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1990 Suzuki Carry carb issues...

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by dannydanctd, Aug 29, 2012.

  1. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Hello to all you guys, first time post but I've read a solid 30+ Carry threads here.
    Thanks to all who post great info.
    I meticulously cleaned the OEM carb, all passages and jets are clear and free. . I've read thru(numerous times) Don's carb tuning as well as the other major carb threads for the Carry forums and have tried to use as much info as possible. I'm also open to more tuning suggestions and I'm glad to take pictures as well. Thanks for your time.

    Dan
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  2. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    EL will pull a 5th wheel..or climb a rock wall..

    The problem with only having two posts and no pics, is that there are too many holes in your information. Like, do you have a stock air box, filter, and all the stock plumbing through the cat?

    Start by backing off the timing down to 6 BTDC,
    Order a new set of plug wires,
    Pull the plugs and gap them below 30,
    Open the enrichment to 3 1/2 out,

    You either have too much air going in the front side, or too much back pressure on the back side, or the burn is not happening at the right time, or an incomplete or an intermittent ignition source.

    There's some stuff to do, and some to think about...
     
  3. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Hey Spaner,

    Thanks very much for the reply. the airbox appears stock, I replaced the old filter with Fram Ca568 and it seems to fit. As far as I can tell this unit has no converter, just exhuast manifold back to stock muffler and it seems to flow pretty well. I think it is actually an 89 model after some more research, it has points and condenser which appear to have been changed sometime recently. I looked for specs for point gap on this model but had a hard time finding any info. I'll change the timing and adjust mixture screw this evening and post my results. I looked for plug wire cross over but didn't have much luck, do you know of any that cross? Thanks
     
  4. spaner

    spaner Active Member

  5. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    FYI. Ive rebuilt a few carbs so far and its seems to me u have a 50-50 chance of getting it right. A few have worked great after the rebuild and a few still had the boooog. I decided to cut my losses and for now on I send them to Chad Hite(King Cobra Parts) and let him rebuild them. They look and are as good as a new one.
     
  6. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Quick update...

    Spaner, set the timing at 6 degrees and still no change, same with mixture adjustment, I do have some plug wires, cap, rotor and points on the way... I'm thinking if valve timing was off, it wouldn't start, idle and run as well as it does when its sitting still. Vacuum advance is working fine too... I'll wait out the new tune up parts and see if they make a difference... I may pull the exhaust after the header back and see if I have sufficient flow there. Thanks again

    Trax,

    Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I didn't rebuild the carb, simply did a super cleaning and reused old parts...pulled it completely apart and made sure all orifices and passageways, jets, etc were clear with carb cleaner and compressed air, no holes in the float, accelerator pump diaphragms or slide diaphragm, needle valve seats nicely and works as it should..... Only issue I saw was a clogged fuel return, which I cleared out... I had no reference for float height specs, but this one wasn't too low or high... I didn't really see anything that made me think it needed a rebuild kit, and as I said I've rebuilt/cleaned a boatload of carbs. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  7. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    As you know, there's no magic bullet. Right now, my money's on the wires, but it could be just a whole pile of possibilities.
    Check the EGR...do you have one? I don't know that year/model all that well, but mine is similar.

    Also, to eliminate the vacuum issue completely, pull the feeds off the top of the manifold and plug the ports for a test pull. Just two on mine.

    Don't forget the PCV valve...they almost never wear out, but the connecting hoses crack all the time and it is one of the possibilities that would produce those symptoms.
     
  8. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Ok, another update...

    Pulled carb again, super cleaned everything once more and installed new accelerator pump diaphragm (even though the old one was fine, I had one in a carb kit I got for f6a that fit perfect. Changed plugs (again) wires, cap and rotor button. Pulled exhaust all the way from end of exhaust manifold back to make sure flow was adequate. None of these things made any changes. I'm pretty confident my carb settings and vacuum routings are correct as per "carb tuning techniques" and "desperately need tuning help" threads. Choke comes on and off just fine too. I've also replaced almost all the old vacuum lines around the engine bay and carb in an attempt to eliminate leaky old hoses.

    No PCV valve, just a straight run of hose from the valve cover to the airbox, basically a breather to reroute to the airbox. Looks factory, not a cobble job. No catalytic converter, just stock exhaust manifold back to stock muffler. I disconnected vacuum ports as well with no change. EGR is functioning fine, I can apply vacuum to it and it will stall the engine. No charcoal canister either. Almost everything appears stock.


