I need help! My 2002 S210 Hijet is giving me some problems. The little guy all of a sudden began starting hard and running rough. You can feather the throttle and get it cleaned out and it will idle and seem to run fine. As soon as you get on the gas again, it starts popping and cutting out like it's missing real bad. I thought I had some bad fuel so I changed the plugs (which were pretty fouled), and drained the tank. I filled it up with some good fuel and some injector cleaner and ran it for awhile. It is dramatically better, but still falls on it's face and starts popping and missing when you get on the throttle. It idles nice and smooth and revs up nice once you get past the popping and missing part. I did remove the air filter and found half of it eaten by a mouse so I removed the air box clear to the throttle body and cleaned it all out. Soaked the throttle body with some carb cleaner and made sure there was nothing stuck in there. I also pulled the exhaust off the manifold to verify that I didn't have a plugged up converter. At this point I am suspecting the fuel pump in the tank, or the computer. I can't find a fuel filter on this thing anywhere, so it either doesn't have one, or it's up under the tank where no idiot would put one. Can anyone give me some suggestions, or other things to check? Thanks, Jeff.
I believe that you are correct that there is, surprisingly, no fuel filter. I seem to recall that one of the other S210 owners installed an inline filter. It's on my To Do list. There may be other Kei trucks like this to. How are the plug wires? I had a similar sounding situation on my older VW and it turned out to be a single plug wire that was starting to break down. If you don't get a resolution through the forum, you may want to try contacting some of the vendors. Terry at TraxandHorns is great.
No plugs wires on this one. It has the coil packs that sits right on top of the plugs. I pulled them out and used a spark tester on each one. They have plenty of spark when cranking anyway. I really suspect the fuel pump, but when I remove the inlet hose to the fuel rail, and hit the key, it pumps plenty of gas. Just not sure how it's pumping up to pressure when needed. Getting frustrated!
The fuel filter and the fuel pump are built in the same unit and are both located inside of the fuel tank. I had the same problem and the fuel pump and or filter are both in stock at G&R Imports. That is where I got mine from. If you do add an inline fuel filter, be aware that it will be under a constant 30+ lbs of pressure at all times when it is running. A plastic see-thru one won't hold up to that pressure. I did add a metal one to my truck. I found that the best place to place it was behind and forward of the battery, where the original metal line changes to rubber. This is a easy place to get to.
See if you can narrow it down to a particular cylinder by disconnecting a injector/coil pack harness one at a time. It will run like crap on 2 cylinders but you may find little to no difference with one particular cylinder disconnected and/or it may not run with others disconnected. Its a shot in the dark but it sounds like it could be a coil pack going bad or a crank position sensor. Is the check engine light on? -Greg
No check engine light, and I tried to isolate a cylinder, but can't hardly keep it running with one disconnected. It runs smooth so I don't suspect a bad coil pack. I pulled the tank tonight and the fuel pump sock seemed to have some really fine sand in it. I pulled it off and the rubber grommet on the bottom of the actual pump seems to be swelled like it got some kind of foreign substance on it. I am going to take a stab at it and put in a new fuel pump and sock. I hope that fixes it. I was searching for a pump online, but can't seem to find an exact fit. Can't find a part number on the darn thing either. Guess I will call G&R tomorrow and see what the damage will be on a new one.
Trax and horns posted a direct replacement from a Toyota car. I'm on my phone and can't find it right now. If I find it I will post it
Well, after all this time and still can't seem to get my truck to run right. I lived with it for a while, but can't even get the thing on and off the trailer anymore. Does anyone know if I can plug a scanner into this thing and verify if the Throttle Position Sensor is reading correct, or the Engine Temp Sensor? I'm going to remove the throttle body next week and check it all out. I am also curious if I have a bad ECM, but I hate to start throwing parts at it without some indication of what is wrong.
Yes your S210 should have a OBD2 port on it, So just plug your live data scanner into it and check the sensor readings. Also I have complete test data for all the sensors on these models in english - but its only a paper manual at the moment (genuine Daihatsu though) If you want test data, and I don't reply here, my username is HighlyJetted on the http://hijet.findtalk.biz/ UK forum. Good luck, I'm sure you can get it running perfect, and from your description it sounds like a sensor or other small item at fault or not setup right.
