So today I got up and decided to start my bumper build. I have been running without tail lights for a while as this is a deer lease vehicle, so instead replacing them I have decided to upgrade. Started with some L brackets. Cut some recess to get to the bolt holes on the drop hanger bracket. Took some 6x2 channel and mocked it up Took a torch and cut the holes for a receiver, 4" tail lights and two back up lights Tomorrow I will clean up some of the welds and prep for paint. LWR2
looks pretty awesome, if you dont mind, please take and post pics of where you welded your L brackets. I want to see how people are attaching them to the truck. thanks
Watch your L brackets, if you ever want or need to remove the truck bed, you may not have access to the bolts. You may be good to go on an older Carry but 1999 or newer, there would be no access. dan @ woodysminitrucks.com
Finally got a chance to finish the bumper. Here is a pic of the mounting brackets. Here she is painted and bolted up Got the wiring completed. I had to order a 3 to 2 converter with a little diagram from Spaner and a test light everything went together quickly. My plan is to plasti dip the wires tomorrow so that no moisture gets to my soldering. If anyone has any questions let me know I would be happy to answer. Thanks LWR2
That looks really awesome. Would you mind taking a few pics of where it mounts to the truck. I want to see exactly where you bolted it and to what. I want to build a rear bumper for mine but not sure where to mount it to the frame. I want something heavy to put weight on the rear end for traction. Thanks in advance.
There are end cap types of things that hang down off the ends of the frame rails. I'm not sure how big the bolts are originally but when I removed the bumper that came with my truck they looked like 5/16 lol. For extra support I ran a brace up to the frame tube crossbrace. You can see the open ends if you look under the rear of the bed. Awesome looking bumper by the way.
You are correct. That is the Spring Perch that the hangers attach too. I used those two holes with 4" grade 8 bolts with a backing plate of 11ga flat bar and a 11ga flat bar to connect to the Frame rails running horizontal. I actually covered the frame tube holes with this horizontal brace.Total weight was about 70 lbs. I will get pictures of the mounting tomorrow as I am traveling for the next few days.
Here is a side pic. Minus the two bolts that go through the frame. I will get that done tomorrow evening. Thanks. LWR2
As I did not have the taillights any longer due to plastic fell apart. I just cut the bottom of the light enclosure out to allow for the "L" bracket to meat the frame. LWR2
Got the wiring completed. I had to order a 3 to 2 converter with a little diagram from Spaner and a test light everything went together quickly. My plan is to plasti dip the wires tomorrow so that no moisture gets to my soldering. If anyone has any questions let me know I would be happy to answer. Thanks LWR2[/QUOTE] Tell me more about this converter. I want to put LED lights in my truck, but have found that the brake and tail are on the same bulb unlike american vehicles where the brake and turn are together. I have tried hooking it up every way it can be done. Without adding a seperate light for the turn I cannot make it work. I have purchased a brake/turn/ tail LED light that fits almost perfect in the stock hole. I would really like to make it work.
So is the bed lifted that 1/4" for the angle to go under it and sandwich the bumper mount down with the bed mount?
Tell me more about this converter. I want to put LED lights in my truck, but have found that the brake and tail are on the same bulb unlike american vehicles where the brake and turn are together. I have tried hooking it up every way it can be done. Without adding a seperate light for the turn I cannot make it work. I have purchased a brake/turn/ tail LED light that fits almost perfect in the stock hole. I would really like to make it work.[/QUOTE] NAPA, Autozone, OReilly's, Most any parts storeshould have the converter. It is normally used between pulling vehicle & trailer to change the light scheme. Seems as I remember it being in the trailer wiring area. Fred
Orielly's has the converter by itself for about $20 bucks! The running lights, turn signals, brake light and ground all come in and then the brake/turn come out together!
I now see that it is a flat plate on the side to bolt threw the existing frame! Would it be any stronger if in deed it were an angle and went on top of the frame and did have the bed mount hold it down as well as the bolts going threw the frame?
Noob here, wondering if this setup could work on a dump bed? I just acquired my first hijet S80LP and it is rusting apart with no rear bumper, frame is good but the body will require some work to be nice again. Thanks in advance!
