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Still no idle

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by rst277, Jul 11, 2011.

  1. rst277

    rst277 Member

    Hijet still won't idle. I have searched and read I don't know how long/much..... Maybe the slow jet is plugged??? I replaced the plugs and wires, am waiting on cap and rotor and can't find any vacuum leaks. Starting to despair. The plugs were pretty black, probably from the Seafoam? Maybe its running rich??? I am taking a break from it. R
     
  2. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    you checked out your air intake system right?
     
  3. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    If the plugs are black it's running rich for sure...will it idle with the air filter box unhooked?
     
  4. rst277

    rst277 Member

    It will not idle with or without the air filter attached. There are 2 vac hoses that go up into the bottom of the air cleaner assembly that have flapper valves is the best description and they won't hold vacuum pressure. Took the main line from top of engine off and engine ran worse........There are 2 "T" connectors under the air filter housing, one to the winter flap on top and the others head back to I don't know what. I tried pinching the hoses to see if any improvements but nothing seemed to change. Are those flappers leaky?

    Air intake should be fine. I have been running the K&N filter for about a month.

    Thanks guys, Ralph
     
  5. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    choke open wide? put vice grips on the rubber fuel line before or after fuel pump and crank, if it starts and runs good for short time is rich for sure. then we go further.
     
  6. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    if you dirve it double footed how much power is there?

    also did you try to turn up the idle?
     
  7. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan Guest

    It could be the idle stop solenoid. It's the part with 2 wires going to it on top of the carb, just beside the arrow in Fupabox's post here; http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=11426

    It's easy to test just unscrew it, you have to remove the wires from the plug, you have to slide a small flat screwdriver in the end to release the clip, or purchase a tool for undoing the connectors, once you have it out just apply 12v to the wires, doesn't matter which is positive, and watch and listen for the plunger to move in and out, if there is no clicking then it's toast.

    You can carefully cut the cap off and drill to take the plunger out, seal it and put it back in. The truck will idle but you may experience run on when you shut the engine off.


    Bill
     
  8. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    It could be junk inside the carb, needle valve, clogged jet. Might need a carb. kit. I would check your timing for grins.
    Was the truck running fine then it started this or has this been a issue for sometime?
    How many kms? What year is it?
    I will say I have had less carb. problems with Daihatsu's than other makes.
     
  9. rst277

    rst277 Member

    I have checked everything else, so the problem is in the carb. I pulled the idle stop solenoid and it is functioning properly. I did manage to remove (with some difficulty!) the slow jet, it wasn't plugged but the plastic sleeve moved around. I am waiting on a carb kit and then I will pull the carb and rebuild it. Thanks all, Ralph.
     
  10. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    hi, if you have taken the float cover off then you have loosened the gasket that covers the idle jet itself. The gasket is a rectangle outline gasket with 3 screw holes in it and a little wider part near the center of the carb. If you take this gasket off the carb you will see the idle jet itself. If you dont seal the gasket well around the jet area enough when you put it together then air will get into the idle jet instead of it sucking gas from the float bowl. Small area around idle jet MUST be sealed but dont gook up the jet itself or same results, no idle. You can also take out the idle jet to clean it. tom
     
  11. rst277

    rst277 Member

    Thanks for the tips. I just pulled the carb off and cleaned the exterior so no gunk gets inside. Rebuild kit finally arrived from Westshore.

    Tom are you saying I should put some sealant on the gasket? The information I am working from is still suspect until proven correct.

    Thanks again, I'm back in the shop now!

    But I'll check in an hour when I break for lunch so keep those tips coming!!
     
  12. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    Im saying that under the float bowl gasket is a gold jet right near the gasket , make sure its gasket is good right by the jet or sealent used if not. If there is an air leak there it will not idle. That jet gets its gas from drawing it up from the fuel bowl and it wont draw right if it leaks air into jet.
    The gasket im talking about is the small one with 3 screws that is under the cover to get to the float.
    The main jet is in the float bowl and it screws in and has wires on it, the idle jet is at the top of the float bowl right near the top gasket.
    If the idle jet gets any air it just cant draw gas up and out of the float bowl right and strange things happen. If you end up with an engine that runs rich when you are driving then check the tiny o ring on the very end of the main jet, faster speeds suck in more gas if the o ring is bad or gone. Been there done that! tom=Midget 2
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011
  13. rst277

    rst277 Member

    Well the good news is I rebuilt the carb and there are no pieces left over and no fluids leaking out after running the truck for a bit. The truck is idling but still stalls when you put the clutch in at a stop sign if you're not quick on the gas. I will pull a spark plug tomorrow and check the color, could just be lean. I will play with the idle mixture screw and idle speed and see if I find the magic combination. Ralph
     
  14. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    its a lot easier to find out if your lean or rich by closing the choke while someone is keeping it running. Let it slow down as much as you can and still keep it running and close choke some to see if its better or worse. If better then its lean, if worse then its rich. tom= midget 2
     
  15. blakkmoon

    blakkmoon Member

  16. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    It sounds now like you just need to up the idle speed.
     
