1999 Suzuki Carry bad performance...

With all the carb problems have you checked the plugs , for fouling,the cap and rotor for carbon traces and crusty connections? I’ve seen cracked porcelain bad plug wires , timing maybe way off. Or a combo of things . Bad gas with water in it . When you get something not running for sometime and other people try to “ fix it “ first your really behind the 8 ball . When I am “gifted” with a project I 1st listen to what happened when it started giving problems and then try to baseline the truck back to stock setup and pull out all the “ temporary/ trail “fixes and start from scratch.

 

I feel like I have a carb that is over loading itself with fuel. You can reach in and pull the carb flap up and it will rev like it suppose too.

 

Your talking about the choke flap ?

 

yes

 

Ok
Are you getting good coolant flow thru the carburetor choke , should get hot pretty quick , as it’s should always have coolant flowing thru it right off the block and internal flow from around the cly water jacket . if your not sure pull one of the lines off the choke ports on the carburetor. Start it up and see if it’s shooting a good stream of water out it . Also the choke maybe adjust incorrectly causing it stay on too much during a cold start .

 

Hi Guys,
For me Kim's problem is EXACTLY like my problem. Carburetor over flowing. As it "spits" back - this mean TOO MUCH fuel coming to the intake manifold. For some reason the carbs (even new ones) can not handle the pressure coming from the petrol pump. My pump also looked VERY weak, but still was giving TOO much fuel.
Fuel Pressure Regulator from Amazon or local shop for few bucks is the cure. Set between 2 and 2.5 PSI.
UPDATE:
I can not get Fuel Pressure Regulator (Botswana, Africa) so I put a T-piece BEFORE the carb and run a NEW hose back to the tank - just to reduce the pressure.
STARTING AND IDLING - 100% !!!
20 KM TEST DRIVE - 100% !!!
MY PROBLEM IS OVER !!!

 

Glad you got it figured out Victor, the float in your carburetor is set correctly and it’s been a bit since I’ve been in a Suzuki carburetor but was the needle and seat in good condition. Some have a rubber tip on the needle and maybe in the just the seat . Can’t remember if it’s just a polished tip and seat
the exterior style pump carry’s I’ve messed with when you cycle the key on and off A few times but not starting you will hear the pump run fast and as the level in the carb bowl rises and the float closes the needle and seat the pump slows and stops
With your situation with parts availably in your area you got to do with what’s on hand so if it’s working you can always revisit it when things get better or if you need to later down the road

 

Hi, As I stated above - it seems, that Ali Baba not with 40, but 40 thousand thieves were playing with my carb.
1 )The needle spacer on the plunger was between the spring and the clip !!! So, my needle was PERMANENTLY 30 - 40% open!I put it back where it suppose to be - on top of the clip.
2) The O-ring on the seat in the fuel camera was missing. I found one from clutch pump for Toyota Corolla matching and install it. After this I checked the level with the pump on and it was O.K.
3) The ball on top of the accelerator pump was also missing. I broke a old drilling machine rotor bearing and it fit perfectly.
The previous owner of my truck imported it from Japan himself and it had just above 150000 km on the clock. He drove it for 4500 km and gave it for service to bush-mechanic. The bush-mechanic (to make some extra bucks) told him that the carburetor also need to be serviced. The owner gave him "Go Ahead" and .... the truck never went on the road again .... It still has the tires it arrived with - 145R12LT - in good condition. Here you can buy ONLY 155R12LT - a bit bigger.
Despite the fuel problem - now solved - the truck is in excellent condition.
I AM HAPPY !!!
P.S. My in tank pump is operated by relay - itself commanded by Throttle Position Sensor. So, it works on demand. I do not have distributor.
P.S.P.S. All these problems in the end benefited .... me ! I got my truck for $700. This is what the owner asked for. I did not think twice ! Importing truck like this myself from Japan will cost me $3500 - $4500 !!!

 

!!! If your EGR valve is on wrong vacuum port, !!! or your Temperature Sensor Valve is blocked in "vacuum thru" position !!! your truck will be dyeing every time you leave the accelerator and it goes to idle !!!

