Hello all, I have a '90 S83P Hijet and I'm having some issues. It does not want to idle! I have put new plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor. I do not notice a difference. I opened one part of the carb and it seems to look very clean. I have not done anything with it other than putting some CRC carb clean in it and blowing with an air compressor. I have checked the timing and it seems to all be good. I do not want to get into the vacuum lines if I do not have to. I have sprayed some carb clean to see if I find any leaks, but did not have any luck. If anyone can help me, I would really appreciate it. Feel free to email me at yjesri@gmail.com or text me at 316-686-1593 got the quickest response.
Mini, I was wondering what carb. is on yours? Original, or replacement? I am a big fan of sea foam added to the fuel, and run that through, and see if it makes a diff. before trying anything drastic! There have been several others who have had similar carb. issues, search the forum, hopefully you will find the info needed! Good Luck! Limestone
It is the original carb. I have added sea foam to it already, and ran about 3/4 or more of tank through. I have also tried the "old man's carb clean" where rev it up high and choke it with your hand. It does not seem to be any better. I was wanting to get over it and replace all the lines today if I could and had the time. I will keep everyone posted tho. It is a slim chance I will, but if I do how much hose do I need? 15ft? Thank you for the ideas Thank you all for the help
There is some good info on this page of the G&R Imports site (including a carb doc): https://www.grimports.com/maintenance-tips PS: I bought 10ft of silicone vac line for my S83P and have used almost all of it.
Mini, I was wondering if your carb has ever been rebuilt, or original parts. Carb cleaner will deteriorate the seals on the jets, etc.! Great tip JMM! Good Luck, Limestone
@JMM , I will do some reading on there site and see if I can get it fixed. Thank you for the tip. It will help a lot. @Limestone , I have only had my truck since the first of December last year, so I do not know much history other that it sat for around 7 years. I would assume it is all original. The guy I got my three trucks from bought 5 from a dealer that used to be in Oklahoma. This one sat from around 2012? till December 2019. Thank you for your help as well. I appreciate it very much. I will keep everyone up to date.
https://partsfan.com/daihatsu/jp/bf...db6e/eeb65977904b4fe89f84950cd8117cbd/1/2103/ not sure if this matches your build but you can get all the parts for the 83 carbs
Mini, Just more FYI. My 89 hijet sat for a long time also. I completely went through the whole fuel system. dropping the tank and cleaning is easy. I wound up replacing the carb. With the aftermarket manual choke style! Mainly, because just after I rebuilt it, for $150.00 (carb. kit), the 2 wire solenoid quit, and I couldn't find another one! Replacing anything I could that was in reference the the fuel system, mainly because it was original or old. Fuel pump, lines, filter, carb. etc. !!! Good Luck! Limestone
Can you point me to the carb you used and did it work as it should or was there alot of needed adapting....Thanx
G.E., I used the after market carb., with the manual choke! Eliminating, the two solenoids, and Eliminating the coolant, controlled choke, hose, I just, looped that back to the head, keeping the coolant circulating! It bolted right up, and was the easiest way to go. There's other options, also! Depends what your wanting! There's a lot of carb. threads on the forum, explaining what others have done! I thought about a Mikuni carb. ! Good Luck! LIMESTONE
Can you tell me where you bought your carb and if it was the $80.00 type on ebay or the $ 200.00 from another site. Thank you again
G.E., The after market Carb. that is being sold and advertised for our Daihatsu Hijet Mini trucks are all the same. They're made overseas and the ones you are seeing here are bought by hustlers trying to make a buck! There's no magic in these Carbs. no matter what the price! I've stated before that there's more than one way to go with these darn things. I chose the least evasive, for me, due to time restraints, and a full plate schedule like most. I stated before that I am not a big fan of these carbs., be it original or the aftermarket ones that were using. I love the versatility of these neat little units, and mine has earned it's keep if you will! It's not a garage QUEEN! Mine is a work horse that I enjoy and take care of! Eventually down the road, I might make some changes, but right now, I'm sticking with the hand I'm dealt! There are so many options, too many to go into, here and now! In re reading the post; The aftermarket carb., bolts right up! (Least evasive)! By using the aftermarket carb., your eliminating the temperature controlled choke! Ther fore needing a manual choke cable run to your cab. So you have to re route the coolant fluid line by looping it around back to the head, to re circulate your coolant fluid! I didn't see where you tried to re build your carb. with a re built kit! Eliminating the need for a manual choke! That was my first choice, and after I did that, one of the solenoids, started leaking, and you can't find a re placement for it! So I had to go with the after market model! Go into your profile, and click on signature, and put in everything, all the info on your mini truck that you can, it will help us help you to identify what you have, so we can advise and help you with your situation! If you look at the bottom of our post's you can see examples! Make, year, model, engine,etc... as much as you know!!!Don't get deterred, you'll get it. Is this an everyday driver? How do you plan on using it? How long have you had it? What's the history of it? Do you know? What made you go with this unit? I'll try to help as much as I can. Another option is the Mikuni motorcycle carb. that will work pretty good on these things! There's several posts on the forum about them! Pretty sure it's the 32mm flat slide carb. the guy's were using! You need the manifold adapter to bolt it up, not a biggie! Good Luck! Limestone
vacuum leaks are 85% of carb and idling problems, use a vacuum gauge or carb cleaner, carb cleaner will send the engine to high idle if you have a vacuum leak, make sure the vacuum port in the air cleaner canister is working properly, also check that your vacuum advance hose isn’t cracked coming off the distributor to the vacuum manifold tree. The vacuum manifold tree is brass on the bottom to go in to the block and plastic on top. Plastic wears out with time and will break or leak, which causes a vacuum leak. Some manifold vacuum trees are 3 or 4 port, make sure to replace it with a new one. When I buy parts I buy 3 at a time that way I have them on hand or in case they can’t get them any more. The vacuum manifold tree is located behind the carb. If you looking at the carb from the right side of the bed, it will be to your 1 O’clock tucked down inside. Remember to use a marker or different colored tape to mark the vacuum lines so you know where everything goes back too! Good luck!’
@ERINSON DURAN Great video, if I didn’t already have a regulator I was going to use the same method with the pilot in the supply line. The only concern for me is high load conditions like steep extended grades. I feel the main could pull fuel from bowl faster than it can replenish. The wix filter is supposed to have the return up at 12 o’clock so vapor doesn’t get trapped but it’s likely not an issue in this application. What cc is your engine? I settled on 42/150 for my jetting on a 660cc, good to see we are in same ballpark.
For me is working perfectly, we don't have high grades here in Florida but with the jets i put in it I'm not having problems (pilot 155 and idle 40)
I was going to say not really an issue for us flatlanders (Kansas for me) but something to note for those it may affect.
E. Duran put up a very informative you tube video on the Mini Truck replacement Carb. This Helps to Eliminate the troublesome Vac lines also. Limestone