  17. rst277

    rst277 Member

    I will play around with it. I am renovating so I have a number of short runs to Rona and back so I can make small adjustments and see if there is an improvement. Thanks for the tip re: choke Tom!

    Blakkmoon, I checked that link and the price is great but the minimum order is 100 carbs! You want to go halfers????

    R
     
  18. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    that carb on Alibaba is for the upright ef 660 engine..unfortunately not a fit on the Hijet manifold,and has a few different vacuum fittings...could prob be adapted somehow
     
  19. blakkmoon

    blakkmoon Member


    So sorry
    I tend to surf with 15 different browser windows ( tabs ) open at once
    I surf in soundbites


    I don't know what kind of card you need EXACTLY

    |But this may be a good starting point

    And MAYBE you could get info on a dealer who COULD get the right one

    Just trying to help a little

    a quick search on alibabba revealed...
    http://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?SearchText=Carburetor+for+Daihatsu+Hijet&CatId=0&IndexArea=product_en&fsb=y&sq=y&tracelog=detail__direct_0914

    so maybe from there you could find the right one
    and from there maybe a few emails might get you a dealer ???

    just a thot
    I dont get em often
     
  20. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    Blackmoon...it's a great find on the carbs..they make carbs for other hijet models (UK version)like I said the upright EF660 carb is different ,but if they can produce one they can just as easily do the other...who want's to go into the Hijet carb business:)
     
  21. rst277

    rst277 Member

    I have been playing around with the idle speed and mixture screw today with no real success. After re-checking the fuel.pdf I had mistaken the large knurled screw beside the idle speed screw as mixture! Now that I look at it, it seems obvious that the screw must control throttle as it is on the throttle shaft. (too many fumes, over thinking the problem!>?!?) I have the idle and throttle set and now I'm adjusting the mixture screw. So far, the truck will idle for a minute and then die off. Same for when you let up on the gas pedal - stallage. I feel I am getting somewhere though! Ralph
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2011
  22. rst277

    rst277 Member

    So the truck idled for about 5 minutes and kept idling after gunning the engine a few times so I went for a drive. Yup, stalled at the first lights. I think I am going to try turning up the throttle a bit but does this part, top right with 2 wires, of the carb have anything to do with the idle? The rebuild kit had no parts for this. It is on a branch from the idle stop solenoid which I put power to and it works. I put the same power to this and no sound at all. Important??
     
  23. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    not sure which part you are referring to...got a pic?
     
  24. rst277

    rst277 Member

    Here it is under my finger. Has a white and black wire that shares a connector (green) with the idle stop solenoid. I am taking one more kick at it today and then.............

    R
     

    Attached Files:

  25. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    I think that's the "idle up" for A/C equipped vehicles
     
  26. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    if this engine has a carb and that part has wires it should click.
     
  27. rst277

    rst277 Member

    The part in question has a diaphram, so nothing to click but perhaps it has something to do with vacuum.

    Robbie G came over with his truck but the carb is a little different since his truck is a 4 speed - still the same engine just pushed back a bit.

    My truck will idle but very high and the idle mixture screw makes no real difference. Truck is running very rich.

    Two thoughts: The pdf I printed from this site states the float should be 14.6mm. I had to move the float 3-4mm down to achieve that number - could that be making it run rich?

    I haven't checked the points - could that be making it run rough?

    Thanks, Ralph
     
  28. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    that would definitely make it overfuel....that adjustment is made with the float upside down...by lowering the float it makes the float bowl fill more before the needle valve closes..so your float bowl would be overfull
     
  29. starpuss

    starpuss Member

    did you check the timing? (timing belt.) may of jumped.

    i still say it's a vacuum leak , did you put a vacuum pump on it?

    also i had a 1994 dakota that did 100% the same thing and it was the EGR that was messed up. (you can take the vacuum line off it and block it to find out .
     
  30. oldoldoldman

    oldoldoldman Member

    you can test the vacuum lines by pinching them with pliers by each fitting to see if makes any difference, this will temporally stop any leak.
     

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