I purchased (traded really) a 1994 (so I"m told) Honda Acty. The truck is in decent condition given the fact that it's been used on a farm for a few years after being imported from a Japanese logging company. The truck currently needs a front right axle as the original is broken however my bigger issue is that it currently doesn't run. I have yet to check for spark, but I've noticed when I turn the key to the "RUN" position I cannot hear the fuel pump turning on. I removed the plugs after turning the engine over for a few seconds and I didn't smell or see any fuel on the plugs. I understand the carb could be plugged, but the pump should still activate no? I read somewhere online that the Ignition Control Mod can have this problem on the truck?? The issue right now is that my funds are limited so I cannot buy multiple parts in hopes to fix it. I cannot afford a $200 pump, so if it is that the truck will likely sit all winter. I appreciate any help you guys can give me. I am going to make this truck a mean machine and currently know nothing about it so expect to hear lots from me asking questions.
Well I got the truck running. Turns out the Alternator is seized so the engine wasn't turning over fast enough to get fuel or spark. Truck ran pretty good at first but not runs like it wants to die at idle. It hasn't died but it sounds like it would. I am going to get one of the tune up kits and see if that improves anything.
Might need a choke adjustment to get it to run right at idle or could be stopped up coolant to the choke preventing it from opening. If the choke is opening properly, might need to clean the carb so you can get a good idle adjustment. Fred
How exactly do I adjust the choke? A linkage on the side going from the main throttle arm (where cable connects) was disconnected at first but I reconnected it the other day. There is another linkage too in the same area (left side of truck) that has two linkage holes, but it isn't connected to anything. I have started and driven the truck a few times now and it is idling worse every single time. Second to last time I started it, it smoked a little at first, didn't look like oil burning, but possibly gas or water (hopefully no blown head gasket), after a few seconds it stopped and hasn't done it again. It might have something to do with the coolant I suppose, my temp gauge doesn't move but I just assumed it was the sending unit. I guess I should also add that the truck runs great while driving around, just the idle is crap. Having worked with small engines before I know that is generally a carb problem. I'm just happy the truck started and ran at all, now just to knock out some key maintenance concerns before the quickly approaching winter arrives here in Texas.
I have a laundry list of this thus far, notice anything else I need to do? I also plan on replacing the Timing belt after winter is over, is that an extensive job? and does the engine have to be dropped? New Alternator Ignition Control Module (cover broke off of mine) Tune up Kit (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) Fuel filter New CV axle to replace broken one (existing one is starting to click too) Flush coolant and replace, replace coolant overflow tank Oil Change, diff fluid change, transmission fluid change New thermostat, possibly temp sending unit Fix lights Another question as well, on my 94 there is a cap that says oil something behind my rear left tire, is that the engine oil fill tube?
I would add a carb kit to your list to go along with the tune-up and a very thorough inspection of all the vacuum lines as they do get brittle and crack, sometimes in an area where it can't be seen and can cause some bad running problems too. Clicking CV Joint indicates upcoming trouble. If the Ignition Module is working, would it be possible to seal it up with RTV rather than the expense of a new one? Could you possibly install new bearings rather than replace the whole Alternator? As to your question about the oil cap thing, I am not familiar with your particular vehicle, just basing my posts on general knowledge of what I have seen and been involved with over the years. Fred
How much do carb rebuild kits generally run? My carb looked great inside by there may be underlying issues. I know the gas was good also but just to make sure I drained it all tonight and am going to fill it with fresh tomorrow. I was going to try the RTV approach anyways just to see if it will work. I planned on checking and likely replacing all vacuum lines anyways. I know, clicking CV joints isn't good, I think they were both so worn because the previous owner but a 3-4" lift on the front. I thought about the alternator bearings too but the bolts were so rusty most of them just broke off inside the aluminum, but I see that a Kubota alternator will fit and is only around $80. Really as of now I can't do much anyways aside from starting the truck for a few seconds to diagnose problems. I need to flush the coolant system as I'm not sure how old it is or how much is really in it anyways. BUT before I can do that I have to replace the coolant overflow as it has a huge hole in the bottom.
I understand that the choke is opened in accordance with the water circulating through the actuator so you might do whatever you can to make sure you have an open path for the coolant to & from the carb. Mine is EFI, so I am not familiar with what you have. Check all the other sections of this forum as I do remember there have been some threads concerning carb repair & adjustments in different places, some with pics too. Fred
Thank you, I am very new to all of this, the truck and the forum likewise. I have narrowed it down and I do not any further beleive it to be a choke problem, even when I hold the choke open by hand the truck runs horrible. A neighbor seems to think it is ignition related, so I will eventually get plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But really as I said before I drive it I have to do a lot of other maintenance, so it will sit all winter long I'm guessing. Fred[/QUOTE]
