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Please help fast!!

Discussion in 'General Truck Info' started by jwetovick, Feb 21, 2013.

  1. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Have a 95 mits truck. Power to headlights dome light hazards but do not have power to ignition. What am I missing here? I've checked fuses in fuse box and all good. Battery went dead and then when I went to jump it I had no power to dash lights and ignition. Help please. Blizzard and need to push snow. Thank you!
     
  2. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Well, I'm not familiar with the mits, but you're like NOW!!

    Could be a fusible link, or even the fuse in the box that you're looking at. Sometimes they can burn, with such a fine crack, that you can't see it. Test it.

    If that fails, you can jump it, with a 4" piece of wire with connectors.
    At the fuse box, jump from the head lights (take that fuse out, and the headlights will not work). Jump it to the ignition (power-side) of the ignition feed fuse, in the box.
    Test it, you will have power at the coil.
    WARNING,
    You will no longer have circuit protection of the ignition system,

    BUT, it will have power,
    I don't recommend this though, unless you know what you're doing.

    Fix it with a jumper in two seconds...
     
  3. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Well I now know what I did. When going to jump start it the cables got put on opposite so it blew something. But what and where?? Too cold and now dark to work on it. Can't believe this happened.
     
  4. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Ahaa, well there you go.
    Good for you for saying so, many would not, AND we could waste a lot of time messing around for nothing.

    Wait for the morning and start testing circuits at first light.

    You know you blew something; should be relatively easy to find what went wrong; then fix it...:sly:

    Probably a fusible link, as well as a few fuses...two or three...

    Easy...that's what the burn-out-systems are there for...just replace...:)
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
  5. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Thanks spanner. Not afraid to admit because actually this is what getting in a hurry gets me. Trust me I'm not quite this dumb all the time. Ha. Thanks again. You recommend just starting from battery and follow wires up or do you happen to know where I need to look specifically? Just moved and can't find my manual. Go figure right? Ughhh long evening
     
  6. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    ...


    Sure,
    Take the battery OUT. Trickle charge the battery, over-night.
    Then, you know that's not the problem.
    Test a few circuits, test a few fuses.
    Test the main-line -fusible-link.

    You should be there, depends; are you following instructions; or just going on your own?

    Any fusible links, on these trucks, should be within 12", of the batt connection...

    Large connection, large wire. PROBABLY BURNT;
    BUT; BYPASS POSSIBLE...
    BETTER TO REPLACE WITH WHATEVER.
    AFTER FIX.
    LIKE GM; POSSIBLE FIX PROTECTION FROM LOCAL PART'S SHOP; "FUSIBLE-LINK"...

    Test a power line to the battery, from the fuse box...
    NO-POWER...fusible-link...
    YES-POWER...THEN, CHECK OTHER LINE...little replaceable fuse...

    MAX, three...lines...
    Two or three fusible links, from the battery.
    One burnt, maybe two...
    Easy to replace.


    ...
     
  7. o8k

    o8k Member

    Just tossing this out there.... Have you added or changed any electrical devices recently? Some common ones are; 1. swaping the radio 2. adding a tachometer? The way these vehicles are wired leaves lots to be desired if you plan on altering ANYTHING. But the designers did a fantastic job at cutting costs by routing the electrical system with very few grounds. There is a great thread in here about wiring up a radio.

    i tried to find the thread but had no luck. From memory i will share this. the electrical system can be tricky. For example, i wired up my radio incorrectly the first go around. When i turned on my headlights, my dash lights went out and the radio quit working, then when i turned off my head lights, the radio and dash lights came back on (weird cominations of things working and not working). What i discovered was that some wires, when tested, appear to be 12v+ but are not actualy a power rail or VCC, but a series of devices daisy chained together.

    SO, if you goofed with the wiring, you may have this issue. Further, if you hooked your jumper cable up wrong and blew up a diode or other descrete component (not nessisaraly the fuse) you could have essentialy broken that daisy chain and caused havoc.

    hope this helps =\
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  8. On a lot of trucks there is a fusible link right behind the battery, it's a white plastic housing about as big around as a pencil and maybe 4" long. I did the same thing a couple years ago not paying attention and fried that fusible link, if you have one just take it loose, replace the wire and you're all set.


     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  9. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Two thumbs up guys...;)

    This is what makes this forum so much fun to hang-your-hat; great advice, by great people.
    AND,
    "Experience/knowledge is directly proportional to the amount of broken equipment."

    I've been chasing an electrical/charging/drain-draw problem for the last 2-years. Just couldn't figure it out. I drive around with a "booster-battery-pack", in the box, and, the main harness wired-for-sound (testers). Just doesn't make any sense. Everything from 12.9 to 14.6V, through all RPM ranges and driving conditions.
    Full load amp, to no load...bat removed (off and on, to test). No rhyme or reason, no consistency.
    Considered belt wrap/slip.
    Considered spin rate; after various mods.

