I've already started to modify my air cleaner mount location and air flow length, for different reasons but I will be able to use a removable snorkel for those deaper crossings I keep running into. My past experience with this has been that even though the air intake is protected, other elements do not fair well after being submerged. I've had drive lines fill with water from breather lines, ignition failure due to cap carbon tracking etc. Just curious to hear if you guys have had any deep crossing experience using a snorkel, and if you've had any faliures or damage associated and if you've put on any "countermeasures", I've seen distributor wraps out there.op:
I have replaced all gear box vent lines at least to the bottom of the bed with a small filter on the end to stop water. I never had my truck in water higher than the axle's so I am not much help.
Had a little more experience with this last week while out at the camp. First in very deep loon-sh!t, (beaver-dam), then, in the lake, having driven in to the shallows to first wash the truck off before everything got dry and hard, then to try out the slider on step in deep water. We're talking about 18" of mud, and then 24" of water. First thing that happened is "clutch-fade". As soon as you open the clutch, water or other contamination that has found it's way into the bell, will lube the plate and fade the clutch. Pumping it a few times will get it to lock-up, and once it is, it doesn't slip. Tricky though, no-torque to full-torque. Second problem was the fact that the clutch assembly acts like a "centrifugal water pump" inside the bell. At some point, either in the mud, or in the lake, this effect caused the timing cover plug, on top of the bell, to "blow-off". After that, anything deeper than a few inches of submersion would cause a fire hose type of spray effect to be directed right on to the distributor. (Think about the rotation direction). I'd say that it pumps about 10 gpm @ idle. Engine started to miss, and the distributor was soon filled with water; even got some in the engine. While trying to figure out how I was going to get the truck out of the lake, and having no bell plug anymore, I came up with this simple solution. I took a piece of 24" long plastic bilge pump hose off my boat, the CT corrugated stuff, and cut one of the ends down to 1/4" long (the smooth mounting portion), then stuck it in the hole and routed it under the crossover bar and stuck the out-flow end in between one of the cable mounts on the trany, and the trany itself. The fit is so tight in the hole that I could not pull it out easily, and I actually had a hard time getting it in there. The 10 gpm outflow is now directed away from, and behind the engine. Side benefit, no more clutch fade....hun?... Thought I'd keep updating this subject as I see lots of guys concerned about snorkels and no one has mentioned clutch fade, loosing bell plugs, or the fact that these distributors can not take much water before they flood. (I had to dry the cap and rotor out; luckily, it did not crack) So, until we figure out how to seal the distributor, and then the wires, I don't see a need for a snorkel, as the OEM air intake is at about the same level as the distributor... Feel free to comment if you've had experience, any make, model... NB. I'm not concerned about getting water into the other components as oil is heavier that water. You just have to remember to pull the FILL plugs at some point and let the water drain out. Not a big deal...
I have alot of experience dealing with this in regards to atv's not so much with mini trucks however the basic principals will still apply. First you must route the air intake to breathe air with a good seal at all connections leading up to this point. Dielectric grease every possible electrical connection as well as spark plug wires on both ends. Silicon seal the distributor cap (if you have one). seal the oil check tube. The above mentioned bell housing mod seems to apply here (again I have no experience with mini trucks) If going through deep water is somewhat common for you then I would suggest a manual shut off for the raidator fan because if it comes on under water it will blow the fuse or if its on and you hit water you may damage the fan. Diff vent tubes should be snorkeled as well...Water in diffs is a bad bad thing. If all of this is done then you should be able to do this...
Some good info, thanks, I love dielectric grease BTW. The front diff has an air breather hose that I have relocated to under the left seat, just next to the K&N crank breather filter. The rear diff has a water lock dual action valve, right on the housing, factory. Checked a few times, and no water, front or back. My air intake, I have a water shedding K&N custom micro weave bag right over the filter. In combination with the front slider and momentum, I have no problems with water in the intake. I can go over 24" right now, but I'm still having contamination of the distributor; cap and rotor. I have tried to seal caps in the past with silicone and have had nothing but problems. Basically just makes it harder to pull it, to dry it out...and on humid days, contaminates itself, with no water crossing... I've had better luck with wraps. The "sholder-shrug" here though, was why put a 3 foot snorkle if you can't go over the dizzy? AND if you can, how?
Still working on this on the side, R&D. Anyone have experience pressurizing the distributor. Vacuum's a bad idea, but 1.5 PSI will get you 42" of water column. You guys snap any pics of the dizzys, when you had them off? Is there a drain hole on the arm on the carry F6a?
I keep having issues with water washing the grease out of my wheel bearings... its very annoying and getting very expensive...
I can't get that photobucket link to work. Anyway, the ting to do is go with a grease nipple on the hub. Back of the bearing, forward of the seal between CV joint and hub. If you check out my thread on the front bearing replacement (turned into entire front end) you will see exactly where to instal. You pump the grease into the hub, whenever, and where ever you feel like doing it. Grease in, water out. It's a big job to do it, then it's done, and you never have to do it again. You just have to pump the gun...
Marine grease is your friend!!! I really like that idea of yours up there.........I am going to be doing that one!!!. I always bring my diff vents up to the headlights....or about that level.. ...then drop them back down a foot or so. Works like a "p" trap under your sink at home. In my experience with sealing the dizzy as you call it. Hahaha and now I found that I have started as wellhahahaha I have blown caps in half after sealing them down. Positive pressure added also needs to be vented to avoid adding pressure to the crankcase........don't want to blow valve seals........the wraps are great for stopping spray. But not much will help with complete submersion. If you are moving and don't stop its fairly easy to make water go around it but full stop........ That's tough. Complete electronic ignition with no distributer at all would be the perfect fix for that.. In a perfect world Hahaha. I have toggles for my electric fans. Very muchly needed. I do use lots if dielectric grease on my plug wires. Then I also use zip ties to add a bit more pressure to hold them on. Too much and they pop off hahaha
