i have a 1994 suzuki carry had carb rebuilt but the motor still wants to race and wont idle down, the two water hoses that runs to the carb still feel cool shouldnt they be warm or hot? what should ido to see if they are restricted some where i did blow air in the hose but that didnt seem to do anything and the high idle button dont move to idle the motor down.
As your engine warms the lines to the carb should also warm and this is what heats the wax pellet and opens the choke.If the rest of your cooling system is working then you may have an air lock some where in the carb loop.There is a restrictor valve mounted to the motor mount that is in one line that runs from the intake manifold to the back of the carb and I have seen this plugged up.I found this on an engine I was rebuilding and hadn't run so not sure what effect it would have but it would definitely stop the flow. It is a metal tube about 3/4" diameter and 2" long with 5/16" nipples on each end.Easy to check but be careful to not put too much pressure on the nipples if you try to remove the clamps as they will break pretty easy.
I ran into the same thing with my 95 Carry. Ran a small welding rod through the rubber lines that carry coolant and found that both were plugged. As soon as coolant would flow freely, I hooked them back to carb base and it worked perfectly. SG
It would be wise when time permits or when its time to change the complete cooling fluid is to flush out the whole coolant system and preheat lines to carb. I have been totally shocked at some of the crap that has come out of these cooling systems over the yrs. Doesnt matter the model or make. It wouldnt hurt to use the Preston radiator cleaning kit. Jim is right on by being careful and working easy with the ends of pipes. Often the very ends are on the verge of disappearing, or rottem away. Ive seen a lot of those carb. preheat hoses stopped up. So much as it looks like a solid putty material inside hose. You can disconnect that carb. pre heat line at both ends and blow through it. If you clean the whole system and adding new coolant place nose of truck up on ramps or a log, anything that gets the nose up in the air about 4 to 6". That will help you get the air out of system after thermostat opens up when it gets up to running temp. Ive tried the air bleed off screw before and found out that raising the front of truck works faster and works every time.
I recently had a similar problem with the engine racing and not idling down and it had nothing to do with the choke. I thought it was a vac issue and in a way it was. The "idle-up actuator" on the carb had a diaphragm leak and wouldn't lower the idle when vac was applied from the elec solenoid valve. I bought a replacement actuator and now it's working fine. The actuator can be located on one of the carb diagrams on another thread. One quick test would be to try pushing the rod back in to the actuator when the engine is revving high. Also, the electric switch that activates this system might be faulty or unplugged. That's another issue I discovered while I was a few miles from anywhere on a backwoods trail.
Im having similar problem engine racing after about a mile, I will began to lose power & it usually cuts off, then I sit for 15-20 min it normally cranks back up....got any ideas? should I just get a new carb?
The guy I bought it from (month) just put new filter & pump,,,,I took fuel line loose at carb & it pumped fuel....Is there more than one fuel filter? Im adding sea foam today...
Mine has filter from tank to carb and one from carb to tank. Also something I've ran into on a couple rigs not just my mini now.......the timed vacuum switch has either two three or four lines to it. If it went bad and someone switched it they may have hooked the hi idle silinoid to full time vacuum. Mine is that way now but because I have a lot of electric being used for stereo and lights. But might check that as well. Also my lined to the carb stayed cold all the time too. So I wedged myself under the little thing and found that there is a plastic "T" in those lines. Mine had melted and when it did it melted closed Hahaha. Couldn't even tell till I took it out coast I was putting metal "T's" in. I don't like plastic ones up herehere cause they break when the temp drops to 40-50 below zero. Good luck
I put 5 gals fuel with sea foam atop a almost empty tank, and drove it further than I have since I brought it home without incident. I thought the sea foam was my solution then about .5 from house I slowed down & it quit. After about 20min of waiting I pampered life into it to get home. It acted like it was flooded or couldn't clear it throat. Im sure this am it will crank easily & maybe repeat this trip...Im gonna check today to see if theres a sock filter inside tank...and possibly change out filter between tank & pump..
