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GOLIATH...the drift Sambar BUILD THREAD

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by WELDER, Apr 13, 2010.

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  1. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    It is your guys with your compliments that keeps me going! :D
     
  2. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    "It is your guys with your compliments that keeps me going! "

    You look awful purdy in them jeans....oh wait , you mean comments about the build..keep up the good work:p
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2010
  3. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    Hahaha.

    Now I HAVE to get it done :p
     
  4. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    Just a wee update:

    I ran into a small issue with the stock fuel pump feeding the TBI. The stock pump is a "pump-on-demand" style thing, for the carb'd setup. With a fuel injection setup, I needed one that constantly pumps fuel, rather than a "vacuum activated" one. So I bought a new drag racing pump :D

    Unfortunately, the engine is pumping out a lot of oil through the exhaust. I have no idea what the problem is, and it is a major hick-up in my plan. It could be a PCV valve that is stuck, worn valve guide seals, worn or blown piston rings, blown head gasket, etc.

    On a positive note, I've decided to design and fab a tonneau cover, using 1/8" aluminum checker plate :pop:

    I will finish the truck, so people, anyone know which sponsor will provide engine rebuild parts?

    Thanks boys and girls. :D
     
  5. renchjeep

    renchjeep Member

    WOW, nice build! Looking forward to hearing/seeing it run! One question, though. Do you find that crimp terminals are reliable enough to not only transmit the proper power, but also maintain integrity during hard use of the vehicle? There are a LOT of wires in your build, and I would imagine a bad connection on certain wires would cause a real problem. I love using crimp terminals for simple lighting connections, but I like to use solder terminals for more "sensitive" electronic connections. Recently, I have started using crimp terminals with heat-shrink ends for "simple" wiring, and they make me feel better about keeping a good, watertight, corrosion-free connection.

    As I said, one BADASS build! Can't wait for the videos! Would like to hear your thoughts/experiences with crimp connectors, though.
     
  6. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    Good point, after a wiring failure on my old car I switched to soldering EVERYTHING because nothing sucks more than having to check every single one of your wiring connections when you get stranded somewhere. Better to do it right and solid the first time.
     
  7. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I couldn't agree more. I wanted to get it started before going any further with body modifications, and electrical setup. Afteri started a few times, I saved my setup in Megatune (Megasquirt tuning software), and befan hacking everything out. I am too cheap to buy the $300 heatshrink tubing kit, so I will use the same crimp connectors I used int he first stage of wiring, but slip a chunk of heatshrink over each one; which will help fight both corrosion and the wires pulling apart from vibration.

    My battery is now going to be mounted in the box, behind the cab, ont he driver's side. This will make for a MUCH cleaner setup.
     
  8. renchjeep

    renchjeep Member

    OK, cool;)! I just experienced an "available voltage" prob with my 94 Pontiac Bonneville. Had a "rebuilt" by NAPA alternator on my Bonnie for 2 years or so, and it never really charged like I would like to see. 12.8-13.1 volts. Recently, the alt failed altogether, and I replaced it with another NAPA unit, NEW this time, and my voltmeter now reads 13.8-14.2+! Driveability is much increased, and I no longer have the "dead spot" in the throttle, which I thought was a TPS problem. I had already replaced the TPS twice, and I was still getting TPS and EGR codes on the scanner. Next was the EGR, at a cost of $180.00! Available voltage-----like I was taught years ago----and promptly forgot----means a LOT to computers! Just food for thought.

    Damn black boxes....................:(
     
  9. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    That brings to mind a mod I have seen done but never tried..it's called "earthing" (honestly)..you run several good grounds from the neg battery terminal to all the important areas of your vehicle IE: ecu ground, alternator ground,main lighting,distributer, etc....supposedly the uninterupted grounding gives a better spark and allows the alternator to work better...seems plausible as most electrical faults are usually ground problems.... Only takes a few yards of 10 gauge wire and some time..I may give it a shot...
    Not trying to jack the thread but thought the info might be appreciated on your build with all the wiring.
     
  10. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    No apology necessary, any and all tech is welcome in this thread.

    I my entire electrical setup is "earthed" as you say. The battery acts as a capacitor, which smooths out the voltage. The injector for instance, doesn't do well with voltage drop, even though Mega Squirt does take care of some of this drop, the less the better.

    Good info so far boys :D
     
  11. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    Well...Finally working on the little guy again. I've been oh-so busy with work and other trucks.

