hey guys ive asked this before but never really got an answer... is becoming more of an issue. where/what is the deciding thing on the fan coming on ? someone told me it was done in the computer, but if thats so ? where is the sensor it gets its info from? temperature gauge works fine. fan works fine when hot wired (on with key) just cant get it to work in the factory set up. or should i install a temp activated switch somewhere then jump that into my hotwire? spill da beans! thanks sk
Not many have a 2002 year Carry I bet is why you don't have a solid answer. On the older models its a system of vacuum lines and relays with a temp sensor hooked in somewhere. All analog, there are no computers really in my 96 Every van.
Referring back to the thread you started Dec 1, 2020 and ended Dec 14, 2020. Did the aftermarket controller quit? Fred
Fred, its just never been consistent. 1 day it comes on at `120ish another day it doesnt come on at all. tried ever little adjustment on the control, but it just doesnt make any difference. just wildly unpredictable & dont want to overheat it in the summer under a load. likewise.. in the subzero temps it doesnt get very warm. one of those weird mystery things going on that i just dont have a good work around for. got any ideas?
No new thoughts on the subject. I did get a aftermarket on/off unit that I was going to install, just haven't got around to it yet. Maybe I won't bother with it now if they are so inconsistant to not be reliable. Mine was wired to run whenever the ignition is on when I bought it and I installed a on/off switch in the dash. I have always been one to monitor my gauges closely so am still using the dash mounted switch with no problems. Fred
Fred, YEAH. i had the dash switch for a while & then went to this adjustable temp thing.... its just NOT consistent at all. got a thought for you though, roll with me on this== how about a temperature switch like on the 4 wheelers? have it wired hot & use that controller as the on/off? they usually go in the radiator on the 4 wheelers/sidexsides... wonder if i could install it in the hose in a "t"? dont think theres a spot in this radiator to put it.
Most all OEM temp switches, whatever the type vehicle, are usually very reliable and consistant in their operation so if one could be adapted would probably be better than any aftermarket designed to be an add-on. Now that this matter has been brought back in to my attention span, you have almost created enough curiosity in my head to investigate further and see if I can determine exactly what they did to create the always-on situation. If I happen to think of it the next time I am just tinkering, I may try to chase it down. I feel it would be better to be full automatic operation as it was designed. Fred
Fred, hey what do you think of this style? could just put it right into my hot wire... https://www.ebay.com/itm/332829025143?hash=item4d7e27e377:g:cK0AAOSwmrlU1tSv its "non invasive" to the system...
Looks like it would work as long as you have enough open area to insert it in the fins. Very little to go wrong with it. 100 times positive over negative feedbacks. Kind of doubt it would handle the load of a fan on it's own. Would be useable to control a relay to carry the fan load. Fred
^^^^ ahhhh & this is why i ask you these types of things! if it would have carried the fan load? id hop right on this version. trying to simplify the system down so there is less to go wrong.
In my book, simplifying is also usually the best route to take, however in this case where the problem can't seem to be pinpointed, it might be wise to consider the option to fabricate & install a stand-alone fan control circuit as you would know & understand the why & how of what is happening. Would only consist of a senser, a relay, fuse & fan and the related wiring. Your call. Fred
as the weather gets better & warmer... hopefully this will get fixed on my to do list. will keep ya posted.