    Finally, I think that I have it narrowed down to an alternator-combination-fault. "Hanging brushes (old), and a fried diode (over-heat).
    Feed, draw, short. Feed, draw, short.

    Sent it to a shop with full bench testing scope.

    I'll find out next week. At the very least, I can eliminate the component as the problem.
     
  10. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    Spaner my old GMC truck had a similar issue..I thought it was the voltage regulator and replaced the alternator..ended up being the heater fan resistor was going bad and causing a huge draw at times..
     
  11. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    Ha, you're lucky it didn't catch on fire.
    The one in my Mystique did (recall on it) but I was sitting in it at the time and put it out.

    For awhile there, I thought it was my aftermarket radio, cu'z it would just stop working for no reason. I could hear the main relay (power) clicking over, display would change, a tape would get sucked in...etc. But no sound.
    Unit doesn't work below 11v...;)

    Chased a similar problem on my mystique. Engine would just die and not start. Wait 5 minutes and it's back to normal. That one I just replaced components. First the battery, then the alternator.
    No difference. Alt was $200 and 5hr work. (had to remove the exhaust)
    Turned out to be a wire chafe in the main harness behind the engine, ECM main power line.

    Talk about throwing erroneous codes..;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013
  12. o8k

    o8k Member

    jwetovick, i hope you have found your issue already and you back toodling around in your truck! let us know you made out. Well im learning bunches reading this thread too. Thanks all!
     
  13. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Thanks a ton fellas. I am heading out to mess around with the mini this morning. At quick glance last night I did not see a fusible link right behind battery. Would it be further up the line? Hope to fix today. Thanks again
     
  14. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    So what I have found at first look is off the negative post the wire goes about 12 in and is then grounded to the frame. From there the negative wire is ran about 2 more feet and is grounded again. I assume where the wires meet at that first spot is a fusible link? Well from what I can see its not blown which is probably not a good thing. Now what should I check? Thanks guys
     
  15. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    I have the James dank manual and go figure it does not have much in it for electrical. This darn problem has to be something simple!
     
  16. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    I had a ford that did exactly the same thing to. Hooked the wires backward. Turned out it fried a diode in the alternator. Also took out the coil and lastly the rotor in the distributor. Took.me for ever to figure out the cap and rotor...........I'm not real failier with these yet but if it cranks but doesn't run I would start at the coil and distributor and go from there to the starter then alternator. Just work backward with an ohm meter
     
  17. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    It don't crank because I have no power to ignition, radio or dash lights but do have power to dome and headlights. Do have power to starter but don't know where to check now? Hope didn't fry alt as I just put a new one in 4 months ago.
     
  18. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    That sounds like a fuse or relay. I'm not failier with these mini yet. I just got mine but they aren't very different from any other rig. Try running power to the coil and crank I and see if it starts. I just found my charging wire off my alternator was broke inside the connection. Might check those. Any parts store should be able to test ur alternator free. I bet its a broken wire.
     
  19. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Gosh I'm hoping its something simple as I'm planning on selling the mini this spring so don't want to have to dump more money into it. Will be calling g & r tomorrow to see if they can point me in right direction.
     
  20. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Awww man.......are ya upgrading? I Havnt even gotten to go for a real ride in mine yet and don't want to get rid of it Hahaha.
     
  21. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Will be super tough for me to get rid of my mini as its so darn handy and reliable. However I moved next to a river and will be selling mini and getting a jeep. I did find that I over looked a blown main fuse!! Under the passenger seat there is a small fuse box with 2 large fuses and one is blown. Went to napa and they don't carry same fuse. Go figure. So online shopping for a fuse I go. Hopefully this fuse is the only issue!! Will keep you posted.
     
  22. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    And now I'm finding these fuses are ever so slightly different from a normal PAL style fuse. Any suggestions?
     
  23. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    eBay!! My go to spot. Found one.
     
  24. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Nice......now I'm going out to see if I have those as well.......I would rather find one before I need it Hahaha
     
  25. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Awesome. On my mits the fuse box is towards the outside of the mini by the washer fluid tank. Has pink and green Japanese writing on it. Good luck.
     
  26. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    Mine is under the dash on the driver side. No fuses under the passenger side
     
  27. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    When I say passenger side I meant under the seat not dash. Hope that helps.
     
  28. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

    You need one of those "Staple's buttons" jwetovick, "That was easy"...hehe..

    But, you figured it out?

    Did that solve the major problems? You just blew the under seat fuse; right?
     
  29. jwetovick

    jwetovick Member

    Yes needed one of those fuses. I ordered on ebay. Won't have it for a few days but hoping like heck that's my only problem!!
     
  30. spaner

    spaner Well-Known Member

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