I have a 1998 Daihatsu Deckvan it's a 4x4 a/c 660cc S110W. It is hard to start but once you finally get it started it runs good. Once it's warm it will start. Carbuerator has been cleaned, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new battery, seafoamed and running high octane gas in it. Air filter cleaned out and new one on the way. Have tried starting with airfilter out and air box open and won't start. It's getting gas and spark. It's flooding itself. Is there anyway to check the ignition coil to see if it's working properly? You can plug in ignition coil and slide a spark plug in the end of it and your getting a spark but not a very good spark. Any help would be appreciated THANKS!!!:frustration:
sounds like a weak coil,or pitted cap and rotor...check all the wires to the coil for good contact...check the engine ground strap as well...you can tesy engine ground by using 2 clamps on a set of jumper cables to make a temporary ground from the battery - to the engine...if the spark increases then you know you need an improved ground strap...make sure you are getting at least 12v to the coil with the ignition in the on position...if you have an electrical multitester I can give you the specs for checking coil resistance
You may want to check valve clearance, I had the same issue and ajusting the valves made a difference. If you are looking for any van parts, I have quite a few I want to sell cheep. Air Filters, door handles, lights and more
Could I get the specs for the multitesters and could you explain how to check for coil resistance? Thanks!
I must sound stupid but do you check the ignition coil that goes over the spark plug the same way as the directions on that paper for ignition coils with spark plug wires? This is all new and learning as we go. Thanks
HHMm the specs on that may be different...you must have individual coils...you say there is spark and that it runs well warm..usually a bad coil will die when it gets hot...as 1albee said give the valves a check..it's very possible they are the issue...it could also be timing,ignitor,or plug wires...did you check the engine ground?
Got the cover off timing belt now. How would we go about checking & setting it? There is a cut & paint mark on crank shaft pulley assembly that we are guessing you line up to the timing belt cover that has a pointer with 2 lines in it. We can't find anything to line up the cam shaft side. There is a factory hole in one of the teeth on the cam shaft pulley that we are assuming you line up to ......what we have no clue.The iginition coils do not have plug wires to them. The coil just goes over top of each spark plug, there are 3 of them. Ground wires is good.
timing is done from the rear of the engine...on top of the bellhousing between the engine and transmission is a rubber plug around 2 inches long...under it is the timing marks.... I was assuming the coil packs had some type of plug boot (wires was the wrong word for it..apologies) that comes off the coil and snaps onto the plug ...usually that part is replaceable like a plug wire...
ok found timing marks there was a circle indention w/ white paint over it and also one with pink paint. Not sure which one to use they are fairly close together. still working on that, not sure how to hook timing light up to it since no plug wires......how would we go about that with it having a "plug boot"? Did cold compression test and got readings of (front #2) 105, (middle#3) 90 & (Back #4)50. Then did cold compression test w/ oil squirted in cylinder and got (front #2) 117, (middle #3)107 & (back #4)70. What do you make of that? You think it's rings, head gasket or valves? Couldn't get it to start at the time of doing compression test so no "hot" readings. Was able to pull start but was to dark to mess with after that. Here's a pic ....any idea where valves are? Can't find rocker either. This is like nothing we've seen.
I think those are bucket and shim valves...the cam lobes press straight down onto the bucket that sits over the valve...either adjusted by shim on the top of the valve bucket or it is hydraulic (doubtful) I believe I have valve specs on your engine on my netbook at work...I'll check it tomorrow night...that being said either the valves are tighter than a gnats ass or you have worn rings for the compression to be that low...my bet is rings especially since the compression improved with oil in the cylinders...
The valve arrangement looks very similar to the Suzuki I'm working on. You can see the shim sitting on top of the bucket (the cam lobe acts on the shim). I bet they make a tool that holds the bucket down so the shim can be slid out. Have you checked your valve clearance? Intake should be around .010 and exhaust around .014. If you have low compression could be due to tight valves. If you can get your hands on a leak down tester it will help you figure out where your loss of compression is. If you can hear air excaping back at the tail pipe its exhaust valves, if its excaping to the airbox it's intake valves, if you hear air in the oil fill cap it's rings. You can get a leak down tester at Harbor Freight. .
Intake clearance for this motor is 7 thousandths and the exhaust is 12 thousandths...Contrary to popular belief changing the shim size to gain the clearance needed is only a temporary fix, what is more likely to be a long term solution is to replace the valves themselves along with the shims. To go one farther when we have a tight valve situation on a head we almost always replace the entire head with a rebuilt one as that is nearly as cost effective as replacing the individual pieces.
Well a K6A head tends to be more expensive because they are a much newer engine and as such there are fewer of them available, I have 2 on hand and we sell those for 750.00 a piece. The daihatsu heads tend to be less expensive but I dont have one on hand so I cant say for certain how much but I'd guess around 550.00 or so!!
Rebuilt with new valves, there is a core charge unless you send your head first. Cams are included as well so Cams are part of the core.
Hmmm - I just picked up a 93' diahatsu hijet with the same issue. Has trouble starting could, but once it's run once in the day it's great for the rest of the day. I've been roll starting it in the morning . It was recommended I perhaps install a new fuel pump (or even an accelerator pump) if the feed line doesn't look like it's putting out much fuel when the engine is being turned over. They also recommended cleaning the connections inside the dist. cap. looking forward to seeing how this is solved!