    I got it started before and it ran for a few seconds each time. The problem was the fuel pump (I hope). I now have the new fuel pump in, and redid all my wiring. The wiring looks much cleaner now :)

    The only big issue I am having is the large amount of thick, black, sludge-like oil in the exhaust pipe.

    I believe the problem is that my scavenger pump for the turbo dumps the scavenged oil into the valve cover. Without taking the valve cover off, I can guess that the valve seals aren't able to cope with the large amounts of oil being dumped on them.

    Once I get MS tuned again and the engine started without the turbo or oil being dumped into the valve cover, I will see if it is still pumping oul the sludge. If not, then I will re-route the scavenge's dump line to the oil pan.

    I'll get a vid of it running when I'm back to that point.

    Welder
     
  12. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    You should ALWAYS route the oil back to the oil pan... otherwise you'll be burning oil like a mofo!
     
  13. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    This was aware of. After a bit of research, and finding articles like this http://www.junkyardturbos.com/Turbocharger-Oiling-Systems.php, I figured I would give it a try.

    I doubt any permanent damage was done, so it should be fired back up by this weekend. Just some buttoning up to do :)

    I bought a netbook to mount in the cab, so I can monitor and f*ck with MS while driving :)

    Welder
     
  14. Acerguy

    Acerguy Moderator Staff Member

    We're watching! :pop:
     
  15. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I got my netbook all set up with the tuning software. New little problem. I can't get a tach signal now. I will go over my wiring, then check my dist. again. It may be my VR sensor.

    Anyone know some part numbers for a new dist.?

    Thanks.
     
  16. o8k

    o8k Member

    That setup looks like you have lots and lots of pipe volume. Hows the turbo lag?
     
  17. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I don't think the pipe volume is extreme at all. The A/R numbers on the turbo, pumping through only 2" tube, with only 180 degrees of turns...compared to lots of factory setups, seems pretty damn direct to me.

    I don't know how the lag is, since I haven't run it with the boost controller open yet:p
     
  18. o8k

    o8k Member

    Volume is two dimensions (2" dia * legnth). It was the other dimension i was refering to. Sounds like you've done your home work tho, i was just curious.
     
  19. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    My turbo is totally hybridized, so it will spool like a raped-ape AND produce good boost numbers.

    Thanks for making sure I have my sh*t right.

    Update:

    I installed my new air horn... it is uncomfortably loud.

    Also, I got it running. Maybe I'll have a video by the weekend:pop:
     
  20. Colin

    Colin Member

    How's this build going?

    I've been fairly absent around here, but as a Sambar owner and a Megasquirt user (on my other car,) I was pleased to see this when I came by for my semi-annual visit. :pop:

    (I'm in the planning stages of a RWD EJ22 swap... actually, it's been sitting all mocked up for a year or so. It's very much on the back burner right now, but I'll probably blow on it with a Holset and run it on Megasquirt. No particular goal other than a ridiculous little truck that does wheelies. :D)
     
  21. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I have redone my wiring, but it is also on the back burner for now. The 1 ton and some other things are priorities in terms of builds right now :D

    I will try to get going on it once the crew cab is done.
     
  22. Colin

    Colin Member

    Gotcha. What's the story with the 1-ton? [​IMG]
     
  23. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    86 k30 3+3 (crew cab).

    -4" springs

    -X-over steering

    -46" military meats wrapped around 20x9 wheels

    -tube bed

    -roof rack

    -6BT 12v Cummins swap, you know what I mean, I read your sig. :p

    I'll put a small build thread on pirate4x4 is a couple weeks.
     
  24. Colin

    Colin Member

    Nice - I love those 3+3s.

    Those 46s seem like a lot of tire for a 4" lift - are you adding more blocks or doing any sheetmetal trimming? Then again, I've got 37x12.5x16.5s on my truck with just a cheapo 2" levelling kit. Party on! :D
     
  25. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    its hard to find a 3+3 that isnt rusted out :(
     
  26. Colin

    Colin Member

  27. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I'm not into building mall crawlers with 8" lifts to clear 38's :D. I am trimming the fenders a bunch. No blocks or body lifts, it is a real truck. Haha.
     
  28. Colin

    Colin Member

    Good, I figured as much. :D
     
  29. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    little height or little low is okay but extremes are too much for me :D


    was thinking to. this "drift" sambar. how well would it be at the drag races to? if the truck runs constant it would be awesome in bracket racing
     
  30. WELDER

    WELDER Member

    I am going to tune it into a drift/auto-cross killer. Because all the steering is so simple, tuning it with cnc parts will be a pinch. I will get it on the road before too much of that though.
     
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