ok so here is what i ended up doing.... got one of those temperature/fan control units off fleabay likeFred said to do... ($29) https://www.ebay.com/itm/332498035420?var=541566332232 then i found a radiator that was about the right dimensions with fan & shroud... ($96) https://www.ebay.com/itm/382062048886 then got a radiator hose & some adapters from local auto shop ($12) no idea what it actually goes to, just had to factory 90*s & was the right diameter. so about $137 in it. put her in the shop & took it all apart, stripped it all out, test fit my new radi to the spot, had to redrill the mounting holes & make a couple brackets. it all fits & takes up less space than before with about 40% more cooling capacity. the biggest PITA was that the new radiator had 1.25" inlet & outlets & the old one was 1"... hence the adapters & new hose. it took some cursing & doing, but its working & not leaking. you can see in the pic that ive not put the grill back in yet, but i did fit it up & it will go right back in & still use the same screw holes. only concerns were that it didnt seem to "kick on" the fan hardly at all. temperature gauge stays perfectly in the middle right where it always did & the thermostat is opening (all hoses warm). the unit i got has a 180* on - 160* off & unless im really working it hard the radiator surface temp is only running about 165-170*. might drop this down to a 160* on & 145* off just to make sure that the motor is not "way hotter" than the radiator. sure doesnt seem like it, doesnt smell like it or sound like it either, but wanna make sure theres no air pocket in the head anywhere or any other such stuff before i put the grill back in. The pic attached is where its at right now. will update with pix, info or problems. if ya got input? bring it!
You seem somewhat concerned that the fan does not cycle on/off frequently. As I have mentioned in the past, I have always closely monitored my gauges and have been impressed by how the cooling system seems to be well balanced in that the needle stays about middle range and the fan is rarely needed except in gridlock stop & go traffic even here in the hot & humid Philippines. You say you have gained some cooling capacity so may have created even less need for the fan to run. Just my thoughts but it does seem you have handled the situation. Fred
Fred, thanks as always for your advice & input! its greatly appreciated! You are an invaluable resource to this board! a little concerned cause i know that overheating is the death of these little guys. looks like i gained about a quart of coolant over the old radiator. in a system this small that (to me) looks like a lot. but was just worried about the motor being too hot vs the radiator temp. maybe i need to shoot the block in more area's when its running & get a better average temp? what do you think the average head temp is on the outside? so if it doesnt need the fan very often now? awesome! i just tax the little motor out hauling loads of Ashe & Oak trees that we clean up. this is where your experience comes in even more handy: If its running a little "cold" with the thermostat not opening all the way.. is the engine still running hot enough for best performance? wouldnt that just make it a touch richer? (fuel economy is not important at all to me, power is) totally not related but still Mini: is there a scanner that works on these? none of mine find this by its name. is there a similar vehicle that would ID the same?
Granted that the dash temp gauge is rather a crude measurement but can only be used as a reference point as to whether you are overheating or not. In actuality I have no info as to the head & block temp, but the thermostats function is to maintain the optimum operating temp as it controls the coolant flow as needed to maintain that optimum temp. Note that the thermostat does not snap fully open or closed but opens and closes gradually as the wax pellet inside warms and cools along with the coolant. As long as the ECM is receiving the proper voltage signal from the sender, the ECM will control the proper amount of fuel flow from the injectors, unless you have a problem with fuel flow or pressure. As to a scanner, I have not found a OBDII connector on mine so have not looked for a scanner. When I sold out to move to the Philippines, I got rid of all my accumulated tools & equipment and now my troubleshooting is based on old school experience. Fred
Fred, lol making me feel stupid & teaching me at the same time. had no clue that the new thermostats still had wax in them. thought it was just a spring thing. so fuel/power wise its not problem. OBDIIport== mine has one will get a pick of location tonite.
At this point I do not know if they still use wax as the heat expanding medium to overcome the closing spring pressure. Please note that I am not talking down to anyone and I apologize if I came across that way. My van has been converted from right steering to left steering and in the process some of the wiring has been changed and possibly even eliminated as I noticed most of the heater & AC ducting is no longer there(not needed here in the Philippines) so it would be no surprise if the OBDII connector was eliminated as well. It was already converted when I bought it so I am constantly finding things which have been done in the process. Fred
Fred, never thought a negative thing was said. appreciate everything you do & share with me & everyone else here. *** Update: so far its working like a charm & purring like a kitten. still need to get that pick of the plug location on mine.
little over a month update.... still no overheating problems & the fan has only come on a couple of times in the yard with a heavy load . rest of the time the larger capacity & better flow seem to handle it without needing the fan. its getting mid 80's here everyday now, so will get some better testing in soon.
