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2007 DA63T EFI - Low Compression

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by GreenMachine11, Oct 23, 2020.

  1. GreenMachine11

    GreenMachine11 New Member

    Okay... So I need some input. After replacing my injectors, spark plugs, coil packs, etc. I've finally done a compression test. I was putting this off because I was most fearful of the expected results. Test results are as follows:

    1 - 45 psi
    2 - 90 psi
    3 - 65 psi

    Now, what can be done?
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2020
  2. SAITCHO

    SAITCHO Active Member

    Sorry to hear that.....Do you know what the compression should be at? Whats the mileage on the truck?
     
  3. GreenMachine11

    GreenMachine11 New Member

    I believe the compression should be around 140 psi. My engine has 80k km.
     
  4. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    OKAY! So let me start by saying this as nice as I know how, and not really what, and how I want to say it! First of all when I inherited my unit, I reviewed this forum, from afar, for two years, having several other projects already in the works! Then, I joined, the forum, and, (1) I did a compression check! (2) I checked to make sure, that parts were available! (3) I made sure that I had a plan, to install brakes, because I always felt that no matter how fast I go, I like to stop!!! So deciding on going ahead, and not off loading my unit, here I am! Even though the parts hackers out there like to charge 10 times for parts,(wheel cylinders), in particular, among all the other parts! I put together a budget, and decided to move fore ward, learning a lot, and enjoying it along the way! That's the path I chose! I don't think I need to rehash your path, because, To me the cup is half full, and your trying, and, moving fore ward. All these new parts won't go to waste, I'll give you that, but until you improve your compression, by at least rebuilding your top end, well son, your just gonna keep on chasin your tail, so to speak! If it were me, I'd do a complete rebuild! But, It's easy for me to spend your money! Your into it now, I don't think your gonna turn back now! I wish you the best, and, Good Luck!:eek:
    Limestone
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2020
  5. Koffer

    Koffer Active Member

    Leak down test , see is it valves, rings or head gasket . That will let you know if it’s a “ off with it’s head” or pulling the motor
     
    Limestone likes this.
  6. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    There you go!
     
  7. Kent

    Kent Member

    Engine is dusted... Probably needs to be rebuilt... Just my opinion
     
  8. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I’ll second the bleed down test. It will help isolate the problem so you know what your up against. If you have an air compressor, the only other thing you will need is the leak down tester, and they are fairly inexpensive.

    My first one cost me about a hundred dollars to build, in the early seventies, because they were unobtainable, even on the SnapOn truck. Now you can buy them on Amazon for less than thirty dollars.
     
  9. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Active Member

    The tool company's do pick up on things. Sometime late 60s/early70s I made a seal & bearing puller/pusher for the Cummins 855 NTC engine accessory drive as at that time I was doing a lot of field work on them. About 10 years later, I noticed OTC & Snap On were carrying a specialty tool very close to what I had made out of scrap.

    Fred
     
    Limestone likes this.
  10. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    Yeah pretty amazing Fred. We made a serpentine belt tool, in the heavy equipment shop, and that was mfg. by the larger corp., similar to the one we made! We were too busy working and making a living to apply for a patent and all that goes with it!
    Limestone
     
  11. OldBlindDog

    OldBlindDog New Member

    Check valves, they burn easily due to high temperature in k6A.
     
  12. GreenMachine11

    GreenMachine11 New Member

    Thought I'd jump back in here with an update... Finally did a leak-down test and had some major blow-by. So decided to start tearing the engine down. After removing the seats and center console, I was able to pull the head and access the valves without dropping the engine. Removed the valves and found that each one had about a 1mm+ of carbon. Bought some compound and lapped all valves. Now they all seat perfectly!! Since they all are seating so well, I don't believe that I will actually need new valves.

    Three things we did notice that cause reason for concern and maybe someone can offer some input?

    First, we noticed the cylinder walls have no signs of cross-hatch. Is this normal on these engines?
    Second, the timing chain appears to be stretched. Attempted to time, but always came up being about one tooth/chain-link off of dead center. Thinking this, along with poor air filter maintenance caused the low compression.
    Third, when reinstalling the valves to water test for seal we noticed that the valve springs seemed to have variable differences in pressure/resistance. Not sure if it is worth replacing them or not?

    My plans right now are to install new valve seals, timing chain and gaskets. Still debating on replacing valve springs... Anyone have any input or thoughts before I make my parts purchase?

    One last thing... I cannot find the oil pan gasket anywhere! Not on Megazip or Yokohama... ??? I believe it requires gasket maker/sealant.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2021 at 4:46 PM
  13. fmartin_gila

    fmartin_gila Active Member

    Not sure with the F6A engine. My DA62V has a K6A engine with a cast aluminum oil pan. When I broke it on a rock when fording a river a couple years ago, Megazip was the only parts supplier that had one in stock. Used a bead of RTV/Gasket maker to seal as I found no evidence of a pan gasket. Have had not one drop of a leak so that is how it was designed.

    Fred
     
    Limestone likes this.
  14. Limestone

    Limestone Well-Known Member

    If it were me, I would replace the Valve Springs, they do get tired! Not sure about the Cylinder Walls not being Crossed hatched! Are the Walls worn that much, the Cross Hatches are missing? Seen it before on other engines, not Minis! Maybe some one else can way in on that! Did you Mic. the Walls?
    Limestone
     
  15. Jigs-n-fixtures

    Jigs-n-fixtures Well-Known Member

    I’lll second new valve springs. they do weaken with age, and the typical mode of failure is to snap in to two pieces. This then lets the valve drop down into the cylinder, and on most minitruck engines will result in the piston hitting the valve. And, instantly you need a full rebuild.

    Typically when you’re fixing part of a system due to wear everything else on the system is also worn. the example which comes to mind instantly is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the input shaft for the transmission rides. If you clutch is worn enough to require replacement, replace the spigot bearing while you have things apart. Every load that caused the clutch to wear out, was also seen at the spigot bearing. So replace it, the relative low cost of the bearing, and time to install it, is tiny compared to the parts and labor to replace the clutch. And, if the damnable thing fails, it can destroy your new clutch. Best case you have to tear out everything to get back into a position to do the replacement.
     
    Limestone likes this.
  16. GreenMachine11

    GreenMachine11 New Member

    I went ahead and new springs to my order. I agree with you both, it seems a small cost to save from a bigger headache later. Also found out that there is not gasket for the oil pan. Just some good ol' sealant/gasket maker required. Thanks for all the input!
     
    Limestone likes this.

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