Hey. I could use a little help. My '88 'Zuki started making a bit of a whining sound behind engine when clutch pedal was being depressed. Engaged - no whine. Disengaged - no whine. Next thing I know, transmission will not shift into gear when clutch pedal depressed to floor. Vehicle will start in gear and move (I just have to cut off switch before I bust through garage wall). Clutch cable and all is good. Bellcrank into clutch housing seems to have a bit of play in it. My best guess - throwout bearing is shot and needs replaced. Any info you have about dropping transmission would be appreciated. Also, could use a recommendation about finding a source for the throwout bearing. Thanks for your time and trouble. Good site full of good people with good tips about these little animals that sort of preoccupy us. Have a good one!
To 'pull' the transmission is an easy two-man job. If you can run the front wheels up on ramps, that is all the clearance you need. Remove the plate in the bed for access to the cable linkages and the top of the tranny housing. Your helper can man-handle the tranny from the top, while you work the bottom. The nice thing about these trucks, is that the components are relatively light. The cables can be removed without altering the settings. And any vacuum lines and electrical can remain connected as well. As you can get at the t-bearing just by sliding the tranny back 7 to 8 inches. You'll have to remove the driveshafts at the axle ends, no need to pull the u-joints, there is a flange you can unbolt. The slipjoint is within the output splines of the t-case. The most difficult part of the process is getting things properly lined up to get the bolts started when re-installing. I also had a noisy throw-out bearing, it turned out it was dry, and the rollers felt good when spun by hand, so I merely re-packed it with grease and re-installed. Make sure you note the positioning of all the parts as you remove them. Note that EVERYTHING is metric on these little guys. Good luck. I think I'm going to be tackling another one this weekend. But I do believe this one will need a new bearing....I'm hoping to find one in town at one of the auto or industrial supply stores.
"Speedy" Help Thanks a million guys. Chad had a response almost immediately and Speedy gave me enough tips that I'm confident that I am up to the task at hand. I use the Zuki as a farm vehile for my stable and have found it to be a tough and reliable friend, especially on those days when the temp is a 4 degrees with a twenty MPH wind from the northwest. Beats the heck out of using the atv and pulling a trailer. If any of you other contributers have tips, I would welcome them. dutchman
I ronically I read this post earlier, then went to move my Suzuki (which is "sold/spoken for") ...havent started it in about 3 weeks. The clutch is not working. The linkage and clutch arm are moving. It was fine when I drove it last. No clutch noise, no clutch slippage ever. Truck will start in gear, clutch feels normal, but doesnt do anything. I'm not a clutch guy at all...whats wrong? Could it possibly be froze (i.e. ice) inside where the clutch is? I just think its odd no problems at all, parked it, now clutch doesnt work. Its been raining, snow, ice for a couple weeks......?...
Have a reuse pump that works the same. Try this if you want. Put in gear, hold the clutch, hold the brake and try to start. Or safer, get a friend and have them rock the vehicle with the clutch pedal pushed in and the the trany in gear. The clutch plate could stick to the pressure plate. The clutch plate is splined to the transmission input shaft. There is clearance to allow one to move independent of the other with the clutch pedal in but if the friction material is stuck it will act as if the clutch pedal is released.
Well, I just now got my truck figured out...and wow... im searching the threads looking for info on where the best place to buy a clutch kit for my truck...and I stumbled upon the thread....and cant believe the date on my post....wow time flies... Anyways, it appears that my clutch disc stuck to the pressure plate....??? I have read this several times on this site...of that problem with Suzuki's doing that.... So, I'm not sure where the best place is to buy a clutch kit.?? 1993 Suzuki / model - DD51B - 200024 My clutch disc is maybe 1/16th of an inch thick??? Still has grooves visible... What is the stock/factory thickness???
I bought my clutch assembly from G&R but they were significantly more expensive than Chad Hite. I don't remember the thickness of the new clutch disc (DARN - I was thinking about putting the micrometer on the new disc!), but I think I remember the grooves being about 1/16 or 3/32" deep (or was it 1/8"??) My truck has less than 11,000 miles and the original disc was really okay but I replaced the pressure plate/bearing/disc anyway since I had the tranny pulled away from the engine. I had my clutch disc rust to the flywheel, so that was the reason for unbolting the tranny. When/if you pull the tyranny, be advised all of the transmission fluid will drain out the rear when you pull out the rear drive shaft - that was a bit of a surprise to me. Reattachment of the tranny to the engine was a bear - I used a long woodworking clamp to pull the tranny into the engine after making everything was lined up.
Ok here is my issue, I have a 95 Suzuki Carry. when in neutral and I release the clutch, it whines. When I depress it, the whine goes away. I seen an earlier post with a similar issue. The next and new issue is I can not engage it the entire way into reverse, it feels as if it is in and if I feather the clutch lightly it will go backwards on a flat surface. Once clutch is released it grinds and pops out of gear. This has all happened within the first month of owning my truck, it's in great condition with very low miles, I just want to get it into the woods!
My Sambar tranny is noisey in nuetral like you describe. Does you Carry use cables to connect the shifter to the tranny? If yes then I would start there and see if it is free running, it might take two people one to shift one to observe. It could be a case of the reverse cable not getting the lever on the tranny moved far enough to engage properly. This would result in it popping out the first time torque was applied.
My '90 Carry uses cables to move the shift levers. Yes - be sure your levers are lining up & operating properly. Check the easiest things first.
Have you checked the oil level in the transmission? From the way they are piggy-backed in the containers for shipping, oil can seep out of the rear of the transmission. The reason it stops when you step on the clutch is that through-shaft stops turning, nothing moving, no noise. Release the clutch, whether in neutral or in gear, you get noise. Gears and bearings are not being lubed.
Thanks for the ideas! I tried to manual in the reverse lever and I had the same symptoms. I had the top of the Transmision open where the shifting levers are attached. it looks as if the oil level is half way up the case. What should the level be. Sorry about all the questions, I am a brand new owner here and very excited about getting it going!
Did you try to "manual in the reverse lever" with the cable detached? I'm sure somebody with a zuki will know the right answer but as a general rule most trannys have a fill plug and a seperate drain plug. The correct level is usually to the fill plug with the correct fluid.
Yes I did have the cable off when I tried this. I am just hoping that this doesn't turn into a major and or expensive fix! I have to get back under it and check for the fill plug. I am assuming it may help with the throwout bearing being lubed but skeptical on the reverse issue.
Technically the the "throwout" bearing is outside the tranny in the bellhousing where it pushes directly on the clutch. I am thinking you would be refering to the input shaft bearings that spin while truck running in neutral. I would also check the throw on the first gear lever as well. To get reverse on tranny it is engaged in first gear internally and has a "idler" gear that is engaged as well which changes the direction of the output shaft.