 

Hi Guys,
For me Kim's problem is EXACTLY like my problem. Carburetor over flowing. As it "spits" back - this mean TOO MUCH fuel coming to the intake manifold. For some reason the carbs (even new ones) can not handle the pressure coming from the petrol pump. My pump also looked VERY weak, but still was giving TOO much fuel.
Fuel Pressure Regulator from Amazon or local shop for few bucks is the cure. Set between 2 and 2.5 PSI.
UPDATE:
I can not get Fuel Pressure Regulator (Botswana, Africa) so I put a T-piece BEFORE the carb and run a NEW hose back to the tank - just to reduce the pressure.
STARTING AND IDLING - 100% !!!
20 KM TEST DRIVE - 100% !!!
MY PROBLEM IS OVER !!!

 

Victor what carb do you have the 3+1 or the 3+2 ? And where is the Temp Sensor vale located?

 

Hi Kim,
My Zuki model (DA52T) is unique - produced for only one year - 1999-2000. My carb is 2 +2 - also unique.
After reading and reading and ... reading and reading I found that, the vacuum lines ARE ADDITION - NOT NECESSITY !!!
Difficult start with a lot of cranking , spiting back and dyeing while driving are pure signs of overflowing carb !!!
The Temperature Vacuum Valve is located on top of the thermostat. It can be with 2 or 4 ports.

 

Good job on figuring that out,

 

do you have a picture of it?

 

Where did you tie back into the tank at?

 

Hi Kim.
I shall post pictures in the next 24 hours.
But,
DON'T DO IT !!!
I am in the third world. I have to make a plan to deal with things my way. Things, which cost you 5 bucks and 5 minutes effort are Mission Impossible for me.
If you STILL decide to follow my steps - before you make permanent changes - make 100% sure it works for you !!!
Simply put a T-piece BEFORE the carb. Run the hose in 2 liter bottle. Test drive.
I had to reduce the new hose from 8 to 4.2 mm - I was getting fuel shortage above 80 km/h.
If it works - spend $5 for Fuel Pressure Regulator and set it on 2 - 2.5 PSI.
Victor's way:
There is a 10 mm hose between the front of the tank and the tank inlet. I put another T-piece on it and joined the new "return" hose there.

 

The Beast .......

 

Nice looking unit Victor , won’t see anything that new for another 4 years here in the states ( unless I want a off-road only unit )

 

Thanks Koffer,
I just install the lights on top. Two in the middle for "bush" trips (here 99.9% of the roads are gravel or sand), and two on the side - for open roads.
As I understand - you have import restrictions in USA - 25 years or older. At least you have everything you need in the shops.
I wonder way Kim does not provide FULL information about her truck ? Without it nobody can help her.

 

2020/08/17 UPDATE:
After the modifications I had to do I already put another +/- 400 km on the clock.
On open road consumption is 6,8 liter per 100 km (loaded with 8 bags of cement - 400 kg).
Town driving - 8,5 liter per 100 km.
Maximum cruising speed - 110 km/h. More than enough.
On 115 km/h it becomes unstable.
The EGR valve itself is working, but there is blockage and the exhaust gases does not come to it. It seems very common issue with F6A engines.

In the thread "Desperately need tuning help" there are pictures of carb plunger and needle. Mine look totally different. It seems the people "working" on the carb before me cut the needle. It comes out of the bottom of the plunger only 15 mm.
Can somebody, please, help with details of original needle - diameter, length ect ?

 

It's good to provide your unit, make, model etc..... in your signature, like some of us have done, it really helps us answer questions on your unit, as there are so many diff. kinds!

 

Thanks for the advise, Limestone.
I just did not know that it is under "signature". Now is done.
It seems the carburetors are different only by the vacuum ports - 3+2, 2+3. 3+1 and 2+2.
Probably the plungers and needles are the same for all models.

 

Anytime, Kim should do it too!

 

Hi Guys,
Two weeks ago the thermostat on my Zuki gave up. I took it out, but in the shops there is no replacement for it.
This brought another problem - the choke.
But I am living in a country, where the temperature in coldest time of the year is +5 to +10 degrees C.
Do I really need choke ???
I took it completely out, by-pass the water hose and block the vacuum port port on the carb.
Zuki starts perfectly and I have to keep a bit higher revs for about a minute.
If someone wants complete, working choke - I am willing to give it away. Just pay the postage.