Lifting a Suzuki

No it was not.

It was a rebuff to your premise that you require a lift in order to mount larger rims.

If you don't care, and just want a lift over 2", search hunibar.

 

oh i see what you are saying now, thanks

only thing is my truck has 155R13 Light truck tyres standard (155/80r13) =22.76". these are no good as you have to deflate a lot to get good floatation Around 5-7psi which affects the already low ground clearance a fair bit

the plan is to fit a 185R14LT (185/80r14) = 25.65", which gives me a 1.44" lift from tyres only. i do not believe a standard 2" lift will allow this tyre to clear the body.

i do a lot of sand driving and would like to have a large sidewall for deflating purposes.

i will look at hunibars build

thanks

 

This is a case of having to work inside of the box.
I found that the kumo's that I have were most excellent in the sand, as they tended to float. The studs are great for logs and rocks too. But weight is and issue for the hyway. Have a look at some 55r's.

If you're really set on the deflation thing, have a look at the 13"/14" UTV after market and some 24-8-13/14.

A lift beyond 2" is a big can of worms and any solution, other than, is going to be cheaper and less headaches.

The huni-bar was designed by one of our members as a solution to camber correction and axle angle limitation. It's a premise that I just happen to agree with. That if you correct camber from the top, you get axle "stuffage" and reduce the limit angle of the inner CV. By correcting from the bottom(push-out), designed limits of 24deg are available for articulation of the front suspension. My experiments indicated an additional 4.5" before CV and axle internals contact.
Dropping the diff has much of the same negative effects, as this also gives axle stuffage from the inside of the system, limiting available articulation.
These are all problems linked to the facts of a-arm angle of rotation and top post camber correction. The huni-bar moves the a-arm mounting point to a position that resembles the original angle of rotation AND corrects camber in doing so.

If you don't understand the above, don't try to lift beyond 2".

Good luck.

 

i highly doubt the 15" will be any good in the sand i drive in. it is very very soft. if you dont deflate, you will not get very far at all. furthermore, snow tyres are basically non existent in australia.

utv tyres are out of the question too as i would like DOT approved and non aggresive tyres.

i regulary sit on the freeway no problem with my car at 100km/hr (~60mph). 175r13 or 185r14 light truck tyres are the only real options for me in terms of conservative increase in tyre diameter, while maintaining legal tyres for the road and robust, non aggresive treat pattern. Light truck tyres have extra plies much the same as 4wd tyres and are therefore more resistant to damage when 4wding.

i have searched for "hunibar", "huni" on these forums and no such topic exists. care to point me in the right direction? only related result i found was a post by your referring to the hunibar

am i right in assuming the hunibar effectively increases the length of the lower control arms by extending the mounting hole outwards? thereby correcting the camber issue while unstuffing the cv's?

if this is the case i dont see how this is more effective than lowering the diff and therefore the mounting point for the lower control arms?

 

http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?5960-Lifting-a-Carry

"Lifting-a-Carry" VS "Lifting-a-Suzuki"
The former wins, in my opinion. Here is the hunti-bar...

This is so 2009 man, just read, then search, then read. Have a look at the cv joint angle pics (on angle cards) at full extension and compression. Search for it. Then read some more.

I don't want to come across all negative, but you have to search out these answers. They've already been discussed in detail. If you have some specific questions after, lot's of guys here will be glad to help you out.

I'm not about to argue a diff drop point with you. If you want to do it, then do it.

In any case good luck with your mod, and hope to see a thread here about it.

 

Thought I would include this simple to understand conceptual sketch.

 

so in summary

a greater than 2" lift will move the wheels closer in and therefore compress/bind the CV. simple geometry proves this. wheel moves in and cv no longer has the required room to move.

a "huntibar" eliminates need for a diff drop while correcting camber and alleviating cv joint binding?

distance required to drop lower control arm mounting holes is = (lift height) - 1"

therefore for 3" lift, general rule is to drop the mounting holes 2"?

thanks again spaner, your knowledge is indeed very helpful

 

