I have a 91 suzuki carry that i recently came into ownership of and have put quite a bit of time into getting it up and running. My problem currently is that it overheats, which I have tried to remedy by: flushing the coolant system adding water wetter pulling out the thermostat the check and see if it works (I heated it up in water on stove and it opened when water boiled) replacing it and bleeding the air out of the system Cleaning the radiator Installing a manual fan on switch Lowering the idle rpms with adjustment screw I have felt the hoses going in and out of the engine and both feel pressurized but not necessarily like fluid is flowing. The hose on the bottom of the mini does not seem to collapse but it does have slight bends in the S that I dont love. Now the details of it overheating currently are that it will overheat in idle "at the moment", which i say because I drove it almost 10 miles two days ago and it didn't start to overheat until the last 4, but currently the temperature will come down to about half SOMETIMES after it gets around very hot on the gauge but then will heat up again. I pulled off the radiator cap once to watch it flow and it seems to spurt out periodically. I have also watched the fluid reservoir and it spurts into that as well when running and kind of circulates back. Right now I am going to go take out the thermostat to see if it will run cool for extended periods of time in which case I will get a new thermostat. Thanks for all your help in advance guys, Gabe
I'm having the exact same problems with my 93, going to try thermostat first because it's the cheapest. I drove about for hours without it overheating but soon as i stopped it would spike up. Weird problem. Keep me updated, and i will do the same.
sounds like the water pump has a crapped out impeller...can't push sufficiently at low rpm...that is as long as you have for certain bled the air from the cooling system...sometimes it's rather tough to get all the air out...did you bleed it with the heater on hot?? the heater valve needs to be open when bleeding or air will be trapped in the heater core
you need a new rad. I had overheating over 80km/h. Changed t-stat, coolant, pump (previous owner), when I yanked out the old one, it was over 90% blocked. I had it rebuilt for $190 with a dual core rad (tab header) I think it was an LOP64 or 68, can't remember. Multi radiator service on MacNaughton road in Moncton did it for me. It was 1/8" taller than stock but I had no problem fitting it in. they will do mail order rebuild if you need. It no longer overheats. I don't even think it knows what that means anymore! good luck.
Figured out my problem, stick went through the rad and jammed the rad fan and the motor kept spinning so all the teeth on the fan are gone.. The fan was just hanging there, also the belt for the fan broke off lol.. Anyone have cross references for these parts?
Your fan motor was strong enough to break the blades off? I had some similar troubles but i'm fairly certain it was my fan motor that went out. I would drive it and as the coolant cycled through the system my temp would spike then go down when my thermostat opened up. I would get out and check and my fan wouldn't be spinning even though it was clearly hot enough.
It sounds like a problem I had. Mine turned out to be a bad head gasket causing the coolant system to pressure up. I hope that isn't what is wrong with your's because it's a big deal.
91 Suzuki Carry DB51t Overheating - Cross Referenced Parts Mine just overheated this week. The small hose that connects the thermostat housing to the manifold ruptured. This caused coolant to spray out which actually pushed the #1 spark plug wire off. I thought it was the thermostat before I disassembled the center console area and got a good look. I replaced everything but the lower radiator outlet hose since I had access the items below easily. The center console is easy to loosen. Then just prop up the front. I used a spray can. The OEM upper radiator hose is $60-$90 + shipping but I was able to find one at NAPA (Part 9464) $20. I just had to cut 1/2" off the long end. I also needed new hose clamps since the NAPA hose is thicker and better quality than the OEM. The thermostat to manifold tiny hose I found at O'reilly which was $25 (Gates 18453). I cut 1/2" off of both ends and I also needed to use new hose clamps. Thermostat recommended and tried by G&R was O’reilly - Murray 3848 which ws $7. The gasket - O’reilly - MotoRad 2167 was $3. The new radiator cap (Napa 703-1695) was $11. Filling and Bleeding the coolant: There is a small 10mm bleed bolt next to the thermostat on the manifold. I tried to loosen mine but it wasn't budging and I thought for sure I was going to break off the head of the bolt. Instead I push the truck onto a 40 degree incline with the front up. This was the radiator was the highest part. I then filled the radiator and overflow. Ran the truck for 10 minutes until the temperature gauge stopped rising and stayed just over 1/4. Let cool for 15 minutes and opened the radiator cap. There was only 1 bubble. I then drove for 10 minutes and the temp gauge was the same but the engine and radiator was definitely hotter. I let it cool while parked on the 40 degree incline for 30 minutes. Opened radiator cap and there were several bubbles. I repeated this one more time. I then checked to see if the heater put out hot air and it did. Spark plug issue - because the hose rupture dumped coolant into the #1 spark plug hole it was full of coolant and that plug and plug cap were not working properly. I blew out the coolant completely then removed the plugs, and replaced all 3. I also blew out and cleaned the cap end. NOTE: I called G&R Imports to order the thermostat and radiator cap but they instead gave me the NAPA and O'reilly part numbers for my specific Mini Truck. This is AWESOME they totally could have made some money off of me but choose to just help me out. I've purchased tires from them before and will continue to work with them. Parts Cross Referenced & Replaced - 1991 Suzuki Carry DB51T Upper radiator hose - Napa 9464 (cut ½” off long end) Thermostat to manifold hose - O'reilly - Gates 18453 (cut ½” off both end) Thermostat - O’reilly - Murray 3848 Thermostat gasket - O’reilly - MotoRad 2167 Radiator Cap - Napa 703-1695 Napa 50/50 green radiator coolant. Spark Plugs: NGK Standard Copper Spark Plug 3932 I still will eventually need to replace the lower radiator outlet hose. That one is just an elbow so it should be easy to take it to NAPA and find something that will work. The NAPA and Gates hoses I used are of far better quality that the OEM, much thicker and stiffer. Hopefully this helps someone else.
MB has a process for de-calcifying cooling systems, using a citric acid [10% solution, I think] and demineralized water and an easily available small bag of the acid. The length of the process varies and is a judgement call, before a neutralizing rinse follows. Surely, this would follow other simpler work, perhaps a professionally cleaned radiator. I had success doing this in a high power Corvette, when over the counter flush products proved to be a waste of time and money. Heat transfer is impeded on all surfaces, including head and cylinder water jackets. A look inside the radiator is a simple indication of the severity. During my MB cure, I learned from BeCool engineers, to never run without a thermostat, as it acts as a variable control of coolant flow, not as an on/off device.
