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Radiator Fan No Workie....Where is Relay?

Discussion in 'Honda Acty' started by jkade72, May 21, 2013.

  1. jkade72

    jkade72 Member

    Where is the cooling fan relay on a 94 acty? The fan will not come on, I hooked the fan to 12v and it works. The plug has power going to it but the ground is not grounding out so that makes me think it is the relay. Any Help Appreciated!!
     
  2. Borg

    Borg Member

    Check behind the glove box. My '91 has the relay back there I believe, I was trying to figure out how to get the fan to shut off when the truck is hot and the engine is turned off... but no luck.
     
  3. jkade72

    jkade72 Member

    I will give it a look.


     
  4. jkade72

    jkade72 Member

    None behind the glove box, I have not Idea. It is fixing to run all the time...lol.
     
  5. Scottdunk

    Scottdunk New Member

    Have you tried under the drivers seat. I'm pretty sure that's where some relays are.
     
  6. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    It would be good if someone could post a relay box and fuse box diagram.
    On a BMW forum I found for example this for all model years for the E32 7 series model built from 1986-1994
    http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-relaisbelegung.htm

    Would be nice if someone has that and can post it.
     
  7. shogun

    shogun Active Member

    Yesterday I talked to a Honda Tech who knows the Acty quite well. He told me the main reason to have the fan cooling while engine is running, but especially after the engine has been switched off is to avoid vapor lock in the carburetor.
    VW had the same problem with the old Beetle, here copied:
    Vapor Lock

    Have you ever had this problem? You are driving home from work late in the afternoon. It's 90oF (32oC) outside and there's lots of traffic, so accelerating and decelerating a lot. The engine is working, and you know it's getting hot. Then, about 4-5 miles from home, the engine suddenly starts surging and then decides to take a rest altogether. As you pull off the road you think to yourself, "This couldn't be an electrical problem - the engine wasn't actually cutting out, just surging." Alternately, you drive to the store on a hot day (far enough so that the engine gets thoroughly hot); when you return from the store to the car, it won't start! What's up with that!?

    So you lift the engine lid and notice right off that there is no fuel in that small fuel filter in the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor (if you have such a filter -- we actually recommend that you don't have a filter here). So right away you know the problem (right?) - vapor lock! The usual problem is that the whole engine gets thoroughly hot, and when you switch off, there is a 'heat soak' period when the temperature in the tinware and engine compartment rises because the residual heat in the cylinder/heats isn't getting blown away by the fan. The heads run at about 265-285oF (130-140oC) and can run up to about 355oF (180oC) on a really hard run which is pretty hot.This causes the metal fuel line around the tinware, the fuel pump, and the carburetor to all heat up somewhat, causing either excess vaporization of the fuel in the carburetor, or and actual vapor lock in the fuel line or fuel pump.

    As a result, starting is sometimes hard. With hot fuel in the carburetor, the least reduction in pressure (through the carburetor throat) causes instant vaporization, perhaps of fuel in the float bowl too (which breathes into the top of the carburetor throat), and of course a vapor lock in the fuel line or pump is even worse, because it will result in an empty fuel bowl in the carburetor - the car uses that fuel and stalls because it can't get any more. Then it takes a lot of cranking to fill the fuel bowl, once the vapor lock itself is cleared.

    http://www.vw-resource.com/vapor_lock.html

    Also there is no relay box like in other cars, try to follow the wires. I will try to get more info on this, but may take time.
     

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