I don't mind helping out if you're going to do the reading, and figure out the details on your own. Looks like you did a bit. A few tara bytes of gems and some advanced techniques here.
I kinda lied so that you could understand a little about the system. The huntibar corrects camber from the bottom, yes, and it is easier to understand the cv-axle stuffage concept through reference to the a-arms shorter horizontal distance as a consequence of strut extension. This is not really true though. It is due to the angle of rotation of the a-arm in relation to the angle of rotation of the inner CV joint. What is actually happening here, is that in using the huntibar, you are relocating the a-arm mount to a position below the CV joint AOR. Where it was above before, now it's below. This is what makes the new geometry work. While stock; the angles are very close together, yet stuffage is a combination of both of these factors. Moving to the new configuration, with the a-arm AOR below that of the inner CV, the conditions are reversed. Suffage happens with a decrease in lift, but, is also where less angle is required. Extension occurs with an increase in lift to the maximum CV extension and angle limit, while having corrected for camber.
This is why dropping the diff has a negative effect in the stock configuration, as it amplifies the condition to a point where a "strait axle angle" condition is the only one available . Although fine, dropping, when following at greater lifts in the new geometry configuration. This also allows for proper rigging at maximum "off the ground" extension, as the limit of the strut, limits the angle. I have draw all of this out on here somewhere. I'm sure that you could find it.
If you've done some reading then you will have been able to understand all of that.
For your particular truck, the way to start is to jack it off the ground, remove the inner a-arm mount on the shortie side, as well as the drag link connection, and look at the maximum extension of the cv at slightly off camber (peal the boot back), as it will come back in when dropped down. Thinking that you have a 2.5" strut extension, you will have to drop the strut down an additional 2" to get the 4.5 that I found.
Down the road:
Use an afco spring lift to limit articulation.
Total extension, 4"
Compression with afcos, 3/4"
Total lift from stock, 3 1/4"
Boosted afco lift, 1 3/4"
Total strut spacer 1 1/2"
Suspension locks with 1/2 fudge factor and a few degrees either way.
You will expect to drop the a-arm 3 1/4", and mount it at a lateral position that gives proper camber at ride loading.
Lifting beyond 3 1/4" should be followed with an equal diff drop measure.
Not to mention the rest of the stuff.
Sure you don't just want to order a second set of ATV tires?



The basics, think of it this way. The perfect geometry would be to set up the angles like an upper and lower control arm system. The upper being the axle, the lower being the a-arm. No stuffage, and no extension. You could use the full 4.5", but would be very difficult to set-up.

 

Great info spaner thanks.

 

anyone care to share their "huntibar" drawings for a 2002 carry?

 

ok, excuse me for thinking out side the square a bit here but why cant i just increase the length of the lower control arm?

this will effectively fix camber and "unstuff" the lower control arms

 

Sowsticker,

I have 185/65R14 tires and just lifted my truck 2", but the right side is still rubbing when I cut the tires - on my concrete drive way. I'm guessing its going to much worse when bouncing across the field. So my question is, when you talk about "trimming fenders", is it as simple as marking it off and cutting with a sawsall? The fender has an inside lip for strength, do you just cut that off and not worry about it? I've looked around, and haven't found where someone said how they trimmed. Thanks for any info or suggestions, Greg

 

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Xroads,

I have a 95 carry and installed a 2" lift and experienced the same problem as many others. When backing up, the camber is so bad that the tires ride on the edge. I made a bracket to lower the lower control arms, but that changed the camber too much the other way. I've read there is a 'more workable' lift for the front that will help with the camber. Do you have them for sale? Thank you, Greg

 

3" Lift kit on 92 Carry

I put a 3: lift on my 92 Carry. It worked fine with no binding. It wasn't exactly Simple I had to do little wending and cuting. I bought a 3" kit off Ebay. I used the Spacers on the front but thought the super long shackles looked hoaky and just flipped the rear axle. That required buying and redrilling new spring perches. When I dropped the axle I lost some drive line length and had to redrill the new perches to move the axle forward an inch. I also had to cut off and reweld the parking brake cable bracket and relocate the lower shock mounts. On the fronts I also added 250 rate coils which reduced the front end bounce and dip. To compesate for the added suspension angle I used spacers and longer bolts ( 12mm X 80mm fine ) to lower the front x-member 2" and a flat stock bracket to lower the nose of the front Dif. This brought the front suspension angle back almost to stock. Also I had to slightly bend the front radius rods to match up with the lowered suspension. Then spaced this back with some 1/2" washers to keep the lower arms at a more centered position. Oh yea I almost forgot, I also had to modify the engine X-member to accomodate the lowered front drive line.
Like I said not exactly a peace of cake but it workes. I run 25" atv tires with no rub or bind.
Mike
Palmer

 

I just install a 3 inch lift kit from gr imports and am having problems with the camber on the front wheels and is driving me crazy looking at the tires trom the front of the truck , they go in from the bottom of the tire , is any body have any idea how to fix the camber

 

You may have to lower the front cross memder a couple inches to compensate for the suspension and axle drop.

