I've got a 1994 HiJet, (I think there are pictures of it on here somewhere), anyway, I bought a set of Mattracks to go on to help with collecting maple sap in the mess WI becomes in the spring. Does anyone have a set of Mattracks on there HiJet that would be willing to post some pics of the anti-rotation bracketry that they came up with? Thanks very much, Tony
Hey musicman- I just bought a set of mattracks for m- how did your install go? can you post some close up images of how the control arm is attached? Minimurph
94 HiJet to Mattracks Bracketry Here are some pictures of the custom brackets I designed and had laser cut.
wow- really impressive! You cut them out flat and then had them bent? You should market those through Mattracks. Kevin
I got a used set of the "original" Mattracks from a friend who had them on a Grizzly. They are the pre-UTV style but I've had 1000lbs of sap on the back of the truck during sugar season and it handled it just fine. I got them for a steal bud did have to replace all the bearings, they were SHOT. I cross drilled the shafts, tapped one end for grease zerts, pulled the inside seals off the bearings and I can now grease the bearings. WAY better than original.
mattracks XT UR Hi Bob- Just unloaded my tracks tonight- I found a sweet deal on the XT UR model- right next to me in AZ. $200 for shipping, $2,500 for the tracks. They have the bottom spring and rated to 3,500 lbs http://www.mattracks.com/models/litefoot/xt/xtur/ The tread has full depth lugs and the bearings all feel tight. Real happy with this deal, but I've been watching for about 3 years and this is the best I found. Kevin
Thanks guys - great info. Now I know what to look for and also what to look out for. Cheers Bob Jonah
Hi Just wondering how much lift was required in order to obtain adequate clearances. I have a set of commander tracks ready to go on a 92 Hi jet.
I've got 2" of lift in the front, I did block down the differential and modified my lower control arms to keep some good geometry on the axles, etc. about 3" in the back which is a combination of shackles, add a leaf, and wedges to improve the drive shaft geometry.
Which I did not do and therefor only got 3 years out of my front CVs. I did a lot of reading up, thought 2" was a safe lift without geometry mods- where 3" was asking for trouble. Trouble found me anyway.
hey music can you pm me i have a set of the same tracks and would like to be able to grease them too. my bearings are still good and i want to keep them like that. pls pm me your contact info. thanks Steve
One huge note about tracks on mini's, well anything for that matter. TRUE 4x4 is a MUST if you are really going to test your vehicle. That is, dif-lok in the back AND front. I have super dif lock on my '94 in the rear, the front is an open differential and it kicks my butt every time I really try to get somewhere in the snow. When the non-powered track is, well, non-powered, it acts like a huge anchor. Still trying to formulate my plan to either weld up the front end or use a www.phantomgrip.com in the front, or, make my own. Just need to find a 2-3 week window where I don't need my truck that it can sit on the car lift. Sadly I did not buy a front limited slip from the guy on here that made them for a couple years. Anyone know why he quit making them? Anyone got his design? Is it patented?
Hey ssmusicman, It was a very simple system, and provided some compensation through restriction of differential rotation (split-axle speed), via surface friction (springs) of the drive sprockets, (resulting in..restriction of rotation of the spiders), but only in the 2-spider, NOT the 4-spider setup in the front diff. A 4-spider setup in the front diff, like I have, was not even possible; for the small amount of torque differential that it provided. Sand-Rail Turning-Brake. That's the solution here. Forget the Lincoln-locker...It'll give you nothing but headaches in the front. I've had the turning brake for a while, and it works like a dream. The secret to the system, for the track application, is to consider the pressure equalization portion of the installation. With a brake line 1-IN, and 2-out (Fronts) application setup that I currently have, the pressure applied to the front caliper (Left/Right) (via hand lever) is "manual" pressure; like the manual brakes of old. No boost. This is usually fine for a 20" diameter tire, but any application of the brake pedal will not only introduce "equalization" to the fronts BUT also, under "brake-boost" will force the turning brake lever back to the neutral position (boosted-equalizing-pressure) (you can't "hold" that via the hand lever, too strong). The system then produces boosted-brake-pressure, equally, to both of the front calipers. For a track install and consideration, starting from scratch, what you want is the 2-IN, 2-OUT brake line turning-brake for the fronts for low-speed, full control of left or right track rotation. With one spinning, you can brake it (restrict its rotation), and the other side will "torque" out of the hole. "CNC" offers a 2-IN/2-OUT turning-brake for just this kind of application. With it installed, you can then "pre-load" the caliper (left/right), via the hand-lever, and THEN apply boosted brake pressure via the pedal. One side will have full brake restriction, the other 3, minor, or none (preload-500PSI LEFT). Forced rotation, enough to stall the engine under traction...torque. For me, and my 1-IN/2-OUT turning brake, I'll be looking at a "line lock"; one for each caliper. when I do need the "boosted brake pressure" application to left or right, you then just lock out the "dead side" (no brake pressure to here) and feather boosted brake pressure to the "spin side" (stop the spin); via the brake pedal boosted pressure. So, for mid to high speed, the manual lever works fine; great, in fact. For slow, or stopped, it's OK for a small tire but for a 24" mudder, or a track you'll need the "boosted" brake pressure on the rotor to get the track to stop spinning. Hope that's helpful for everybody. Forget the Lincoln, forget the lunch box lockers...NOT in the front. Nothing but a headache. Even just climbing sand hills. I don't even think about the application. I just "pump" the sand rail turning brake...LEFT-RIGHT, LEFT-RIGHT, LEFT-RIGHT... and up the hill it goes... For the tracks, brake the side that spins, the other will torque out of the hole... Here's a video depiction of the phenomenon, and the turning brake solution, with the 24" mudders... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxxcCF8bWh8
Just a note of caution when using a pressure washer. If the bearing face is exposed you will likely put water directly into the bearing which will guarantee failure in the not to distant future. This is one time when a little bit of grunge is better than clean and shiny. Vern
Had the MINI out today in about 2' of snow. Went awesome on the flat but up the hills had to work at it a bit.
Looks like fun, I just got my Xgens today, so new, the man. stickers were still on the track rubbers. What a deal, no not stolen, got full install manuals and factory tools. Full mounting kit too. Wish I had the time to work on the damd thing...