Sounds like the issue I had on my 2001, it would idle fine, cut out and die with any acceleration.. Well I have a UPDATE on my 2001 Hijet at months and months of work.. I did the following, replaced both sensors (Throttle Body & Fuel Pressure Senor) NO HELP.. I sent the injectors off to have them rebuilt. 2 NEW Fuel Pumps, 1 was a Toyota Corolla pump from AutoZone the other was a original OEM fuel pump replacement from G&R. NO HELP.. The guy I ended up taking it to messed and messed and messed with it, NO HELP.. Finally he called the guy's at G&R Imports and one of the Tech told him it def sounded like a fuel pressure issue. He popped a fuel gauge on a hose and sure enough it was only getting 9psi and needed to be over 40PSI. So after talking to the guy's at G&R they told him the plastic housing that the fuel pump mounts in also acts as a fuel filter and it sounded like it was dirty, he once again pulled the pump and took the plastic housing apart and cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, he said it was pretty bad but after cleaning it about 10 times it looked brand new.. Popped it back in the tank, cranked it over and BAM she fired up like a baby, ran smooth and quiet and took it for a spin and all acceleration was back and running like a champ.. I just wanted to give you a heads up on the part where he was told the plastic housing also acts as a filter as I did not know this and I know plenty of people have talked about having similar issues before and I never seen anyone mention the plastic housing in the tank acting like a fuel filter.. Hope this helps some guy's out..
Oh man what a PITA. The fuel pressure regulator is located in that housing. It was probably dirty/stuck open allowing fuel to return back to the tank resulting in low pressure. Glad you got it fixed! Bet thats a relief.
Just picked up a fuel pressure gauge. I guess I will see what my pressure is. If it's low, then I guess it's time for the second go around with pulling the pump out of the tank.
Well, got 15 PSI constant pressure when I start it and when it starts cutting out and backfiring. Looks like the tank is coming out again. I also contacted G&R, and they suspected a bad pressure regulator. I think it's also part of that housing so hopefully I can get it all fixed up with one more time out and back into the tank. I'll keep you updated. Thanks,
Took the bed off my truck back in the fall. Dropped the tank while it was off and decided to open it up and look around. It was pretty much empty when I removed it and I was ready to steam it out and give it a good cleaning if it needed it. I was also going to replace the sock if it was dirty (was planning on trying a sock from a Toyota car like in the fuel pump crossover find by Terry). Luckily, the tank was spotless and the sock had a very small spot of debris on it. I brushed the sock off and put it all back together. Anyways, I snapped a few pics and thought I'd post them to help put an image with the topic at hand.
I just bought a "NEW" housing from G&R. going to take a month to get here as it's coming from Japan but I'll feel a little better after replacing it with NEW.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to this project. Been a little crazy. I finally got the tank pulled today and I don't see any issues with the sock or pump. I still need to get that damn housing pulled apart again and see what's inside of it. I don't see any return lines to the tank from the engine so I'm a little confused how the pressure regulator works. I don't know if it's the little spring and cap that I see inside the housing or if I'm missing something somewhere. I tried to pry around on the spring a little and it doesn't seem to move so I'm not sure it that is the part that could be stuck or if it's supposed to be that stiff. I guess I will know more when I get the housing apart. If anyone has pulled one apart before, is there any tricks other than 10 screwdrivers stuck in the housing and trying to get it to pop apart? Thanks, Jeff.
Ok, little update. I got the housing apart....with 10 screwdrivers again, and pulled the little yellow cap off on the inside of the housing. I was able to pull out this little PCV valve looking device and I believe that this is the fuel pressure regulator. It appears to be spring loaded, but this thing is stuck solid. I can't get it to move either way even with a punch and hammer. I also see that the housing has quite a bit of weight to it and I think it's full of something. The little valve is caked with some very very fine sand. I'm starting to wander if someone decided to pay me some bad fortune by dumping sand in my tank. I guess I'm on the hunt for the entire sending unit so I can just replace it all and fix my problem once and for all. Thanks, Jeff.
Been doing some digging on the parts and it appears that the reason that we can't find a fuel filter on this model of truck is because the plastic housing in the tank is the actual filter. I searched on ebay for "toyota fuel filter housing" and see some similar units. They are actually not too expensive. I then searched for "toyota fuel pressure regulator", and found a part that looks just like my fuel pressure regulator. This part is around $225. So, I would like to call G&R, but if I get a complete used housing and unit, then I'm actually getting a used fuel filter as well. I wander if I can get just the housing/filter and the regulator. Thanks, Jeff.
G&R had both a brand new filter and regulator in stock. Should be here tomorrow. Hopefully will be cruising by Saturday. I'll post part numbers when I get them. Hopefully they can be crossed to something that we can find locally. Thanks Jeff
Agree with Wedge, thanks Jeff for the update and pics. Looking forward to see how everything turns out.
Well, we are back in business. Can't believe how much better the little guy runs. I got it all back together with the new filter and regulator and it pushed 45-48 PSI right away. No more stumbling or hard starts. Thanks to G&R for getting the parts out so fast. I did decide to cut the old filter apart to see what was inside and I was surprised that there is no paper filiment inside. It appears that if you took the time to flush clean gas through the housing and was able to get all the gunk out, that you could get by without replacing the entire filter housing. The inside is just another type of plastic and it must trap the sediment in the bottom. Anyway, peace of mind is also worth the price of the new filter. Thanks everyone for the advice. Hope I provided some useful information. Thanks, Jeff.