    I've yet to check compression or valve clearance. Although again, I don't think it would start so easily if compression was low. It doesn't burn or leak oil either.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  9. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Checked compression...

    #1 - 160
    #2 - 115
    #3 - 160

    I added oil to #2 to see if the number would come up but it didn't.

    This makes me want to check valve clearance next. I've found f6a specs but cannot locate specs for f5b 12 valve engine. Wonder if it is the same specs as f5a?
    Any help would be appreciated, I'm trying to get as much done while the weather is still good...
     
  10. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    #1 and #2 intake valves were tight (especially #2). Adjusted valves to .006 and compression changed to

    #1 - 170
    #2 - 161
    #3 - 160
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  11. packrat

    packrat Member

    Doesn't sound like transmission issues, maybe there's vacuum leaks, or possibly the timing belt is off a tooth, or timing is off.
     
  12. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Hey packrat,

    Thanks for the suggestions, trying to isolate any vacuum leaks (there are none) in fact I've replaced almost all the vacuum lines as well.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013
  13. 1bdbird

    1bdbird New Member

    any update on it? i have a db41t also
     
  14. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    This must be driving you bonkers...I love this kind of stuff...:)
    Two statements catch my attention.
    1) after market fuel pump
    2) carb fuel return "was blocked"

    To eliminate that whole section,
    Pull fuse for the pump, or just disconnect,
    Set an outboard fuel tank in the bed and connect the line to the carb fuel-in,
    Clean the plugs first,
    Couple pumps on the can's bulb, take it for a ride,

    This will eliminate the entire fuel question, pump, tank, lines, return and feed, fuel filters, etc.


    ...:pop:
     
  15. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Hey Spaner,

    It most certainly is... I haven't had desire to mess with it much lately, but I will start on it again soon. I've got adequate flow to carb and return as well. Changed the plugs (with new NGK) several times as well...

    However, I'll throw another set of plugs in and use a separate fuel tank, thanks for some more ideas. I'll get this sucker licked at some point. Will keep you guys posted.
     
  16. 1bdbird

    1bdbird New Member

    I understand, and I'll def keep you in mind, thanks
     
  17. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Just wanted to update this in the hopes it can help others along the way... The weather was nice this weekend for the first time in a while so I spent some much needed time getting back to dealing with the running issues.. I bypassed the pump and ran a gravity fed gas can to the carb.... and it ran like a little champ! Spaner, you were on to something there!

    Hooked up fuel pump again and it ran terrible again... scratch head, drink beer, rethink....

    Hmm...., fuel return wasn't blocked, hooked up fuel pump again, and set pressure regulator to 4psi and checked fuel flow into clear container. All of a sudden, it hit me.... the fuel was bad! The fuel that came out into the jug, was old. Even though I had added fresh gas when I got the truck, I never checked what was in the tank.

    I dropped the tank, drained fuel, added fresh gas, and hooked everything back up. Bam! She runs like a little top, drove it around for a good 30 minutes and was completely satisfied.

    It turns out I over thought everything. I went through every issue, nit picking it all.... compression, valve clearance, numerous carb cleans, vacuum leaks, theories, etc. Bad gas was the culprit. I should have started with the simplest issue first.... Anyway, thanks to all those that have posted ideas and solutions.
     
  18. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    Ha, ha...

    There you go man....:cool:

    BTW. I REALLY liked your price on the SC DD51t alternator; just with the shipping, duty...to Canada...

    Not so good, but for southern US guys...probly pretty dam good.

    Keep it up, and see what you can do, for us poor, poor, guys here...he, he...:p
     
  19. spaner

    spaner Active Member

    ADDED,
    That's how I trouble shoot shite, everyday. Start by eliminating a whole "system".
    Fuel,
    Gas and feed...
    Just put a tank on the roof, with gas in it that you picked up today. You just bypassed everything...:sly:

    Is it the same? Then that's not it...
    Is it better?
    Then the problem is there; and now you're on to something.

    Break it down;
    Fuel?
    Pump?
    Lines?
    Filter?
    Carb?

    BUT if not...then that's a whole bunch of stuff that you don't need to mess with...:pop:

    Ignition coil?

    Won't start, but cranks?

    As simple as a fuse in the box...:cool:

    Glad that you got it; now have some fun with that beast before you sell it...;)
     
  20. dannydanctd

    dannydanctd New Member

    Thank you! I could get the alternator to you for less, Ebay automatically calculates their own international shipping price... I can't even see what it shows for shipping to other countries. I know, poor is exactly right...


     

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