May 24, 2021.

  1. limitlis

    limitlis New Member

    Hey all, after tons of research I think I may have found the perfect 3rd brake light. Although it did require cutting some sheet metal, it functions as a brake light and reverse light. I also wired it to the original bed light switch but the reverse light isn't very bright (probably due to the smoked lens) and points straight out rather than down. This wasn't a big deal for me as the brake light was way more important. I will probably install a smaller separate led light for use as a bed light anyways. They also make them without the smoked lens and that might help with the light dispersion, but the smoked lens matched the color scheme of my truck better.

    Here is a link to the light: https://amzn.to/3hPb5DD

    There are several sellers, but the lights all pretty much look the same with the same sticker and wire colors, prices ranging from $45-65. but that link is the one that I purchased, time will tell how long it lasts.

    The light is designed to go in the rear of WRXs and Crosstreks, so mounting is completely a custom job which right now is only a 3d printed bracket, but I will eventually make one out of metal if my little desktop CNC is up to the task.

    But IMO the brake light looks awesome, and almost looks like it was meant for the sambar. Even the lopsided trapezoid shape mimics that of the rear window and headache bar.

    If anyone is interested I can post a write-up of my process and make the 3d models available on thingiverse for the bracket (and stencil to help with install.)

    Pics:
    Sorry about the mess, this is after cutting the hole and test fitting. It was way easier to alligator clip to the bed light wiring during this step. Hopefully i'll get some cleaner "glamour" shots soon.
    IMG_4736.jpg IMG_4737.jpg IMG_4734.JPG

    Here's the 3d printed stencil that I made which allowed some wiggle room for adjusting before
    kei-brake-stencil.jpg

    Here's the difference between the original mount and what the cutout. While the original passthrough hole is smaller, the original light extends past the holes so new light isn't much bigger.
    aftermath.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2021
    bentresearch and Drain like this.
  2. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I mounted an “Xprite” 31-inch rear bar, which gives me a full set of rear lights, brake, turn, reverse, and several flasher modes. The reverse lights are bright, and teh bar can be seen when I have my trailers hooked up.
     
  3. limitlis

    limitlis New Member

    You had mentioned the lightbar before, and I checked them out but in the end I went with something that had lower power consumption. Which unfortunately when combined with the dark lens also meant less light for the bed, bummer. Also my truck already had two lightbars installed. One front-facing fog & one front-facing flasher mounted on the lumber rack (granted they're probably cheap and generic ones since I don't see any branding), but I wanted to try something different.
     
  4. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    You did do a very good job of installing the one you chose. And, I tossed in the Xprite reference just for folks who may find this thread in the future.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2021
    JD687 likes this.
  5. limitlis

    limitlis New Member

  6. rkrenicki

    rkrenicki Active Member

    Is this the one you have? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713WJX3Q

    I bought one of these, but I have not installed it yet. I think I remember having trouble figuring out how to the turn signals work on it from the installation sheet.
     
  7. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Yes a 31-inch RYWYR. If I was buying one today, I’d get the 36-inch version in RYWWYR. The Lumber rack at the front of my bed is attached to the bed, not the back of the cab like it is on a standard truck. And it being a tip/picker, teh rack moves quite a bit as I raise and lower the bed. Which meant I had to mount the light bar to the cab.

    So the center bar and cross bar on the rack block quite a bit of the light from the reverse segment. If I had the 36-inch bar, the center of the two white segments would be lined up on the bar in the center of the rack, and more of the light would get to the rear.

    I have a remote controlled spot light mounted on the plow light bar, so if I really need light to the rear, I turn it on and face it back..

