Morning! Sorry i wasn't clearer. I'll PM you so as not to tie up this posting. The bulb I am referring to can be found at most any Wal Mart or Academy and is used to initiate the flow of fuel from the tank to an outboard. Has a built in check valve, so when you squeeze it it sucks from the tank and forces it downstream (to the motor) and the check valve keeps it from backing up to the source tank. By continuing to squeeze it you could keep enough pressure on the carb bowl to keep it full. By cutting back on the number of squeezes and squeezing just when it starts to die might answer questions as well. Doing that would eliminate everything from the fuel pump back to the tank. If that works and it runs better, then I would remake the line between the fuel pump and the carb inlet. Then move the hose and pump up to the inlet of the fuel pump. Once it is running you can let the fuel pump do the work, if indeed it works. If it quits, then the fuel pump should be looked at. Again be very careful with open lines and moving gasoline. That procedure answered a lot of questions for me. A good pump up bulb will cost in the neighborhood of $15 to $20 tho. I welcome (And won't complain) any ideas that expose a flaw in the procedure. Very possible I overlooked something. Good luck and please keep us posted.
Well - the beast is running and idling. Some good info on this forum (splauchs and others) suggested long ago that I test with a different tank and fuel lines. Fuel lines checked out fine. It would run for a while then foul out and was running WAY WAY rich; to the point that a puddle of fuel was behind muffler. Then - it occurred to me...that I put most of a can of seafoam into the 8 gallon tank with questionable gas. I emptied the tank and it was funky brown and way bad. The seafoam was what was causing the massive smoke....DUH. Put fresh gas in the tank and voila.... started and runs like a champ. It smoked for about 5 minutes. I drove it around the neighborhood and it was fine by the time I got back home. I shut it off and and it fired right up. It took a while for the idle to settle down. I can't drive it on the roads here legally.... so I can only sneak around the streets in my little neighborhood from time to time. I did that about 5 times and was able to get the idle set yesterday. I'll try it again several times this week and maybe get it to our property for a real test next weekend. I still have a few things to do this week. The form-a-gasket I put behind the left side rear brake hub is leaking rear end grease. I'll try to jack it up enough on that side to keep from losing the axle oil. The sealant between those 2 surfaces still confuses me. Should there be an axle seal that keeps the rear end oil in? --- Also - - and this one worries me - - when driving and I let off the gas, there is a clanking sound form the rear of the truck. I can't drive and troubleshoot - so I'll have to jack it up and see what I can find. Any thoughts? thanks
Hello JWicker! Congratulations on that. Nice seeing progress. Again, I am no mechanic. But an easy first thing to check is your U-joints. Only because I've seen (And heard ) that same thing in the past on older vehicles I've owned. And I would suspect that if your truck has ever been lifted that it would be possible to strain and bind those things. Hopefully it is that and not an issue in a gearbox. I dread the thought of a problem internally. I finally got my new carb in and installed. You obviously don;t need one but if you ever do I highly recommend talking to Don at Yokohama. (No, this is not a paid endorsement ) My old one had serious issues that no matter how hard I hoped and prayed, they wouldn;t fix themselves. While I won;t go as far as to say that it is running perfectly, at least I can begin looking at other things. This annoying miss gets to me. But anyway, let us know what you find and good luck.
I got my replacement carb from Don at Yokohama as well. I have a couple of U Joints on the way.,... HOPING that's the issue. Time will tell.
Well - it's been a very UNprodutive time for the HiJet. I AM STILL WAITING on a rear axle seal from Mike at SuperMiniTrucks. I've been waiting for that thing for ~8 weeks, I think. I haven't put the U-joints in either, as I had planned to do it all at the same time. Needless to say, the HiJet hasn;t moved. Anyone know what is involved to replace the rear axle seal? Is it inboard nearer the hoghead or out board by bearings? I swapped entire rear ends so i didn;t see a seal. Frustrated. jw
Wish I could help, never done it. Don't doubt that I will eventually have to do mine too. Please post what you find, preferably with pics. My 93 Hijet is finally in the shop. (Just got the trailer last weekend to haul it back and forth to camp, but unfortunately that won;t happen yet). It's running decent, but there are still issues. Am I wrong to think that it should idle and run better than my single cylinder Honda 4 wheeler? Or my worthless Craftsman lawn tractor? Hoping they don't find that I have to go internal to the engine like valves or rings. It does smoke some after sitting up. Whatever, it is getting close to hunting season preparation and I want it running right. So, good luck with your seal and u-joints. As I recall you've been fighting issues since day 1. Hope it all comes together soon for you.
I'm sure the seal is out at the end and you may have to remove the brake backing plate to access it.I haven't had any luck getting seals from the vendors or most big bearing and seal places but I found a local to me fellow that can duplicate most anything if you have numbers or good dimensions. It is CBR Bearing & seal 401 Olive Hill Way Fallbrook,Ca 92028 phone 760 731 7207. He's a real nice guy and fixed me up with a tranny output seal for $4 after I wasted over $40 with vendors and seal stores for the wrong thing.
