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2" suspension lift install/fab

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by banzairx7, Jan 24, 2020.

  1. Ohkei Dohkei

    Ohkei Dohkei Active Member

    I measured ground clearance prior and post lift, and the front and back were equal before and after. I did not measure body height prior to the lift, but after the lift, I have 27" in the front to the fold near the top of the front bumper and 30" to the same fold near the taillight, so there is a little rake there.
  2. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    So the Justy axle is totally different than mine, KS4, except for the inner spline. It uses the drift pin style attachment. You could machine a groove in it but that seems like a lot of work. What I also found out is the 1993 Impreza 1.8 FWD manual has the same spline and circlip attachment as the KS4. I'm picking one of those up tomorrow. Fingers crossed I can swap the joint onto my axle. The impreza axle is much longer.
  3. Ohkei Dohkei

    Ohkei Dohkei Active Member

    Good luck. Mine didn't have a pin or a circlip. It could only be removed by disassembling the tranny. Luckily I was able to get it in with a little prying and jacking.
  4. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    Found something interesting on rock auto of all places in my desperate search for a replacement cv. There are heavy duty CV versions listed for a bunch of the subie cars. In the description of those it lists the stock max operating angles for the OE subaru joints- 23° for a tripod style and 30º for 6 ball style joints. The KS4 uses a tripod style. The earlier and later trucks use the 6 ball style. That angle limit can't be helping things for me. One of the seven avenues I'm pursuing to fix this is adapting an earlier 6 ball joint to my axle.

  5. Ohkei Dohkei

    Ohkei Dohkei Active Member

    Interesting. I think you will be pushing it with 27's and the old tripod joint, even if you lengthen the axles. 45 degrees would definitely help.
  6. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    After 4 or 5 days of searching I actually found aftermarket replacement axles! They are made by a company called HDK. I found them on global.rakuten.co.jp. $94+shipping. I've contacted them to see how much shipping will be.

    Here's a list of all the part numbers-
  7. Adam Wheeler

    Adam Wheeler Member

    Hmmm, all those parts numbers look to be of front cv axles only.

    Rear left would be: 28021-TA400
  8. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    Well forget that then....

    I got an email back from a seller on ebay who was selling the inner joints for the KS3. He told me that people typically modify the KS3 inner joint to accept a snap snap ring. Then use the KS3 axles on the KS4.
  9. RHamlyn

    RHamlyn New Member

    Love this post, amazing job on all the mods. I have a 1994 Sambar that i want to complete the 2" body lift on. do you happen to have any instructions/words of wisdom to help me with that?
  10. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    I'm actually working on a turn key kit. It will be bolt on except for the steering shaft that needs to be extended. It'll have every nut, bolt, spacer and bracket needed. For the steering shaft I'll provide a precut tube you slide over the cut shaft then weld.

    The body lift is the way to go imo for 2" of lift. It avoids all the alignment and cv joint issues of the suspension lift.

    I'm waiting on one part to come back from powder coat(a filler piece that goes above the engine cover) and then I'll make another thread with all the details.

    RHamlyn and Limestone like this.
  11. RHamlyn

    RHamlyn New Member

    That sounds ideal. Will you be selling them ? Im interested either way
  12. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    Some pics of the shock mods. The "ears" are pretty close but they clear. Picture makes it look like they are hitting.


    Last edited: Feb 18, 2020
  13. Kody902

    Kody902 New Member

    What kind of engine upgrades can be done to these? Mine does fine on my highway(110km max here in Nova Scotia, and it will stay between 90-120km depending on hills/wind) but a little more pickup wouldn't be cause for complaint. If it changes anything, 1991 carburated without supercharger.
  14. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    In 2009, I purchased a 2001 Sambar with a 2" lift already installed. I run it with 14" DRG DR31 S alloys and 175/70R14 Hancook Winter I-Pike mud and snow directional tires. It looks great. I printed out a kph cheat sheet and taped it to the driver's side A pillar at eye height. The alloy wheels drastically reduce the unsprung weight.