    On yours, I found the wire bundle going to the rear lights, and figured out from the stock rear lights which wire went where in them, and that let me figure out what was what in the bundle. I intercepted and cut the stock bundle about 4-ft behind the cab, and used the stock wires to trigger relays, which controlled wiring run to the overhead bar with the plow lights, and ran a new wire bundle to the back to hook up there, and the feed to the rear light bar all are hooked up through the relays, so eh stock wiring isn’t seeing much more than the stock load. I added an adjustable flasher unit, and changed out all the stock bulbs front and rear for LEDs. I figured an adjustable flasher was a better solution for the rapid flash rate you get with LEDs, than adding resistors, which get the load back to where it was before eh LEDs so the flash rate goers back down. But, part of their purpose of the LEDs was to decrease power draw, so I’m confused about how adding resistors get you to there.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2021
  8. justin079

    justin079 New Member

    Nicely done! Thinking of doing the same upgrade for my K-Truck. Is there any chance to get a copy of the stencil cut you made for the light? Also, where did you tap into the wiring system for the light? Thanks
     
  9. limitlis

    limitlis New Member

    Thanks! Let me know how it goes for you. I had to run wires from the rear of the truck for brake and reverse.

    I uploaded the STL files up to thingiverse, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5828719. Both the stencil (pictured above) and the bracket I made that holds the light from the inside (not pictured, but I'll try and remember to post a picture of the bracket in to the thingiverse page).

    A couple more tips in case you decide to go forward with it.
    • Make sure to put some sort of drop cloth in the cabin, or better yet tape up some sort of container to catch all the dust and sparks from cutting if you use a Dremel like I did.
    • I also used a face shield and glad I did since a couple times the thinner cutting discs just shatter and flew everywhere.
    • Double check the measurements from the 3d files/print against your actual light.
      • This is my first time distributing a 3d files for print, so just a heads up. But they worked out for me
    Hope this helps!
     
    Drain and bentresearch like this.
  10. Lgboro

    Lgboro New Member

    Where were you able to run the lights from the light to the underneath of the truck? I haven't been able to locate anywhere to hide the wires to date. I have a really nice truck and don't want to have exposed wires in my cabin from the light.
     
    JD687 likes this.
  11. JD687

    JD687 New Member

    Hi Jigs, do you have a diagram or a step-by-step process for installing your Xprite 30" to your truck? I want to mount mine on that protective bar structure just outside of the rear window so it's high enough for people to pay attention, but I'm really new to wiring jobs.
     
  12. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Welcome aboard, go to your profile and put the information on your truck in your signature line. Just click on your user name, and you will be t your profile, then add a signature line with the info on your truck.

    On my S11oP, the wiring bundle for the rear lights runs down the left frame rail. I followed it up from. The rear by the fuel tank until it went into the frame rail and opened it up about a foot behind that. I identified which wire did what, there are a ground, left turn, right turn, running, brake and backup. The stock wiring is very tiny 18, or 20-gauge, and it wouldn’t be heavy enough to run all th e lights I was adding.

    So, I used the stock wiring as controls wiring for a relay bank, and ran from the relay bank to the extra lights on the top bar, and the rear bar..

    Mine is the Scissors-Dump version, and the mechanicals for that mean my bed is about 4-inches higher off the rear frame, than the stock fixed beds. That gave me room to mount the relay box, etc. Not sure it would work on a standard bed, just because of the lack of room.

    The stock wiring in the harness to the rear lights on mine was: Green w/Black - Right Turn; Green w/Yellow - Left Turn; Green w/White - Stop; Green - Running, Red w/Yellow - Backup.

    But that may be good only for the Hijet S83, and S100 through 94.
     
    JD687 likes this.
  13. JD687

    JD687 New Member

    On my profile page I only see the option to add a status which then pops up if someone clicks on my name. Should I add my truck info to the end of my posts too or just in that status box? It's been a hot minute since I've used a forum haha.

    I have that same 18 gauge wiring all over the truck. If I want to use the Xprite 30" as brake/turning/reverse lights in tandem with my standards lights and always on when the truck is running, can I use the same relay approach you did or should I run new wiring?

    A couple of guys in one of the Facebook groups said I should run a trailer plug in and then plug the lights into that. What are you thoughts sir?

    2014 Toyota Pixis standard bed
    4x4 with locking rear diff
     
  14. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    Click your name in blue, and then the information tab, and the signature field is near the bottom.
     
  15. JD687

    JD687 New Member

    I figured out my issue the other day by using my laptop instead of my phone, so signature line is finally set up!

    Are you running that Xprite light bar in tandem with the stock brake/reverse/turn lights so its always on when those lights are on? That's what I want to do, and I just got my bar via UPS today.
     

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