I opened this post to list aftermarket parts used on this vehicle. This vehicle is stock. Specs: 93 Hijet S80LP 4x2 550cc 4spd with Hi/Low Left Hand Drive Item: Manufacturer/Source Part# Thermostat: napa #531080, 180deg. note: had to drill small vent hole Thermostat Gasket: napa #1067-st Drive Belt: napa #25-7300, no a/c, no p/s Air Filter: napa #6247 Fuel Filter: napa #3053, or Purolator #F20005 Oil Filter: napa #21394 Oil: 10w30 Ign. Wires: napa #700168, 7mm (4cyl+ign. coil wire) note: build your own Dist. Cap: site sponsor (A-2 inside cap) Dist. Rotor: YEC/napa #141-3606 Spark Plugs: NGK#7131 Turf Tires: Northern Tool 205/65-10, trailer tires load C, 6ply Street Tires: OE 145/12 Lug Nuts: Gorilla/Amazon #71117(4pack), 13/16" shoulder Ft Struts: Rebuildable cartridges. L/F OE KYB casing #48520-87525, R/F casing #48510-87542. Rear Shocks: Monroe #32207/napa #94038 Muffler: Walker/Amazon #18136 Exhaust Pipe: napa #47980, 1.5" OD Brake System Flush: DOT3 Fluid Starter Bendix Shaft Nose Bushing: Lester #17565 Radiator/Thermal Fan Switch: napa #FS130SB(what I'm using, and may change due to low temp when fan comes on, and cycles for only 3-5seconds. Radiator temp drops from 189 to 140, while reading with infrared temp gun), along with blue electrical bullet connectors or #FS132 depending on spec requirements. Both have 16mm x 1.5 threading. UPDATE: installed #FS132, using female spade connectors, and engine temp doesn't go above 5/8. I found that the #FS130SB may have been fighting the thermostat, both around 180deg. specs. Starter Relay: Denso OE#056700-5260(12volt 22amp) can be cross-referenced to numerous part numbers. Napa #AR355, AR215SB, or AR355SB. Choose the relay based on circuit diagram on side of your relay. Tie Rods: Moog ES488L(Left outer and Rt inner) these tie rods are LH threading. Some rods may have a slight bend and/or greaseable depending on cross-referenced manufacturer. Tie Rods: Moog ES484R(Rt outer and Left inner) these tie rods are RH threading. Some rods may have a slight bend and/or greaseable depending on cross-referenced manufacturer. Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve LH Thread Lock Nuts: VW #N0111136 14mm x 1.5 threading, bought at local VW dealership, for 72 Beetle Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve: 39cm in length. RH and LH threading. Threading is 14mm x 1.5. Cleaned and applied anti-seize. Radio: Dual/Wal-Mart #XR4110 (dimensions-178 x 50 x 107mm) Throttle Body Cleaner: to clean carb butterfly Timing: 8deg Btdc Wiper Blades: 15"/17" Ft Outer Wheel Bearings: OE NSK #HR30203J = Timken #30203 Radiator Cap: Stant/napa #703-1695 (13psi) Fuel Cap: Stant/napa #703-1719 U-Joints: Precision/napa #PUJ-385 Antenna Mast: site sponsor Front Bumper Paint: Dupli-Color/napa #FB105, check photo album to compare. If any further parts are replaced on this vehicle, I will just add to this list, versus opening a sepperate post. Sources for searching parts I used are in the thread posted in my signature. I finally convinced my father to take this vehicle off my hands, and the usefullness of it over his golf cart for his ranch.
Front strut rebuild I will be adding pictures/instructions on ft strut rebuild in this post. Step(1) - Check your suspension while pushing down on the front of vehicle, at top strut mount, to check before and after difference. Remove top strut mount cap to access center strut nut. While supporting vehicle in the center, and a floor jack under corresponding contro arm, remove top strut nut. Slowly lower control arm jack until spring pressure is zero. Step(2) This picture shows strut rod collapsed with zero return pressure - bad. Remove spring. Clean around where strut rod enters strut body. Eight sided nut. Step(3) Reinstall springless strut. Reinstall strut rod nut. Jack control arm up slightly to help support strut so you don't damaged threads when nut removed. Loosen nut at top of strut body - see channel locks. Step(4) Remove strut cartridge nut and seal. Step(5) Strut body nut removed, now strut cartridge is visible. Remove upper strut mount nut again. Lower control arm supporting jack. Compress strut cartridge rod if needed. Move top of strut body outwards to clear body/fender when removing cartridge from housing. Step(6) Strut cartridge, seal, and strut body nut. Right here, take the time to get the dimensions of strut cartirdge and body. There are aftermarket cartridges that measure about a 1/2" shorter, in this case, if I replaced them, I would add a rubber wedge in the bottom of the housing. Step(7) Strut housing minus cartridge. Clean housing of any debris or old fluid. Use shop air if available. Step(10) Install Dextron fluid to about 1/3 of the strut casing. Excessive fluid will self blead out of the top of the housing - no problem. Use thread anti-seize around strut body nut threads. Step(8) Pull strut rod(shiney part), in bursts, while holding lower cartdidge. There is seal tension that your trying to overcome to seperate base from the rod. The shims, spring, and caps you will see after disassembly in the next step. Pictured is the one insert and the parts from a disassembled insert. Step(9) Rod is now out of casing, and the rod parts can be disassembled. Lay parts out in order as removed, and clean individual items. The spiral spring acts as a check valve. Reassemble in reverse order.
Starter Relay This may not be the proper term for this part, but when removed, the engine will not crank. It is located behind the left side of the dash up high. Denso OE#056700-5260(12volt 22amp) can be cross-referenced to numerous part numbers. Napa #AR355, AR215SB, or AR355SB. Choose the relay based on circuit diagram on side of your relay.
Hey thanks for taking all the time to get these numbers for us. I got a 1992 s80lp for a few hundred about a year ago since then I have been searching for a starter for it. Problem is the starter was missing when i got it so I have no numbers at all and its proved harder than i thought to track one down. Mine is in excellent condition cosmetic wise, but i need a starter to find out if its worth messing with. Its a 2 wheel drive. Do you have any ideas on finding a aftermarket starter,I did find one but they wanted over $500 for it and thats not an option seeing as how I dont what kind of shape the rest of the motor and trans. are. Any help is very much appreciated.
f15larryj, When I got my Hijet, my starter bushing was shot, before I found a bushing to fix it, I installed a starter(Napa #SR4605X) from a '91 Daihatsu Charade 3cyl. The starter mounted perfectly, but the starter solenoid is clocked differently from the original, about 75deg.off. The solenoid ends up being the lowest part of the eng/trans assembly. I didn't use it, I just mounted it. If I would've used it, I probably would've made a guard. When I was researching for a starter, I want to say the specs were the same: bendix rotation, torque, mounting. I don't have my notes on me, you may check my post in the Reference Section for specs. Quick search: Napa-$150+$44core, Rockauto-$60 no core charge. You may take a shot at your local wrecking yard for a Daihatsu starter. Check the Pick-n-pull website, and search based on your location. There are a few used parts suppliers on this site also. Good luck.