    I believe the 2" lift is the reason I keep losing CV joint boots, both inner and outer, front and rear, due to over articulation. I would not recommend a 2" lift to anyone for this reason. I believe that a 1" lift would still accommodate the 14" wheels and I might not have gone through three sets of boots, getting ready for set number four. It's rather costly doing this again and again. To add to the frustration, I only drive the truck about 1500 miles a year or less, if it is not sitting, waiting for new boots.
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020 at 7:16 AM
  15. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    I have had my supercharged 2001 Sambar up to 80 mph on the freeway without modifications. There was a little more range left, but 80 mph seemed scary fast for the platform. Blowing past large trucks and buses at 80 mph is not for the faint hearted. When one hits that bow wave off the front a semi, one realized the inherent instability of the short wheel base and narrow stance. My adventures above 70 mph were purely experimental. A one time thing. The TT2 cruises comfortably at 65 mph, with downshifts to 4th on the steeper hills in order to maintain speed.

    As for standing start acceleration for the Sambar, I'll race a VW Type 2 or Beetle any day. LOL. No one will know we are racing.
  16. Rick Melloh

    Rick Melloh Member

    Banzairx7, I had to install rear shocks immediately after purchasing my 2001 TT2. The original shocks still functioned, but the sleeves had rusted off the weldment and making a racket. The Monroe 31000 series worked, but I had to trim the top bushings' outside dimension (length?) to fit inside the brackets. It wasn't a big deal. If I recall correctly, I used my 4" grinder with a 60 grit sanding disc. The sleeves on the shocks are a close fit to the plastic shrouds on both sides. There is a little rubbing going on. Installed in 2009, they are still doing the job in 2020.
  17. banzairx7

    banzairx7 Member

    Got my CV joint fixed up. Ordered a used left side axle from japan, couldn't find a right. When it showed up it was not the tripod inner joint but a 6 ball type. Guessing it was from a later model KS4. The 6 ball type give s a bit more articulation and has a retaining ring so the joint can't pull apart. Overall probably a better setup IMO. Might explain why Subaru switched in later trucks. Swapped the left inner with some fresh Redline CV grease onto my right axle no problem. Also added a 3/16" spacer to the move the outer CV a tiny bit inboard to make up some of the length because of the lift. So far so good with this set up.

    More importantly I got to drive the truck for the first time! I had to wait almost 2 months to get the truck VIN inspected before I could register it. That happened last week and got my plates yesterday. Drove it about ten miles to go get some burgers last night. Power at lower speeds is actually pretty impressive. It's not til the aero drag starts to build above 40mph that it feels sluggish at all. Only issue I've got right now is turning at over 50mph the steering wheel starts to shake. Could be alignment since the entire suspension has been apart. Also need to check for any loose bushings, tie rods or ball joints. Everything seemed tight but I didn't do any proper checks.

    As far as the shocks go I added 18" ProComp limiting straps to my truck. Didn't want to tear up the CV from over extending it and the CV joint will actually hit the shock if you let it extend too far. I did find another Monroe shock that has a shorter extended length of 17.875" but is identical in every other way. It's Monroe part #32207. They are intended for the rear of a 1983 Honda Civic Wagon. They are also available in a few other brands from rock auto with prices running $13-$28.

    And finally added a boost gauge to the truck. It's integrated into the gauge cluster and after a lot of work came out looking almost factory. Truck runs about 8psi of boost right now.

    Limestone and Adam Wheeler like this.
  18. Adam Wheeler

    Adam Wheeler Member

    I like the work done on integrating that gauge into the cluster, looks very clean and OEM. That area of the cluster actually has a purpose now.

    In regards to the shocks that is a nice find, I haven't had an issue yet with my 31000's, but I don't take it through any terrain other than the street to make it questionable if it would extend too far. If I do decide to lift it, I'll take your word for it on the straps.

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