 

Wow. There are some mechanical genius's on here. Thank god!! Hahaha i have been doing my reading as well i should. My stupid question for the day is how tall a lift can i order that is good. I have the tools and ability but know that if one of the guru's on here has manufactured something correctly i would be better off. Im just a back yard mechanic with a torch and a welder compared to some of y'all. Im in need of height as well as wheel travel. I live and play in Alaska. That said my 4 wheeler has issues going hunting let alone my 94 carry. I know that im going to have to get a set of tracks eventually. But until then. Any suggestions ideas or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanx

 

Hello Mr Muddy Moose
I hope you got all those pics I sent ok. I know it looks like quite the project but if you just jump in and do it up right. Those Carrys make really good off road vehicles. Just kind of cob it together and you wont be satisfied with the results.
If you have a welder your good to go. Im not a super mechanic and mine came out perty nice.
I have lots more pics and am glad to answer any questions you might have.

Mike
Palmer, Ak.

 

Right on. I did. Thankyou. I sent a reply or two........but i have been having issues with my AT&t phone AGAIN...........ill check and see if they went threw. I really do appreciate that though. I am wondering about how much the reared hangs up on things now that ya flipped the axle. I know that i reluctantly helped a friend flip his on a land cruiser. He can't go threw the deep snow like he did before and he hangs up on things like logs a bit more. I like the fact that the springs work like skis to help slide over things. But at the end of the day it is a far better way to go than with shackles.

 

Dude
you dont actually flip the axle upside down you flip it under the springs and leave it right side up. you will need to buy new spring perches. and weld them to the top of the axle so the springs will bolt back on flat. Also new holes will need to be drilled in the spring perches to move the axle forward 1 inch.

 

Oh yea i know ya dont flip it over. What i was sayimg was that i like having the springs under the axle because the springs actually help you slide over all sorts of things. When the axle is under the spring the axle tube can snag up. Ill probably flip mine if i dont end up finding a set of springs to replace mine with. Im also looking into finding a diff lock or limited slip for the front diff.

 

Has anyone had issues with the front drive line pulling out of the t case when doing the lift? I have a total of about 6 1/2 inches of lift in the front now. Was quite a challenge just making a temporary lift.......yes temporary......dropped the front diff and blocked the arms down. But drive line pulled about an inch and half out of the front of the t case. I don't have monster tires on......yet.....just 23-10.5-12 all the way around. Have a 5 inch offset on the wheels. So now I'm 9 inches wider than with the stock tires on. That's why I need the height. So the wheels didn't hit the body. Way stable. Any way.....got off the question sorry.

 

Did you block the struts down the same amount as the arm mounts?

 

Yup. But now I'm wondering if the 275 pound springs I put in would make me have to drop them farther. Also I noticed today that the front wheels are about an inch and half or so forward from where they should be in the wheel wells.

 

I have a 98 Carry and also did the axle flip from top to bottom. I had to cut and relocate the emergency brake cable brackets, brake line to housing and the differential lock solenoids to make it work. I did not buy the axle perches, just cut the old ones off and re-welded back on. Mwood is right. the driveshaft is about an inch short after this. Cannot run because it hangs out too far. Moving the spring bolt forward is a great idea as opposed to getting a new driveshaft made.

 

even easier, and only cost a few dollars...... go to a machine shop and have them make a spacer out of a piece of aluminum. im getting one made for the rear driveline. I have figured out how to fix the front drive line issue I ran into. rather than cutting the radious arm and making it longer in order to move the entire front end back to where it belongs, im making an adapter plate that will allow me to move everything back and add small skid plated to the control and radious arms. ill add pics once finished....... I cant draw for the life of me hahaha

 

apparently cant spell either

 

Save some bucks, and use a hockey puck. Snapage protection as well with the wee bit of torsional compression.